Hey all,
Just picked up a 2013 G37x, been looking at them for a bit, but as a ford guy was unsure. Took it for a test drive, had the paper work done 15 minutes later. Sent a pic to a few friends, and one of them called me a homo and sent me a pic of their new Challenger Rumble Bee. I wasn't planning on doing more than tint to this car, now that has changed. One of my mechanic buddies told me to do a tuner, cat-back exhaust and intake system to start. I figured best place to start my research was here. I know I am not getting it to 495hp like the Bee has, but if I can get another 40-50, with my AWD and lighter car I should be able to hold my own for a bit.

What setups are you folks running and if dyno'd, what are you pushing for HP?

Any assistance is appreciated, sorry if this post is in the wrong place.
-C

 

Have the same car. Race from 0 or 20 lol but it’s only matter of time before he passes you. a 40 roll and up he will pull immediately.
Full bolt on with tune max g37x is around 340-350 whp 280 tq. Stock is around 270whp. If you turbo or supercharge or nitrous that’s completely different and could run 11s. Right now stock it runs high 13s. Full bolt on e85 might might get into the 12.9-13.0 but will cost the same to go fi. You are also driving a boat 3800 lbs stock. Try loosing some weight on the new parts you buy. Awd will help with the launch in making it consitant but you won’t be able to launch from high rpm like manual can.

Best mods for x.
Tune $ 550-800 depending if you do dyno or e tune,
Long tube Intake (stillen gen 3) $450 ,
throttle bodies ($250 to port oem or $800 for eps),
$500 resonated test pipes/hfc,
skip headers unless you go fast Intentions long tube headers (I’ve had more issues because of my stillen headers $600 on my g37x sedan, fi custom makes their headers.)
Get a good full 2.5 inch catback $1000+ . Fast jntentions custom makes these also. Had a lot of issues with with the x parts people say fit but really don’t.
-Go ahead buy front rear hotchkis swaybars $400 and $180 Cusco strut brace and good lightweight rims(they don’t look as good as most but they improve the expirence you have braking and acceleratating along with handling check rpf1.

 

Also haven’t seen anybody to successfully swap out the final gear ratio for front and rear from the factory 3.35 to something more aggressive like 3.7/3.9/4.08 etc. people say it can be done but haven’t had luck making that work out.

 

Forced induction

 

Thanks for all the info, I will start looking in to some of this stuff.
-C

 

I had a 09 G37X sedan that would give people in those cars lots of trouble . Fully bolted and tune it was 324 WHP and 13.5 was the best I ran at 106 if I remember right but that was before my headers and retune(324 WHP) and the car was a lot quicker after that, I would have been surprised it I wouldn't have been able to pull a 13.1.

There are few guys where I live lot got very surprised

 

I was one who tried, I still have a set of stock 370 gears in my closet. The front diff is the issue NO gears out there. I even researched swapping from a R33, couldn't find any hard data. Plus the motor has to come out somewhat as I the front axle goes through the bottom of the motor( What I was told 2 years ago) :/

 

I'd do bolt-ons and a tune and call it a day. Focus on improving your handling and grippy tires. He'll never go to the track against you - guarantee it. Way too much to lose. Sedan AWD hooks up pretty nicely and I think that's where the advantage would be regardless.

Anyways, You got a solid, all-around luxury car. He got a RWD muscle car that's good at one thing...Not to mention, Over-priced and un-reliable from what I've read. If it's that much of a concern though, sell the G and get a 5.0 Coyote and smack him...Or you can be a really big jerk and get an Eco Beast and really surprise him.

 

Concentrate on your cars strengths. Bolt ons wont get you a ton more as far as straight-line performance, but swaybars and other suspension mods will have you able to take corners way faster than that dodge. That dodge could have 1000hp and you'd still win anything but a drag race.

 

Bore the block to 97mm, up the CP to 12.5:1, get JWT stage I or II cams (research which suits your needs most and purchase), get +1mm intake and exhaust valves, find a way to strip at least 500 pounds from your car, go with a 3.25 inch dual intake, buy a pair of shaftless 72mm throttle bodies, port match and polish your upper and lower intakes (might want to consider getting a custom upper plenum as it will bottleneck the TBs), get headers (make sure you get ones that will clear the front diff housing), run test pipes that are 2.5", get a CBE that is also 2.5", swap out your front and rear diff to 3.69, consider getting a LSD (I recommend Wavetrac), rebuild your tranny to handle the changes, and get at least some 285 width tires for the rear. Make sure you get the best tune you can, I would go with E85 for the added power. You still will not have the torque he does but you will have the power plus the benefit of AWD for launch and a slightly higher reving engine. If you really want to go for the money swap the crank out for a 92mm stroke, then you got yourself a 4.0L VQ.

If you go 3.692 gear ratio use a front diff+housing from a 2009-2012 FX35, 2007-2008 G35X, 2009-2010 M35X, or 2013-Present FX37. Direct swap part. You will need to drop the engine by 2 to 3 inches to remove the diff housing on the front passenger side.

 

All this is awesome info, thanks everyone. I am going to start with a tuner (one that I can swap back and forth from tuned to stock for inspections), intake, exhaust and suspension. I am also going to get lighter aftermarket rims. What are you guys running for parts in the aforementioned areas?

 

What exactly are you worried about with inspections? A good tune will allow you to roll up, get codes read, be on your merry way.

ARK, Motordyne and Fast Intentions are basically your only options with the AWD. Could go custom, AAM makes an interesting Intake and so does Admin tuning if you want to maximize an NA build.

 

The new inspections in MA check for modifications to your emissions systems and intake systems. I want the peace of mid to know that I can change the tune once a year when it is time.

 

Couldn't they just...you know...look, listen? Pop the hood? A tuner isn't going to un-mod your exhaust upon visual inspection.

Maryland prohibits it too. Just say it's the sport trim. Unless they have stock photos or a db tester and know the stock db levels they can't exactly argue it.

Edit: In my experience, they plug in, look for codes, send you on your way. If codes are present then you fail. If everything reads fine (good tuner...) no questions asked.

 

What's your budget?