Dieseldoug22

iTrader: (27)

Cutting the wire is not going to account for engine noise. Engine noise is usually introduced into the signal from a power wire running together with a signal wire. That is why it is good to run the power wires down one side of the car and the signal wires done the other if you where doing a complete install. If you don't want to physically cut the wire you can just strip a 1/2" section of insulation from the wire and solder the new tapped line to the exposed wire. I don't think that a tap would work a well as a direct connection. For a power trigger wire it is okay but for a sound wire I don't think it is enough.

As for getting your power wire, there are none that are big enough to run an aftermarket amp. If you do run a separate power wire run it down the passenger side because the signal wires run down the drivers side.

Dieseldoug22

iTrader: (27)

They probably just used one song to check it and it work ok so here you go... bye now.

MaxToTheG37

iTrader: (3)

ok thanks......

dillyyo

Because most people don't really understand or know how a system with a flat response sounds. 99% of the people have much more bass than the tracks or songs are suppose to have, but thats the preference. Especially in a car where road noise ans such cancel out low bass frequencies and make them harder to hear. I don't know if this is what they really did, but is a common thing I have seen in car audio over the years. Honestly though, sometimes, a lot I should say, shops and their techs are egg heads and really don't know how to tune a system. Crossovers are not points that are arbitrarily throw out there. There are a multitude of factors that influence this and this is detrimental in an all active setup. Passive crossovers make it much easier, but 9 times out of 10, unless you have a very knowledgeable and experienced shop, your car will com out sounding half of what it could or should. Just my .02c

dillyyo

This is misinformed information and if you want to know why, please just ask. I am not a great typer and prefer to not waste my time when the recipient really does not care.

dillyyo

Only thing you really need to concern yourself with is whether he says you need a device like a Clean Sweep since the signal from the HU is processed. If he says this too you then just ask him why if all of the Bose processing happens in the amp? That means the signal from the radio HU to the amp is NOT processed and is a clean signal. He should just be able to put RCA tips onto those lines and plug them directly into an amp(s). If you see installs out there in G37's, with Clean Sweeps (which I have), that means they got suckered into spending more money than needed. And not only spending unnecessary money, but making their signal from the head unit WORSE. Now if you see someone with an RF 360.1 etc then they might be using it for other DSP factors like time alignment and such.

cartman13

I'm thinking I may do the signal tap and install myself, and let someone run the power for me.

Yep, I got that from reading the forums here. An installer stated talking about needing a signal processor ect. Was pretty sure he was talking about a clean sweep. I was going to ask a few more questions, but decided to just leave. I was curious about what you thought about just having someone run power for me. Is there an art to running power? or is that a pretty simple thing to do for any installer? (Also, I saw a comment bout line noise. If you don't mind could you elaborate?) I recall from day's past that this was caused by alternator buzz, and it usually had to do with something about proper grounding?

Oh, and just to clarify, if i tap the lines between the Bose amp and the Sub Amp, i should be using the RCA inputs on my after market amp to receive the signal and not the speaker inputs, correct?

Thanks,

dillyyo

I'll answer your PM message here, along with the questions in this post. First off, with your Alpine 350 mono block amp, get the W3 in a Dual Voice Coil Configuration (DVC 4 Ohm). You will wire these voice coils in parallel and present a 2 Ohm nominal load to your amp. I state nominal because in reality, your amp doesn't just see a 2 Ohm load as impedance with a speaker (reactive) varies with frequency.

You can easily install Power wire. Get a good kit and attach to your battery. Usually on the firewall, under the battery area, there will be a rubber plug or grommet where you can run power wire through. You would then run your wire through there, behind the passenger kick panel and underneath the sill and carpeting, until you go under the back seat and then into the trunk. I personally have not looked at the wiring for our systems yet, but from what others on here have said, should be a no brainer.

Without getting technical, you can run your power wire along the same side as your signal wires. Don't worry about opposite side of the car crap. Most noises will be do to ground loops or faulty components, especially when coming from line level OEM HU.

Running wire really is just monkey work. In actuality, since going through to the doors is a PITA with Molex plugs, I am building my amp and sub rack, installing my speakers and amps and then bringing my car to a shop to have them install my wiring. They won't be too happy, but better than me busting my *** and having to do it! LOL I've done enough in my lifetime and thats the worst part of the job. So don't feel bad if you don't feel up to being able to do it. Just make sure they seem competent and not going to break things and possibly pinch wires so you get a short.

Just for clarification, from the brief overlook that I took of the schematics, there is NO bass amp. The small amp is just used to drive the rear deck woofers, which do play bass frequencies, but so do the woofers up front in the doors. I don't know the particulars about crossover points and all as BLOSE doesn't release that. I don't know if there is a signal coming from the HU and then into the small amp and then to the big amp or vice a versa. Anyone of those pos and neg pairs should be a full signal. They SHOULD be line level signals, meaning that you can just solder RCA terminals onto them. If yo can't do this then maybe you should let a shop do it for you and just don't let them try and tell you you need a signal summing device like a Clean Sweep or RF 360.1 Tell them you just want them to tap the wires and put on RCA ends. If the shop fights you or is apprehensive at ALL, go to someone else. They most likely aren't knowledgeable enough. If you have any other questions, just PM.

Dieseldoug22

iTrader: (27)

I found a good article on reducing/preventing noise in your system.

http://www.termpro.com/articles/noise.html



Hey dillyyo you might want to take a look at number 3. As G.I. Joe used to say "Now I know, and knowing is half the battle."

dillyyo

Believe me...I am WELL aware of the so called mantras. I am telling you from experience and every installer that I have ever known, it doesn't induce noise. I bundle my RCA's (when I used them), remote, power wire and speaker wires all together and have NEVER had noise due to it. If you have noise in a system the first thing you should check is your grounds and then faulty electronic connections or components.

Just a quick lesson here. Cars run on DC (direct current). The same signal that is going through the power wire is also going through the cars chassis (the ground). So unless you have a way for the RCA's to not come near the chassis of the car, you are fighting a losing battle, since its just like laying against the power wire. Also keep in consideration that you have an AC (alternating Current) flowing through your RCA's. Read up on some electrical theory and you too will see why it is a waste of time to separate your wiring.

kiddmaff5646

dillyyo.. Thanks for all the info! quick question.. is a Clean Sweep or RF 360.1
the same as a Hi-Lo ?

And are you saying it is safe to tap RCA's to the signal before the amp?
I think this is where they messed up on my car. They should have tapped in before the amp.

cartman13

Another question guys:

I was thinking about where to hook up the remote power wire for the amp. I've read about people going behind the head unit to hook it up.

Is that even necessary? I was thinking i would just tap the remote power to connector B43 to the woofer terminal 3 (amp on signal)? shouldn't that effectively do the same thing with a lot less running wire?

Hopefully i'm not way off base here....

Dieseldoug22

iTrader: (27)

Hey dillyyo, now just to start by saying I am not looking to battle, just get the facts straight. I have read up on electrical theory as you had suggested, and from what I have read it states that although the ground and positive have the same current running through them, the positive is more concentrated. The ground/chassis being that it is so large has little EMF associated with it. The positive being that it is so concentrated has more of a chance to create an EMF, since it has a smaller aperture to travel through as compared to the whole cars chassis. I also found that even though the car is DC it still has a small amount of AC voltage from the alternator remaining in the system. And from what I have read, since there is an AC voltage in the power wire, an AC current can be induced and added the the sound signal. Which in turn is amplified along with the music.

Now I am not negating the fact that a bad ground can be a problem with noise. And that it should be your first place to check. I am just trying to get rid of any possibility of noise being introduced into the signal from the very beginning.

Dieseldoug22

iTrader: (27)

That is how I had hooked up my remote trigger and it works fine.

dillyyo

Yes and no. A Cleansweep and 360 contain a Hi-low converter, but are more than that with the 360 having the most features. A hi low converter is a device that converts speaker level signals (say from an amp to the speakers) to RCA or line level inputs (low level). A line driver does exactly the opposite as a Hi-low in that it takes a line level or low level signal (RCA) and converts it to a high voltage (hi level) signal.

DSP's like Clean Sweeps and 360.1 were introduced since many people wanted to retain their OEM HU, but a lot of times these signals were already processed from the HU. Clean Sweep was first and what it did was take this processed hi level signal and then flattened them out and summed them together. This way you could add after market systems and not be stuck with the BS frequency responses the OEM systems had been putting out. Then 360.1 came out with other things besides this signal summing/flattening, like time alignment.

In out Bose system, and most modern Bose systems if I remember correctly, the signal processing is done in the amp, not the head unit. So from the HU to the amp, you have a clean relatively flat signal that can just be hooked up to an after market amp as if it were coming from an after market head unit. Someone can waste money and put a Clean Sweep AFTER the Bose amps and flatten the response, but Bose changed the response so it worked well with its speakers in our particular car. Anyone that is throwing in an after market amp and speakers, whether thats just a sub and amp or many speakers and many amps, the signal before the Bose amps can be tapped and will provide a solid signal from the OEM HU and still maintain all OEM functioning. That is the main point of keeping the OEM HU, right?!