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Where to draw the signal from for the sub?

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Old 06-13-2010, 05:21 PM
  #241  
hechen507
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I got a 09 sedan w/ bose w/o nav, and i'm looking into powered subwoofers. But the thing is powered subwoofers uses rca audio connector, how would I convert the subwoofer +/- to left and right?

Last edited by hechen507; 06-13-2010 at 06:31 PM.
Old 06-13-2010, 08:26 PM
  #242  
Haji
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Don't buy a powered subwoofer. Do it right man, amp, woofer and enclosure, those sound like ****.
Old 06-13-2010, 11:34 PM
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hechen507
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Originally Posted by Haji
Don't buy a powered subwoofer. Do it right man, amp, woofer and enclosure, those sound like ****.
Okay, but the amps still have the rca connectors too. How would you convert the +/- to the rca connectors?
Old 06-14-2010, 04:03 AM
  #244  
xixonmn
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Originally Posted by hechen507
Okay, but the amps still have the rca connectors too. How would you convert the +/- to the rca connectors?
Get the + signal from Sound Signal Woofer +, - signal from Sound Signal Woofer - wires. It took me 10 minutes to remove all the trims and only 1 minutes to connect the wires.

This is how I do it:




Last edited by xixonmn; 06-14-2010 at 04:09 AM.
Old 06-14-2010, 05:13 AM
  #245  
hechen507
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Originally Posted by xixonmn
Get the + signal from Sound Signal Woofer +, - signal from Sound Signal Woofer - wires. It took me 10 minutes to remove all the trims and only 1 minutes to connect the wires.

This is how I do it:



And is that signal pre amped? if not do you think i'll have any trouble using it?
Old 06-14-2010, 11:11 AM
  #246  
xixonmn
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Originally Posted by hechen507
And is that signal pre amped? if not do you think i'll have any trouble using it?
It should be pre-amp because if you look at the attached PDF in post 7, you will see that's the signal that coming to the stock amp.
I've been using it since I got my G37. I don't remember how I wired my G35 but it seems like at the same volume level, it doesn't hit as hard as when the subs were in my G35. Must be the signal is weaker than the signal coming from the G35 head unit.

/oh. And you can just push the wires to the stock connector and secure it with electrical tape or hot glue gun, don't need to cut any wires. It's easy to unmod and doesn't leave any mess. For some reason when selling the car to older people, they don't like to see those wires.

Last edited by xixonmn; 06-14-2010 at 11:29 AM.
Old 06-14-2010, 09:26 PM
  #247  
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Originally Posted by xixonmn
It should be pre-amp because if you look at the attached PDF in post 7, you will see that's the signal that coming to the stock amp.
I've been using it since I got my G37. I don't remember how I wired my G35 but it seems like at the same volume level, it doesn't hit as hard as when the subs were in my G35. Must be the signal is weaker than the signal coming from the G35 head unit.

/oh. And you can just push the wires to the stock connector and secure it with electrical tape or hot glue gun, don't need to cut any wires. It's easy to unmod and doesn't leave any mess. For some reason when selling the car to older people, they don't like to see those wires.
Thanks for all the info!
I have one more question, I have read from some forum saying that if I get a aftermarket sub I should disconnect the stock 6x9 sub. Would it be better if I have both of them connected?
Old 06-14-2010, 11:14 PM
  #248  
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Originally Posted by hechen507
Thanks for all the info!
I have one more question, I have read from some forum saying that if I get a aftermarket sub I should disconnect the stock 6x9 sub. Would it be better if I have both of them connected?
I disconnected them but I'm thinking about reconnecting them back. In my G35, I ran the remote wire to the cigarette lighter fuse. I made a switch so when I kick it, the amp turns off. No one likes being "kicked" when they are on the back seats.
In this one, I will use a 2-way Switch so I can switch between the stock amp and the big amp.

You can cut wire #3 and make a switch from there.



Old 06-14-2010, 11:56 PM
  #249  
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Originally Posted by xixonmn
I disconnected them but I'm thinking about reconnecting them back. In my G35, I ran the remote wire to the cigarette lighter fuse. I made a switch so when I kick it, the amp turns off. No one likes being "kicked" when they are on the back seats.
In this one, I will use a 2-way Switch so I can switch between the stock amp and the big amp.

You can cut wire #3 and make a switch from there.



Cann't I just splice wire #3 and let both the stock amp and sub amp on? Or is it bad having both the stock sub and aftermarket sub on at the same time?
Old 06-15-2010, 12:37 AM
  #250  
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You can have both on at the same time. I don't like the way they sound when both are on. You can always give them a shot to see which way is better.
Old 06-15-2010, 04:06 AM
  #251  
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Originally Posted by xixonmn
You can have both on at the same time. I don't like the way they sound when both are on. You can always give them a shot to see which way is better.
Will do I decided to get one PIONEER TS-W3002D4 with Kenwood Excelon X1200M amp.
Old 06-15-2010, 12:22 PM
  #252  
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Originally Posted by Haji
Yupp 8 & 9 are high level inputs, they read higher on the DMM.
23-26 are universal for all amps.
So if I used 23-26, should it be high or low?
Old 06-15-2010, 06:16 PM
  #253  
Haji
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23-26 are guaranteed LOW level inputs!! My hifi amp doesn't take high level, that's how I know for sure lol

After you wire them up I'd actually suggest using a line driver just to make sure you have no noise due to splices, but that's unnecessary.
Old 06-15-2010, 06:58 PM
  #254  
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Originally Posted by Haji
23-26 are guaranteed LOW level inputs!! My hifi amp doesn't take high level, that's how I know for sure lol

After you wire them up I'd actually suggest using a line driver just to make sure you have no noise due to splices, but that's unnecessary.
That's what I figured and that's what I have them on. Just trying to figure out an issue I'm having. Seems more and more likely I have a very temperature finicky amp.
Old 06-15-2010, 08:31 PM
  #255  
Haji
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Oh yeah I remember your problem!
Yeah man any amp is affected by heat, because like I said before you lose current because of heat!


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