I just wanted to let everyone considering longtube headers on your 2013 motors might want to confirm that your studs can be relocated if you plan on using the ISR longtubes. I originally bought those but since they were out of stock I was refunded. So on a HUGE CHANCE I bought the OBX Longtubes on eBay. By the GRACE OF GOD they fit only because the flange had enough holes for my studs ( lol ). They went right in. The only thing you’ll need are new gaskets because the new ones are kinda trash, and plugs for the o2 location you don’t intend on using. I extended my upper o2 sensors since I’m tuned and want a better reading from my engine when it’s being tuned. Otherwise I’m honestly impressed with the quality of the welds and overall build of the headers. I’m even more impressed with the sound. I have a YouTube channel I’ll be uploading some clips to later on if anybody wants to hear what they sound like. Any questions feel free to ask.

 

Welds are not so good , looks like i did it. Also, this is do not look 304 stainless.

 

They looked pretty good to me for 600 shipped. Plus I started coating the right one with cerakote high temp paint. I did both of them and wrapped them with titanium heat wrap.

 

hopefully they will not crack and leak. Any improvement on butt dyno?

 

I haven’t been able to get a pull in yet since I have to get my steering wheel re aligned from when we put the headers in. I also did a VR30 transmission swap with a billet flex plate but I’m not sure how much those are doing in conjunction with the headers. So far it definitely seems like it’s a lot more responsive but I need a retune to dial everything in. I’ll do a separate post about the transmission swap and flex plate