Dedicated Touchscreen Android setup using OEM screen
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Dedicated Touchscreen Android setup using OEM screen
This is my master plan. I want to have a dedicated android device that does not leave the vehicle. The power switch would be wired to the accessory power of the car so that when the car is started, the android device starts to boot.
Using the PAC VCI-NIS2, I will be able to display the video from the android device using a physical toggle switch. This is the unit used for the backup camera as well. The backup camera switches on automatically with the PAC unit. This part is well documented.
To get the touchscreen portion to work, I will use an overlay screen on top of the OEM screen to take the input. The input will be sent to the MIMCSx2 Module which transmits the input to the android device via Bluetooth.
In theory, I don't see any major hurdles that cannot be overcome. So far I've purchased the following components for the project:
PAC VCI-NIS2
ViewHD Universal HDMI to Composite
Backup Camera
Rear OEM spoiler with camera cutout
Components that I still need to purchase:
Toggle switch
Android device
MimicsX2 Module
Touch screen overlay (if anyone has installed one or has any suggestions)
Here is a cheap diagram of the setup.
Using the PAC VCI-NIS2, I will be able to display the video from the android device using a physical toggle switch. This is the unit used for the backup camera as well. The backup camera switches on automatically with the PAC unit. This part is well documented.
To get the touchscreen portion to work, I will use an overlay screen on top of the OEM screen to take the input. The input will be sent to the MIMCSx2 Module which transmits the input to the android device via Bluetooth.
In theory, I don't see any major hurdles that cannot be overcome. So far I've purchased the following components for the project:
PAC VCI-NIS2
ViewHD Universal HDMI to Composite
Backup Camera
Rear OEM spoiler with camera cutout
Components that I still need to purchase:
Toggle switch
Android device
MimicsX2 Module
Touch screen overlay (if anyone has installed one or has any suggestions)
Here is a cheap diagram of the setup.
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I sent an email to CustomGadz to ask about compatibility with an android stick or CM based ROM's, or any device not listed as 'supported'. I wanted to try and determine what the requirements were, and It seems as though almost any device will work as long as it is running compatible software. Here's the response I got:
Hi,
Do you mean you want to use the mimics with a android stick running AndroidOS as opposed to a phone or tablet? If this is the case then it should work. As long as the android stick doesn't have a severely stripped down version of the OS then you shouldn't have an issue. Haven't seen a decent performing android stick yet (well compared to a phone anyway)
4.0/4.1 CYANOGEN MOD and AOKP work fine with mimics.
If you need any more info let us know.
__
Based on this response and for the sake of a device with adequate hardware, I've decided to just buy a Droid Razr and just tear it down to the motherboard. It has a dedicated micro hdmi output, so that leaves the usb power directly to the phone. I do not plan to have a battery with the device, since I want it to die as soon as there is power loss. Unlike a computer, there is no HDD, so there are no moving parts that need to be "parked".
I've ordered a "MOMENTARY PUSH BUTTON SWITCH" from ebay which I want to run to the motherboard of the Razr. This will give me remote access to the power button, should the automatic start mechanism fail during ignition of the car. I expect that it may from time to time due to randomness, cold weather, etc. I've seen carputers in the past with this problem. This will give me an override, should I need it. It's essentially the only 'button' on the phone that ever needs to be pressed anyway, so it will just be good to have around. This will be mounted above the toggle switch for the VCI-NIS2 located here:
Picture of the leads on the motherboard of my old broken Droid Incredible 1. Should be an easy solder I hope.
Front
Back
I also asked about shipping since it is slated for "end of october" and got this back:
Hi,
Shipping is expected at the end of the month which is really soon. We are just waiting on the cable harness to arrive. Shouldn't be too much longer.
Regards,
Hi,
Do you mean you want to use the mimics with a android stick running AndroidOS as opposed to a phone or tablet? If this is the case then it should work. As long as the android stick doesn't have a severely stripped down version of the OS then you shouldn't have an issue. Haven't seen a decent performing android stick yet (well compared to a phone anyway)
4.0/4.1 CYANOGEN MOD and AOKP work fine with mimics.
If you need any more info let us know.
__
Based on this response and for the sake of a device with adequate hardware, I've decided to just buy a Droid Razr and just tear it down to the motherboard. It has a dedicated micro hdmi output, so that leaves the usb power directly to the phone. I do not plan to have a battery with the device, since I want it to die as soon as there is power loss. Unlike a computer, there is no HDD, so there are no moving parts that need to be "parked".
I've ordered a "MOMENTARY PUSH BUTTON SWITCH" from ebay which I want to run to the motherboard of the Razr. This will give me remote access to the power button, should the automatic start mechanism fail during ignition of the car. I expect that it may from time to time due to randomness, cold weather, etc. I've seen carputers in the past with this problem. This will give me an override, should I need it. It's essentially the only 'button' on the phone that ever needs to be pressed anyway, so it will just be good to have around. This will be mounted above the toggle switch for the VCI-NIS2 located here:
Picture of the leads on the motherboard of my old broken Droid Incredible 1. Should be an easy solder I hope.
Front
Back
I also asked about shipping since it is slated for "end of october" and got this back:
Hi,
Shipping is expected at the end of the month which is really soon. We are just waiting on the cable harness to arrive. Shouldn't be too much longer.
Regards,
Cool man. What's a "stick?" I'm assuming some sort of stripped down hardware that can run the OS but without the radios?
As for the RAZR- I have one, and since it does not have a removable battery there is only one way to do a hard reset in the case of a halt, and that's with the power and volume down buttons at the same time. You may want to include a momentary for the VOL down as well (or a rocker for the volume as a whole).
As for the RAZR- I have one, and since it does not have a removable battery there is only one way to do a hard reset in the case of a halt, and that's with the power and volume down buttons at the same time. You may want to include a momentary for the VOL down as well (or a rocker for the volume as a whole).
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Cool man. What's a "stick?" I'm assuming some sort of stripped down hardware that can run the OS but without the radios?
As for the RAZR- I have one, and since it does not have a removable battery there is only one way to do a hard reset in the case of a halt, and that's with the power and volume down buttons at the same time. You may want to include a momentary for the VOL down as well (or a rocker for the volume as a whole).
As for the RAZR- I have one, and since it does not have a removable battery there is only one way to do a hard reset in the case of a halt, and that's with the power and volume down buttons at the same time. You may want to include a momentary for the VOL down as well (or a rocker for the volume as a whole).
Yeah, there are a few out there that are meant to just plug into a tv and be used as a HTPC.
Thanks for your comment about the razr and the dedicated battery. Due to that, I purchased an atrix2 instead. Not quite as good of hardware, but I think for my practical purposes, it will serve just fine. I bought it on ebay with a broken simcard reader so it was about $100. I don't need the sim card sooooo...
From here, its basically going to just be waiting for the mimics module to ship, and determining the wiring. Also trying to determine if there will be enough power to the device without using a battery. If there is no battery, then it dies when the car is not running, which is what I want. But from my experience with android, I think that using gps/gmaps/external display, I will not be powering enough to run it all at once with no battery. So I've purchased a 4000mah battery to go along with the atrix2 just in case. That way it will always have enough juice, and it will charge when I'm not in the car (as long as I can find a +12 lead that is always hot)
I have always wanted to get a Carputer going, Closest idea I had was Mirror Image my iPhone for youtube videos and etc, but using a overlay, damn thats very custom, I would love to see the results!
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I've created a more accurate diagram to help myself in the planning of where I'm going to tap into the car's electronics. My goal is to be as less invasive as I can. Still not sure which wires I will end up tapping. Anyone have experience with this? I'm thinking of just piggy backing off of an unused fuse if possible, so I don't have to cut into any wires and void my warranty.
This show's an iphone, but thats only because the program did not have an android =P. But with the mimicsX2, this scenario is applicable for either platform.
Last edited by TheGrimReaper3; Oct 25, 2012 at 02:23 PM.
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I've also started building my Tasker tasks for when the device is in place. Tasker is an app that lets you automated functions on android, and will be of great help for anyone setting this stuff up. I'll do a big writeup when I actually get everything done and working, but just showing you guys what my thought process is right now.
First screenshot is of tasks when the car is "on". This trigger is actually set by the orientation of the screen on the device. Since I've determined that it will be best to just keep the device powered on at all times rather than turning it on/off at vehicle start/stop, the orientation is the only thing I could think of that will change when the car is truly on. That is because when the car is off, the car's display will be off, and the phone will not be sharing it's screen as a result. This will put the device into normal portrat mode. Tasker can take action based on this attribute, so my assumption is that this will work perfectly (fingers crossed)
Car "on" / landscape mode
Car "off" / portrait mode
The variable that is used on these tasks is just a tiny bit of programming. Essentially the way i have it confiugred here is that the car turns off wifi 30 seconds after the car turns off. But what if I turn the car back on in those 30 seconds? Without the variable in here wifi would be turned off and my setup would get all wonky and require human intervention. So the language here says turn off wifi IF carpower does not = 1. If i turn the car back on, the variable will be set to 1, and the wifi poweroff feature will not run. Follow me?
First screenshot is of tasks when the car is "on". This trigger is actually set by the orientation of the screen on the device. Since I've determined that it will be best to just keep the device powered on at all times rather than turning it on/off at vehicle start/stop, the orientation is the only thing I could think of that will change when the car is truly on. That is because when the car is off, the car's display will be off, and the phone will not be sharing it's screen as a result. This will put the device into normal portrat mode. Tasker can take action based on this attribute, so my assumption is that this will work perfectly (fingers crossed)
Car "on" / landscape mode
Car "off" / portrait mode
The variable that is used on these tasks is just a tiny bit of programming. Essentially the way i have it confiugred here is that the car turns off wifi 30 seconds after the car turns off. But what if I turn the car back on in those 30 seconds? Without the variable in here wifi would be turned off and my setup would get all wonky and require human intervention. So the language here says turn off wifi IF carpower does not = 1. If i turn the car back on, the variable will be set to 1, and the wifi poweroff feature will not run. Follow me?
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Wow
Hey please dont abandon this topic, even if it doesnt work out. Let us know what ends up happening because this would be amazing if you got it to work. I also saw some videos of a shop that installs ipad minis as a replacement for OEM screens, would this be possible with g37s? i dont think the backup camera would work, the navigation doesnt matter because some app like Navigon could replace it since it saves the maps and doesnt require internet. what do you guys think, would be awesome to have the option to have LTE in the car.
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Hello all just seen this thread tonight. I thought I was the only one doing this. I have actually done something similar to this in a armada. I got a navisk interface for backup camera and video input. I hard wired a female cigarette light adapter behind the dash with a dual usb charger, one cord for the phone and one for the hdmi convert box all on a toggle switch. I use a s3 and a droid 2 most of the time. But same here waiting on delivery for the new mimix module. The android stick seems genius and less complicated. Im going to have to buy one see how it works out.
