Wheel/Tire Suggestions for track. What do you track with and why?
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From: Orange County
Wheel/Tire Suggestions for track. What do you track with and why?
Every other tire/wheel thread I have ever read is all about looks. And looks are important, but I need some rules of thumb about performance.
I read an article where they took a golf and put bigger and bigger wheels on it. The trade off occured around 18 inches where the drag on accelleration wasn't being made up by grip in the corners. 19"s and 17"s were slower than 18"s.
I want something that I can DD, and take to the track and tear it up. Want something wider/more flush than stock but not so flush that I'm rubbing while attacking corners.
So I was thinking of either 18" or 19" inch wheels with a 9 or 10" width, maybe 9s in the front and 10's in the rear, with whatever tires fit those. Probably michilen Pilot sport becuase I want a tire that wont completely shred as I DD it.
Maybe 19x9.5 all around so I could rotate the wheels.
What do you track with and why?
I read an article where they took a golf and put bigger and bigger wheels on it. The trade off occured around 18 inches where the drag on accelleration wasn't being made up by grip in the corners. 19"s and 17"s were slower than 18"s.
I want something that I can DD, and take to the track and tear it up. Want something wider/more flush than stock but not so flush that I'm rubbing while attacking corners.
So I was thinking of either 18" or 19" inch wheels with a 9 or 10" width, maybe 9s in the front and 10's in the rear, with whatever tires fit those. Probably michilen Pilot sport becuase I want a tire that wont completely shred as I DD it.
Maybe 19x9.5 all around so I could rotate the wheels.
What do you track with and why?
I DD + track my g, and I've had really good luck with Michelin Pilot Super Sports. They're Great on the track, and they have excellent tread life and do well in Nor Cal rain season.
I'm on oem sport 19in rims.
I'm on oem sport 19in rims.
KW V3's, Stillen sway bars, Cusco front strut tower brace, misc GTSPec chassis braces, y-pipe, Z1 MAF tubes + K&N panel filters, Z1 Motorsports Urethane transmission mount, Michelin Pilot Super Sports.
And the famous Corkscrew at Laguna Seca
G37 Corkscrew
And the famous Corkscrew at Laguna Seca

G37 Corkscrew
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From: Orange County
Aww. Your dropbox link isn't working on my work servers. Then again, they tend to block anything dropbox.
Great to hear that my tire of choice is a good one.
Do you know how many miles+track days you have gotten out of a set?
So like two track days and 10k miles or one track day and 15k miles? I guess I should ask for F/R miles because my fronts always last double what the rears do.
Great to hear that my tire of choice is a good one.
Do you know how many miles+track days you have gotten out of a set?
So like two track days and 10k miles or one track day and 15k miles? I guess I should ask for F/R miles because my fronts always last double what the rears do.
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^ That's really hard to say and compare to. Your suspension and alignment set-up, track set-up and even your driving style will dictate how long the tires will last in a combo like that.
Case in point, when i first started taking the G to the track, i was running Falken FK452s, it was fine for what it was. Then i switched to V12s, which worked even better. The second time i took it out there i had significantly more camber plus coilovers, braces and sways, the 2nd set of V12s didn't last as long as the 1st. I now run Conti DW and have only had 2 15m sessions with it, it works just as well as the V12s IMHO, at least with those light sessions.
On the 2nd set of V12s and the Contis i run a square set-up -- 255/45@18x9.5. I've ran all sets at the peak of summer in Texas. But, the track is considerably "easier" on the car than some other track like Laguna.
Case in point, when i first started taking the G to the track, i was running Falken FK452s, it was fine for what it was. Then i switched to V12s, which worked even better. The second time i took it out there i had significantly more camber plus coilovers, braces and sways, the 2nd set of V12s didn't last as long as the 1st. I now run Conti DW and have only had 2 15m sessions with it, it works just as well as the V12s IMHO, at least with those light sessions.
On the 2nd set of V12s and the Contis i run a square set-up -- 255/45@18x9.5. I've ran all sets at the peak of summer in Texas. But, the track is considerably "easier" on the car than some other track like Laguna.
I was in the same boat as you with my 350Z. I wanted a high, quailty wheel that can that the abuse of hard track use, aggressive street driving
, and look good. I ended up with a set of 19" HRE P43SC. A complete forged monoblock wheel. Now I know HREs are not cheap but they are the best in the industry. Now for my G37S sedan I didn't want to spend as much as I did for my HREs. So I went with a 3-piece Forgeline wheel. Another GREAT wheel that sees a lot of track time. If you're interested let me know I have a GREAT wheel guy that will take care of you. He is trying to get more Japanese Import sales.
Lastly, take a look at this video that explains wheels a bit more in detail. In another video he explained that he save several pounds going from a Cheyenne OEM 20" to a HRE 22".
, and look good. I ended up with a set of 19" HRE P43SC. A complete forged monoblock wheel. Now I know HREs are not cheap but they are the best in the industry. Now for my G37S sedan I didn't want to spend as much as I did for my HREs. So I went with a 3-piece Forgeline wheel. Another GREAT wheel that sees a lot of track time. If you're interested let me know I have a GREAT wheel guy that will take care of you. He is trying to get more Japanese Import sales. Lastly, take a look at this video that explains wheels a bit more in detail. In another video he explained that he save several pounds going from a Cheyenne OEM 20" to a HRE 22".




There is a set of HRE wheels! 

LOL