4DRZ

iTrader: (7)

Feel free to share what you learned if you think it would work on the G37S sedan.

slartibartfast

iTrader: (7)

I spent quite a bit of time on that board, lots of issues discussed and solutions presented in re overheating and limp mode.

4DRZ

iTrader: (7)

The oil cooler pretty much solves the overheating and limp mode issues for me. Again, if you have good advice on how to best get hot air out of the engine bay on my '13 G37S sedan for track days, please share.

zer099

iTrader: (2)

My fuel temp sensor is inline with my ethanol sensor. It sits next to the engine on the outside of the battery compartment. When hot (80°F~100°F) out and moving, the temp is about 30° warmer than ambient temperature. It's not the best means to gauge the engine compartment temperature, but it gives me an idea. When I sit in traffic it typically climbs to about 50° warmer then ambient and levels off around 140°~150°. When it's cold out I typically see only a 15°~20° difference when moving from ambient temps with it not normally going hotter then 120° on a 55°F or cooler day. You have to account for the fuel's cooling effect, but like I said: not the best means to gauge, but it gives an idea.

And yes, 34 row oil cooler and a 24 row tranny cooler on my ride.

bPChaos

Took a bit of digging - but I did find this thread specifically addressing cooling vents vs. higher efficiency/bigger radiators.

Heat soak - vented hood options that are not "louvered" - Page 3 - Nissan 370Z Forum

The points seem valid, but I'm still going through the thread. Keeping in mind the front of the 370Z is shaped differently, with smaller grille openings, which would pretty significantly affect the velocity of the air entering the engine bay and how the air travels over the front of the car.

I guess the Google-fu still needs some work haha.

4DRZ

iTrader: (7)

Thanks for the link. I like the point about adding a bigger fan or radiator still leaves you with the issue of hot air trapped in the engine. Sometimes the simplest solutions are the best. Maybe I should just take the hood off for track days.

slartibartfast

iTrader: (7)

It's not trapped, it all goes out under the car. Of course, additional exit routes can only help as long as you pay attention to local air pressure.

A deeper radiator is the best first mod, in my opinion. The point isn't to keep the engine bay cool, it's to keep the engine cool. In addition, most folks don't realize how much cooling is provided by engine oil. An oil cooler not only prolongs oil life but also dumps a significant amount of heat.

4DRZ

iTrader: (7)

Agreed. I have had zero issues with my oil cooler. In contrast, my 2011 370Z saw steadily climbing oil temps in a very short time on the track.

So you think a radiator would be more beneficial than hood vents? Well, it would definitely be easier than trying to cut holes in the hood. Both a bigger radiator and hood vents would probably be ideal, but I will definitely do one before the other. Then again, would a bigger radiator be a problem in the winter when I don't want increased cooling capacity? I suppose the thermostat should take care of that.

4DRZ

iTrader: (7)

Has anyone tried running with the hood completely off the car? Just wondering how much that would reduce coolant/oil temps. It would definitely help me justify a vented carbon hood or not based on the temp. change. I wonder if it would goof up the aerodynamics or cause other problems at high speeds.

slartibartfast

iTrader: (7)

My mechanic runs a Miata at track events. We were discussing this subject, he said he ran one session without a hood and can't recommend it. Stuff flew up and out that wasn't secured because the stuff wasn't meant to be exposed at speed.

He suspects a vented hood is the way to go. I would insist on rain channels to keep electrical and electronics dry. Mechanic recommended louvers, and when I poo-poohed altering my hood, he said buy another hood and swap as needed.

4DRZ

iTrader: (7)

Hmm, I cannot think of anything under the hood that is not bolted down, but I bet some of the plastic trim might come loose at speed.

I asked a guy in our body shop about cutting holes in my hood and installing vents and he strongly recommended not to do that since it sacrifices the strength of the hood.

I think I will do the Mishimoto radiator 1st and eventually get the Seibon carbon hood that has the big vents. If I can find a way to block off the vents when I am not on track and make it look ok on my white car I would probably keep it on all the time. Otherwise, I can just swap it out for track days.

4DRZ

iTrader: (7)

Has anyone tried a coolant additive? I picked up Royal Purple Ice that claims temperature drops up to 20+ degrees. We shall see how well it works...

Surfnazi

We made a shelf that clipped onto the front near mesh to hold dry ice to see if it helped on my track m3

Bravo at

OP - I've removed the foam molding up by the battery and brake fluid areas sealing the hood and the engine shroud along the window. This opens up a 1 x 1.5 inch space on both sides for air to move out of the bay area sooner. I also remove the front license plate holder to allow the aerodynamics of the bumper to help move air into the engine bay a little easier. Both low cost and haven't hurt my day-to-day drives. Looking at removing the radiator shroud holding the fans and replacing w/14" or 16" mishimotos. But haven't figured out the wiring just yet.

I have coolers for P/S, oil and Trans. The area in front of the radiator is just packed with the CAI, coolers and the hoses. May have to locate the PS and trans cooler lower on the bumper.

The idea of removing the radiator shroud and just have the fans is to help get all the air in the bay as possible.

Another idea might be to exhaust the hot air coming out of the PCVs to somewhere else instead of back into the upper plenum.

I removed the hood blanket and also remove the Motordyne M370 plate above the plenum. Just ideas.

slartibartfast

iTrader: (7)

You're better off leaving the shroud and removing the fans.