JinV36

The thing with a buffer is, I have no idea how to use / control one PROPERLY. Like at all.. I dont want to mess up this cars paint..

But from what Ive noticed: This car has a few problems with the paint already.

(-) More scratches than I noticed after I washed car (I thought weer maybe dirt marks, etc)
(-) I have a paint chip on the back left bumper that shows black that I would like to replace. Don't know how.
(-) I have water marks ? Pretty much, they look like oil spots on my car (imagine an very oily paper bag of food sitting on a piece of binder paper, than remove. Leaves an oil spot which is sort of darker than the rest) I have those spots. I'm assuming I can remvoe with polish / wax or even compound / polish / wax, but I don't want to make it worst.

Do I need to upload pictures? And which scratches are able to get remvoed by compound. The scratches which show a white mark but are still smooth when touched? Or can you also remove some that have a LITTLE, LITTLE scratch indent . Thanks

Flakman

Most scratches that show white but can barely feel are in the clear coat. They can be removed with the compound. Basically you are removing very thin layers of clear coat to even it out and remove the scratch. Using an RO buffer isn't rocket science And you can get the hang of it pretty quickly. Watch some videos at Ammo NYC (youtube) and some at autogeek.com to get some tips. But do what you're comfortable with. You can do a panel at a time by hand and work the areas that need the most attention.

blnewt

iTrader: (13)

If you really want to keep your G (and any other cars you own) looking tip top a RO Buffer like a Porter Cable is a great tool. They aren't like the commercial auto-body buffers that can really blow up your paint if you're not experienced with them. Like Flakman mentioned, a few videos and a bit of practice and you'll be able to achieve professional results pretty quick.
I'd say to get started w/a a quality buffer, pad assortment, and a few compound/polishes would be about $250 if you look around. Definitely one of the best $250 you'll spend. Do a few details on a couple weekends and you'll have that paid off
Here's a good combo kit, although more pads would be a good addition
http://www.chemicalguys.com/Porter_C...FZGDaQod4kMA6Q

Plus, compounding & polishing by hand greatly resembles work

JinV36

Confused on last statement? But i'll look into buying one. For those first few waxes, I'm doing hand. Might try one of the multiple bird crap stains by hand with compound, polish, than wax and see how it turns out.

Quick question, was reading old threads. Do you still have your top speed exhaust? And if so, did you add the meagn y pipe yet?

I was planning to get HFC but since they are illegal like a muh ****.., than I started looking at the Top Speed and foudn your old thread.

Just wondering if its worth the 400$. And if so, how has it been lasting and if you have added any other pipes to it to replace the stock.

blnewt

iTrader: (13)

That comment you highlighted was just a bit of sarcasm, kinda. Doing the compound buffing and polishing w/ the RO buffer is a breeze, doing it by hand IS work.

I still have the TS exhaust, it's held up well, sounds great, and still shines up like new, no issues whatsoever. I had one of the first ones so I can't say if the current versions are as good, and they did go w/ smaller OD tips. No other pipes have been added to my setup.

JinV36

That's what I figured. Didn't know if you meant it turns out to where people can look afterwards and determine that "it was done by hand".

And do you think I should just jump on it and get them? Or call them. Just because I want a better sound but can't go illefal for smog. For 400$ , that's pretty good.

What are the main differences you think you can name off the top of the head. how are thegr when compared to tanabe or Megan, which are both in the same price rangr

blnewt

iTrader: (13)

The Tanabe is an axle back so you won't get the deeper tone that you get w/ the Y back since the TopSpeed has less restrictive midpipes/resonators, but the look & finish of the Tanabe seems very good. The Megan seems like a slightly different version of the TopSpeed, looks similar enough that I think they come from the same factory w/ just enough differences to qualify as a "different" product.
The only differences from the current TopSpeed and mine as far as I can tell is the tips are smaller in diameter but possibly stick out a bit further on the latest versions. Also there is a cheap looking thin walled, cut tip version that they sell and this doesn't look good, you MUST order the beveled/rolled tip version or you'll be very disappointed.

Thread meandered off course, go ahead and start a new exhaust thread if you want to talk more about the TopSpeed, let's keep this one about washing the car

JinV36

So I got my Opti No rinse wash solution, and I am going to use it this weekend.

I am SORRY that I asked this a lot, as I want to make sure I don't mess up the paint as I would literally be mad looking at my car everyday if I **** it up.

So Im gonig to use this wash than debadge my Infiniti lettering only. The people are the dealership said do NOT use goo gone as it is to strong for the paint but instead recommended using 91% rubbing alcohol

He said this beacuse the Infiniti lettering is a double-sided tape and the alcohol should remove the left over adhesive? Any feedback on this?