G37Avi

Hey guys,

Have a 2012 G37XS, swapping out the factory bose subwoofer on the rear shelf for a 10" Boston Acoustics Free Air. Planning on sound-deadening everything from the rear seats back, and will be installing an amplifier, obviously.

My question is, im going to be using a line-out converter, and planning on tapping off of the subwoofer wires before they go into the factory amp. My line out converter has 2 leads for each of the RCA outputs, there are only 2 subwoofer wires on the input harness of the factory amp. What is the best way to connect the line out converter? Should i tap off of each of the front door subwoofers? Should i run one lead from each RCA to the + and - of the pair of subwoofer inputs before they go into the amp?

Thanks guys!

SlimTV

I'd like to know if you ever got around to installing the free air woofer in your rear deck, and if so, how does it sound? Does the deck vibrate like crazy?? As for installing the LOC (line out converter) I would just use the B41? or is it B43? harness. Either way its the one from which you tap wires #23-26 for REAR right and REAR left speakers. This is covered in the forum so search as much as possible. If you use the subwoofer lead, you only have one channel, so I would add a splitter. Some LOC's have a mode where you can wire both input wires together as a single line. Kinda like bridging (pos to pos and neg to neg). But IMO the best way is to tap into the 23-26 wires.

G37Avi

I did install it. It came out great. The rear deck really doesnt rattle at all. I put dynomat on the underside of the rear deck (inside the trunk), as well as the trunk lid. Getting the woofer in there was a pain in the *** though, because of the overall depth of the woofer versus the angle of the rear glass. Naturally any woofer you swap out from the bose woofer is going to be deeper. There is a wide variety of shallow subwoofers out there, but finding one that will work well in a free air environment narrows your down.

Install was extremely easy, but time consuming. It was time consuming mostly because i am very particular about working on my car, much like everyone else on this forum. I love the stealth look from inside the car, the only difference is seeing the bottom of the magnet from inside the trunk. It really doesnt bother me too much though.


For anyone attempting... i will say one thing. The bose subwoofer screws into the top of the rear shelf in 4 places. Absolutely any subwoofer you replace it with will have more than 4 points to secure the woofer down. Go to the store and spend the $10 on the snake-like screw gun attachment (dont know the actual name of it). It attached to the chuck of the screw gun, and it will let you bend the top of the gun to get into the hard to reach spots. In our cars, with this project, it was a necessity. Even a right-angle screw gun will give you a hard time. Its also a good idea to cut out a ring of dynomat to put down on the top of the rear deck before you drop in the new woofer. Chances are you wont be able to screw down every spot on the new woofer, and you want to essentially seal off the cabin from the trunk in a free-air environment as best as possible.

Wiring the amp was a breeze. Took a peak at the FSM for the bose system, tapped off the wires BEFORE they went into the bose amp (including the remote turn-on), and mounted the amp to my back seat.

I would say a difficulty would be 5/10. Definitely get yourself a 6 pack because you will want to take your time.

Sofresh187

I am taking my car in to do this tomorrow... Wish me lick. Any suggestions on where to place the amp? I was thinking of screwing it to the back of the rear seat

G37Avi

Back of the seat is a good way to go. Not a whole lot of room back there, because of the pass-thru. Best of luck man. It was a relatively easy install to be honest. Just take a look at the bose wiring breakdown (if you have bose).

m1k358

iTrader: (2)

Curious which route you went to tap into the factory Bose amp?

fennsta_78

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G37Avi

Bose factory amp is under the rear shelf, on the left side, if you're looking at it from rear of the car. Using the bose wiring breakdown, i just tapped into the wires for the subwoofer and the remote turn on lead. I used a "line out" adapter, to convert the speaker wire i tapped off of into RCA. Went from RCA to the amplifier. I will take some pics as soon as i step out for lunch.

G37Avi

Here are a few pics of my set-up, so you guys can get an idea of what i did. As i previously stated, i used a Boston Acoustics 10" subwoofer which you will see in the picture is fairly deep. There are a TON of low-profile and slim subwoofer on the market these days.

You can see in the 2 amplifier pictures how i tapped the wires. Its important to use the correctly-sized wire taps. I also attached a picture of the line out converter, which you'll notice im only using 1 channel. I used an RCA Y-adapter to connect to the RCA's going to the amplifier. I also attached a picture of the subwoofer and the amp, so you can get an idea of how it all layed out.

g37flamer

thanks for sharing

billv

"Wiring the amp was a breeze. Took a peak at the FSM for the bose system, tapped off the wires BEFORE they went into the bose amp (including the remote turn-on), and mounted the amp to my back seat."

Isn't that like pre-amp level before the amp? Why did you need a line level converter, to boost the signal? Would just RCA's work?
Also, is there any way to mount from underneath?

08Gsmith25

Still need to run a power wire from the battery, right?

Gvilleguy31

What is the model of the sub? I can't find a boston acoustics free air.

08Gsmith25

I wonder how much free air matters in this case. Does the trunk and rear deck enclosure provide enough for a non free air? I have an Ib flat pioneer I was going to switch out for the stocker, but it's not free air, and I don't any to waste my time if it's going to sound the exact same or worse

mickeygriffin

am im running the remote from the amp or the head unit?