finagle69

iTrader: (3)

so I finally got everything in for my "on-the-cheap" audio installation.

Materials:

(1) JL Audio 10W6V2 - $180 on Craigslist
(1) JL Audio 500/1 - $220 on Craigslist
(1) Zenclosure - $155 from zenclosures.com
(1) 4AWG wiring kit - $80 from Fry's
1 Lot Misc stuff - $50ish - Fry's & Home Depot

Total cost - $685

This isn't exactly a difficult or exciting install. Definitely not a quality fiberglass job with neons and the like, but my main goal was to fill out the lower end while not depleting the funds in the bank.

see pics below...

Remote Bass **** located..


Rear seat removed.. (this was a b|tch to do BTW)


Rear of car sans rear seat..


Cable daylighting..


Cable cleanliness..


Completed..


Closeup..


Special thanks to DieselDoug for tap locations on the Bose and Woofer amps as well as help with amp settings! And thanks to Jedmonds for the temporary sub box and soon-to-be dynamat for the trunk lid!

Let me know what you think.

sTiLLBaLLiN37

iTrader: (9)

one word....

clean!

Blackjack

iTrader: (3)

Very clean... Doens't look cheap to me. Nice job, bro!

Black Betty

iTrader: (60)

Very nice. Clean looking install.

MaxToTheG37

iTrader: (3)

thats what Mine looked like... super easy to use the Zen box... I loved it... hows the w6 thump?

finagle69

iTrader: (3)

thanks guys.

it's honestly more bass than i'll ever use. i have the input sense down pretty low.

i like to be able to turn the bass **** (up front) down all the way for spoken word or if the GF is in the car, so it needs to be practically off-ish at that point. when i crank the boom-**** up though, it's nice and loud. very clean sound too.

weave

Very nice, exactly the setup I want in my car.....except you managed to spend half what I was quoted!!!

IP37

werd
looks good. i'd do a fiberglass panel to go over the speaker / amp though

oh an nice wheels. where'd ya get those from? lol

maxipad96

iTrader: (3)

How are the rattles?

bboysteele

Dang, looks great and you still have room in the trunk.

finagle69

iTrader: (3)

i've found some resonant frequencies...

i've got a bass test CD on my iphone and can listen to every frequency from 20 up to 100Hz. there are some killers in there... sounds like the car is try to shake loose!

fiberglass-shmiberglass!

maxipad96

iTrader: (3)

What are your main issues? I think the license plate is a give that it will rattle like crazy. Especially how it hangs half on/off.

Black Betty

iTrader: (60)

Did you ground all the way back to the negative battery terminal? And since you've already measured and run the power wire, how long is it and is there room in the firewall to run 0 AWG easily?

finagle69

iTrader: (3)

already took care of the license plate. i have a pack of stick-on felt pads from wal-mart that i placed inbetween the plate and plate frame. it no longer rattles.

the main issues now are inside. at ALL frequencies, something in the rear package shelf rattles, i'll have to take it apart and try to secure everything.

at higher freq's, it seems like the part of the headliner that meets the back glass is rattling. not sure though, you know how rattling noises can play tricks on you.

finagle69

iTrader: (3)

No, I grounded under the right-hand trunk cover. there's a metal plate bolted to the frame up closer to the rear seats. this is an ideal location as it's only about 2.5 linear feet to the amp. I just scraped the heck out of the paint, put the ring terminal on the bare metal, then the metal plate back on top and bolted the heck out of it.

i didn't measure the length, but my kit came with 20' of 4AWG which is more than enough. i'd say i have about 3' slack in the +12VDC wire.

DieselDoug used 18' which he said was barely enough, but he mounted his amp on the drivers side, so he had more feet to deal with.

Oh, and 1/0 can EASILY fit through the main grommet. there's plenty of room around my single penetration. running 1/0 through the wiring channels under the passenger kick panels may be tough, but i'm sure its doable. the 4AWG fit in there just fine.