Dj1ofDet

iTrader: (5)

I'd do as some else mentioned and detach the mufflers, instead of the entire exhaust. Those bolts look to be in much better condition for PB blaster and a breaker bar. Worse case if anything breaks, you can get the complete gasket kit for replacement.

Detaching the mufflers is as easy as unbolting the hanger behind rear wheel, and the clamp in your latter photos. The muffler should then slide out of the rear hanger and you're good to go!

EDIT: don't forget a dead blow mallet if those joints are a bit seized up.

Lego_Maniac

iTrader: (3)

^^you should be able to get those off. I'd still hit them with PB blaster, but removing those will allow you to decouple the mufflers and get the rear swaybar on.

G37Xtreme

Based on the diy, I thought I'd have to undo the middle joint near the brace in order to finagle the sway bar into place. That being said Black Betty did say that this step would depend on your actual exhaust...so I tried to find tips from people in that thread with oem exhaust.

I'm planning on going under the car again today to take another look.

I thought that I could possibly slide the away bars in and out if I removed a single tire and maneuvered it around the bends and pulled it out towards the rotor.
Had anyone done this at all without loosening a single exhaust bolt?

I think someone on page one mentioned not having to take out a single bolt or unhooking any hangers. Another person said no bolts, just unhooking some hangers.

Also I have awd, so not sure if I have more bends in my bars, or if the bends are shaped/arranged differently.

JSolo

iTrader: (14)

Where's the pics of the bolts on the end links? Those are the ones I'd be concerned about.

Mine is a rwd, so the front bar was 10 minute job (more or less). At the time, I still had the stock exhaust. Had to angle the bar in different directions as it got worked around the exhaust.

If you're going to mess with the exhaust, dropping the mufflers is pretty easy. Don't lose the small gasket between the midpipe and muffler flange.

G37Xtreme

The end link bolts looked good compared to the exhaust. I have a few pictures, and this looks like the worst of the bunch. All bolts and nuts were hit with pb blaster this weekend. I'll hit them again before I start.

G37Xtreme

My sway bars were delivered today at the office. The box fit in my backseat but I had to angle it. It's too bad I have to wait until the weekend to install them...I expect the impact wrench to make too much noise.

Damn...3 solid nights of waiting...

Rochester

iTrader: (9)

Always exciting, getting bolt-on mods in the mail. Particularly when they're in a large box. You're going to love the sways. Guaranteed.

However, if you're running AS tires, you're going to be hating them after installing aftermarket swaybars. What tires on that X?

Lego_Maniac

iTrader: (3)

FWIW, I did my sways with a 1/2" drive ratchet and 6 point sockets/wrenches, although an impact wrench is probably easier

G37Xtreme

They're all season

What sort of issues will I experience?

Rochester

iTrader: (9)

The reduced body roll will make you want to lean harder into turns, because you can. At which point you'll be more keenly aware of what your tires are (not) capable of. In other words, your tires are going to start singing as they lose grip.

You'll see. Either way, the sways are a win.

G37Xtreme

Interesting...

I may have to keep 17" wheels if I switch to summer tires. I've mentioned this before...I hate buying tires, and usually choose tires with a UTQG treadwear over 500 when possible. I've seen some summer tires with a treadwear above 250...which to me goes against my very principle. I understand the trade off though. I also see some with a treadwear of like 140.

What about tires in the "ultra high performance all season" category? Do those still pale in comparison to an "ultra high performance summer" tire? I've always had my eye on the Continental DWS even when I had my 2012 Maxima. That has a tread wear over 500. Would this tire be adequate?

Another thing...I don't normally see snow around these parts. I can't remember the last time we got snow more than twice during the winter...and usually within 3-4 days, even the back roads are pretty clear. Running a set of winter tires isn't something I'd want to do given this scarcity...but now I'm wondering if given this same scarcity, should I run all-season in anticipation of snow twice a year? It would be rather impractical for me to just not drive at all once the snow falls.

I'm going to spend a little time on tirerack looking things over. My current tires were pretty much new when I bought the car, and I expect at least another 30k miles out of them.

Rochester

iTrader: (9)

Given that you barely get snow or ice, and that you have an AWD car, I'd recommend high-performance AS tires between December and March, then Summer-only tires during the rest of the year.

Running two sets throughout the year increases how long you will own any one set, while maximizing how much performance you can get out of tires during the entire year, in fair consideration for winter safety. You do NOT want to be caught with summer-only tires on snow or ice. That would be bad.

I have two cars, so that's 16 tires in rotation, 8 each car. Granted, for my G, those tires are on two different sets of wheels.

If storage is an issue, then never mind.

G37Xtreme

You should see my garage

I could make room for a stack of 4 wheels, but as it is now, nope. I just made enough room to pull a single car into the garage far enough such that the wheels closest to the garage door are no longer on the driveway (which slops downward). I did this in anticipation of my sway bar install...when I planned to have all 4 wheels off the the ground.

Then, I re-read BB's DIY and noticed that he used ramps. I think I'll have enough room to work with just ramps. Also, is it dangerous to run jack stands on all 4 corners? My thoughts were with jack stands, I can get even more clearance than I get with the ramps...but it will be much easier to do this with my ramps.

Rochester

iTrader: (9)

^^^

canucklehead

iTrader: (9)

^^ jack stands all four corner are fine, lots of guys do that or even store cars on stands all around.

i did my sways one at a time, lifting rear first then dropping the rear and moving on to the front. either way works, however.

DIY sways is a fun and easy mod that will produce immediate "gains" that can be enjoyed on the street at legal speeds as well as on the track. and sways will highlight inferior tires so you may find yourself wanting a true summer set to make the most of the new sways.

as i mentioned in the other sways thread you do not need to remove the exhaust. just drop the rear section enough to get clearance for the rear sway re + re.