Enginer Air Filters...
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Joined: Oct 2011
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Dead link.
Here's a little something.....
If ANY aftermarket air filter allows for more air flow (CFM) through it, simple physics says it will not trap as many air particles....
Will the difference ever be noticeable at wear of the cylinder walls/rings before 100+K miles....... Probably not.
Here's a little something.....
If ANY aftermarket air filter allows for more air flow (CFM) through it, simple physics says it will not trap as many air particles....
Will the difference ever be noticeable at wear of the cylinder walls/rings before 100+K miles....... Probably not.
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Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 205
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From: Concord,NH
Dead link.
Here's a little something.....
If ANY aftermarket air filter allows for more air flow (CFM) through it, simple physics says it will not trap as many air particles....
Will the difference ever be noticeable at wear of the cylinder walls/rings before 100+K miles....... Probably not.
Here's a little something.....
If ANY aftermarket air filter allows for more air flow (CFM) through it, simple physics says it will not trap as many air particles....
Will the difference ever be noticeable at wear of the cylinder walls/rings before 100+K miles....... Probably not.
Having the filtration efficiency of the OEM and those of aftermarket would allow for an informed comparison.
Thread Starter
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From: Los Angeles
Check out the study I posted on page 1 of this thread. The one done by oakridge laboratory.
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Joined: Jan 2012
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From: Concord,NH
I'm not sure that I agree with your logic. I know this is not what you are saying, but if one were to remove the air filter completely there would be no filter restriction and there still would only be a very small (relatively) amount of dirt getting into the engine unless you are driving through a sandstorm or live on a dirt road. Is that too much? Of course it is or engines wouldn't need air filters. The issue is how much is too much.
Having the filtration efficiency of the OEM and those of aftermarket would allow for an informed comparison.
Having the filtration efficiency of the OEM and those of aftermarket would allow for an informed comparison.
My statement was 100% true and proven. You didn't really say anything different than I did........
Thread Starter
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From: Los Angeles
This guy did his own independent study and I guess concluded the following:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/airfilter/airtest1.htm
In the end, paper or fiberous filters do remove more particles from the air before they enter your engine. The cotton gauze filters indeed offer better airflow. You have to decide for yourself whether you value ever last ounce of power or filtration. I cannot, nor will I make this decision for you. I do know that on a relatively stock car with a properly sized air filter, you indeed have very little if any performance to gain by swapping filtration material.
OK, I'll phrase it as a pointed direct question. What amount of dirt particles entering the engine is acceptable? How are you quantifying your 100% true and proven statement?
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Joined: Dec 2010
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From: Fort Worth, TX
UOAs for oiled filters such as K&N show higher Si content and there have been reported MAF fouling issues. BB, none of this is quantifiable, nor can any damage threshold be established. If anyone wants supporting posts/experience, BITOG is a wealth of information.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php
I personally use Wix filters (oil and air). This is because I have had good results using them for many years, they are reasonably priced, and they are readily available to me at O'Reilly Auto Parts. Just my personal preference.
Obviously you won't go wrong with OEM and I haven't found anything compelling other than their own marketing to convince me to use expensive reusable aftermarket ones. I think they are probably adequate. I really don't know because I haven't found anything authoritative and objective that makes me feel they give any real benefit performance wise. And I'd rather toss them and replace them than clean and re-oil. I was looking at the AFE ones but in the end decided to save my money for now and just keep replacing OEM ones.
Obviously you won't go wrong with OEM and I haven't found anything compelling other than their own marketing to convince me to use expensive reusable aftermarket ones. I think they are probably adequate. I really don't know because I haven't found anything authoritative and objective that makes me feel they give any real benefit performance wise. And I'd rather toss them and replace them than clean and re-oil. I was looking at the AFE ones but in the end decided to save my money for now and just keep replacing OEM ones.
Thread Starter
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From: Los Angeles
I personally use Wix filters (oil and air). This is because I have had good results using them for many years, they are reasonably priced, and they are readily available to me at O'Reilly Auto Parts. Just my personal preference.
Obviously you won't go wrong with OEM and I haven't found anything compelling other than their own marketing to convince me to use expensive reusable aftermarket ones. I think they are probably adequate. I really don't know because I haven't found anything authoritative and objective that makes me feel they give any real benefit performance wise. And I'd rather toss them and replace them than clean and re-oil. I was looking at the AFE ones but in the end decided to save my money for now and just keep replacing OEM ones.
Obviously you won't go wrong with OEM and I haven't found anything compelling other than their own marketing to convince me to use expensive reusable aftermarket ones. I think they are probably adequate. I really don't know because I haven't found anything authoritative and objective that makes me feel they give any real benefit performance wise. And I'd rather toss them and replace them than clean and re-oil. I was looking at the AFE ones but in the end decided to save my money for now and just keep replacing OEM ones.
Just an update. I went with the wix filters I bought from O'Reilly, very cheap. OEM filters were fairly dirty at 15k, I was kind of surprised. But then again so cal gets those santa ana winds every season blowing dust and **** all over the place. I think I might swap em every 5-10k. Thanks for the info BB
I check them at 5K and use my air compressor to blow off all the loose dust/debris that I can from back side to front side. Then check again at 10K. If they look good I leave them in another 5K. If they are pretty dirty to the point where blowing off the loose dust and debris doesn't get them looking pretty clean, I replace them.
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THIS^^^^^
Forget the CAI.... Nissan has developed the VQ37 engine to breath just about as best as it's going to ever, even in stock form.
$500-700.00 on a CAI is just plain silly. Much better spent somewhere else IMO. A $500.00 N20 kit, with about a small 50-75hp shot, would be MUCH more beneficial.... Price per HP.
Forget the CAI.... Nissan has developed the VQ37 engine to breath just about as best as it's going to ever, even in stock form.
$500-700.00 on a CAI is just plain silly. Much better spent somewhere else IMO. A $500.00 N20 kit, with about a small 50-75hp shot, would be MUCH more beneficial.... Price per HP.