Basically I don't want a bull**** dyno result like the attachment....where I'm not pulling on a stock G37 until the engine really starts producing power (at least 4th gear, ~5300+ RPM).

I do mainly city driving so red lining my car at every light is not something I want to be doing to feel my mods.

This dyno is pulled from Z1 motor sports 400hp package
https://www.z1motorsports.com/z1-pro...ge-p-7223.html

Is the main reason for lower end torque/power loss due to the intake manifold? Could I do a similar set up to my G (minus the intake manifold) and except a relatively flat line dyno (maybe +10 to 30whp across the stock line)?



Proof to support your claims please (either logic or numbers/dynos)

If I said anything that doesn't make sense/needs clarification, call me out son

 

The VQ37 is milked from the factory for low end torque.

Only way to get more low end is to swap your engine out for a nice V8, or go down the stroked engine route which IMO is a waste of money.

 

this.

most bolt-ons- will just get you:

1. noise
2. bling
3. empty wallet

i added a axle-back exhaust for ~$250 for a deeper exhaust note and called it done.

the factory intake is a cold air intake, and the filters are ridiculously easy to replace. i may get some washable R2C panel filters when its time to replace the factory filters.

 

If you want more power before and at 4500rpms you are going to want cams and longer intake runners. Past those your going to be adding things that adjust things above that mainly.

 

Test pipes made my low end more lively. My intakes + CBE didn't do anything.

 

VQ motors won't have much on the low end unless you boost it

 

You can remove your interior other than that I have heard that adhesive performance is very effective.

 

you lost bro? :P


I did purchase K&N typhoon air intake system and they gave me a dyno sheet of a VQ engine from an 09 Z. It gave roughly 5-14 ft/lbs torque gains across the spectrum and anywhere from like 3-15 hp gain across the entire spectrum (4th gear). I did not feel a difference after install though. It sounded way cooler. Maybe the heat shields aren't as affected as you'd think?

 

i remember they tested a K&N filter vs a stock paper filter on the Porsche 928 forums. K&N lost power (a couple hp), but more importantly, did not actually filter very well.

no thanks.

 

Im looking at getting the 400hp package from Z1 to give the car a little more oomph. I dont want to go FI or do any major work on the engine. Anyone on here actually have this package installed on their G?

 

if you check out the dyno for that kit (as shown on their website) your car is actually less powerful at the lower bands (I think the crossing point is right around 5250 rpm).

For me personally, it doesn't make sense to use it. I don't hit over 5k rpm terribly often (maybe 2x every time to and form work 20 mins of driving)...and when I do, I'm not above it for long.

 

4.08 gears and the lightest wheels/tires would net a pretty decent boost.

 

If you want to spend some serious coin for real gains, naturally aspirated, the JWT cams are producing nice numbers with a big midrange boost. But it really requires dropping the motor out of the car to install the cams. Might as well do headers at the same time.

 

Well I am rethinking my mod choices. Right now its looking like a Z1 plenum, FI RHFC, and R2C CAI (have some generic garbage CAI right now). Any idea how much headers would add to that setup? Many people say the headers aren't worth the expense but I have yet to find an isolated comparison of a setup with and without headers. Oh, I also have a ARK CBE currently installed (love the sound).

 

Sounds a bit too $$$ for my blood