I have 2 boston acoustics g2 subs, but i would like to install 1 in the rear of my G37, if i only wanna slightly amplify this to have a little more bass for the overall sound system, what would be easiest way...

I dont want subs that pound, but just to add a lil more completeness to the surround sound

 

Easiest and cheapest way is to tap into the rear speakers and feed an amp to your sub or just eliminate the rear speakers and drive the sub with the stock amp. Pretty ghetto-liscious, but you asked for simple.

BTW, we do NOT have a multi-channel surround setup in our cars.

 

how about if i wanted to get a low wattage amplifier and give the sub a little boost...
I am leasing my g so i cant do drastic things, but if i wanted to tap into the rear speakers (i have the bose studio..) and feed that into the amplifier could that work?

Also, how can i power the amplifier without running power lines from the car, is it possible to tap into a cigerette lighter or have a power unit or something

 

I agree with dillyyo on this one. Adding a sub is not a time to cut corners as they require big power. But since you have the sub already, why don't you simply try disconnecting the rear shelf speakers and feeding the sub a mono signal. Adding a cigarette lighter powered small amp will be no better than the stock anyway!

 

after reading the DIY amp+sub installs, i figure i might as well do that...guidelines for a box

Sealed Enclosure: The G21244 woofer is optimized for use in a small sealed enclosure with a 1.0 cu. ft. internal volume.

so that wont take up much space...but to make the sub noticeable but not overly powerful in comparison with the stock system, what kind of amplifier should i get?

 

I'd run either of these for one Boston Acoustics G2 12" DVC sub:

JL Audio 250/1v2
Alpine PDX 2.150

Run some proper gauge cable from the battery to the trunk and enjoy!

 

Can I follow the steps for adding an amp/sub in the DIY where its been said to tap into the b43 wire 3 as power?

 

Not with those amps and I didn't realize that was your intent. I don't advise using any of the existing power leads to power an external amplifier. The load on the wire would be too great causing overheating.

This is just my opinion though. Try it with your Fosgate amp and keep a careful eye on the wire temp and actual voltage at the amplifier during driving.

 

whats up buddy, your best bet would be to run a small powered amplifier to your sub. tappin off rear speaker leads for signal sense works, but like others said ni**alicious! haha. obviously get an amp that (RMS) or also known as continuous power at the same rating as your subwoofer can handle continuous. also remember its always better to overpower a sub then underpower. gain settings are your best friend . with a small amp like that you can run an 8 AWG wire power kit and then you will need a hi-lo converter which will send your amp signals via RCA. the hi-lo will tap into rear speaker leads. pretty much the same thing others were sayin but thats called hi-level input (usually built into less expensive/entry level amplifiers. so all in all (sub w. box, amp kit, hi-lo converter, install and good to go)! if you have any other questions let me know. i work at a shop called car audio heaven/classic sounds in San Diego. good luck and c yaa!

 

hey thanks man, appreciate your input

so basically your saying, feed the power off of that and then put a hi-lo converter on the wires going into the bose speakers and then connect the wires to the amp...doesnt seem to hard

 

power wire from Batt. (12V) to Power term on amp, Remote lead from an Acc. or Ign. in vehicle (there are DIY threads on where the easiest location of that is, prob at an amp in rear... chime in anyway if you know it off the top of your head), Ground on any chassis or frame of vehicle (scrap paint for true ground on area), then lastly RCA to Hi-Lo Converter. The converter taps into the rear speakers for signal like i said earlier. and wam bam your amp installs done man

 

im actually not sure where to draw the power from... in the fuse box located by the clutch there are extra fuse spots and fuses, is there anyway to draw power from there?

It seems like there has a be a good power source in that box as it has to come from the battery..

Also, once i find out where to generate the power what is the best technique of hiding/running the wire to the trunk?

 

it is fairly simple to do installs in vehicles, however if u have any doubts i highly advise goin to a professional. dont grab any other power from fuse boxes etc... always go to tha main source (batt). youll have to find a gromet on the firewall or if worse comes to worse drill a small whole and insert your own gromet. run the power wire with all the existing factory wires ( kick panels, kick plates, behind rear quarter panel, etc. zip ties are your best friend too! make sure to carefully pull panals apart with correct tools. try not to use a flat head screw driver for this lol. good luck and ask around if u need help. there seems to be quite a bit of audio enthusiest that know what they r doin in here

 

alright...

going from the battery doesnt seem to complicated, anyone know the best method for finding the passenger side grommet?

Also, what would be the best remote controller to go with a rockford fosgate p400 amp, the rockford ones are pretty big looking, hoping i can find something else thats smaller..any ideas?