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JWT Pop Chargers (My Custom Install)

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Old Nov 15, 2008 | 06:06 PM
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From: South FLA
JWT Pop Chargers (My Custom Install)

Upon first installing these the problem with the passengers side intake sitting much higher than the driver's side still exist. Mine was one of the ones that was said to have been "redesigned" to correct that problem. Well let me tell you, the problem has not been corrected, but the good news is, I'm going to show you how to correct it yourself.

To start off, I was actually impressed with the look and quality of these in person, I thought they looked a little cheap looking in the pictures I had seen, but in person they actually look very nice IMO. OK, I know there have been a ton of install and reviews on these so I won't bore everyone with more of the same, the point of this post is to show what I did to correct the issue with the driver's side intake sitting much higher.
This picture below shows the pop chargers when installed following the instructions that come in the box, notice how crazy high the passengers side sits? The bracket on this passenger's side sucks, it's not made correctly because if it was I wouldn't have had to do a "custom install" and things would line up correctly out of the box.


This picture below shows my pop chargers after I came up with my custom install. Notice how even the two intakes are, it's a night and day appearance and I'm sure it helps with power as the intake in down deep into the inlet area where the stock intakes sucked in air.



This picture shows you my secret as to how I was able to force the intake down low into the inlet area where the stock intakes suck in air. See the screw is put on with the bracket underneath rather than on top, for this I have to give a shout out to T-Rex2 who showed how to do this on an earlier post. But I found that doing just that wasn't enough, I wanted my intake lower, I mean all the way down like the driver's side sits. So I go a nut that fit on the bottom of the bolt and put it about halfway on and then hooked the bracket from the intake on. The nut I put on the bolt forces the intake to stay down and not pop back up higher like it wants to. The end result is a sick looking setup that is perfectly even with the driver's side. If anyone with these has any questions please let me know, I'd be happy to help you out.





BTW, these intakes do sound pretty damn sick under load at WOT over 4k RPM's, it sounds like a damn beast as the intake takes over my magnaflow exhaust sound with a sick azz growl. I was very impressed with the gains in pull throughout the entire powerband, without a doubt there is power over the entire band, yes it's my azz dyno, and but it's no placebo effect, the response and pull is very noticable.

Overall I couldn't be happier with the JWT's, easy install, nice power/sound addition, easy maintenance, and a great price from Andy at HPAutoworks.
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Old Nov 15, 2008 | 06:16 PM
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From: With your mom
Great idea looks much better
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Old Nov 15, 2008 | 06:16 PM
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Thanks for the review Steve. So did you notice gain down low as well?

I might be doing this soon for my install. Is the passenger side intake secured? Is there any rattle under load? I can't really see if the intake on that side is bolted down well.
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Old Nov 15, 2008 | 06:18 PM
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From: With your mom
I'd add another nut to the bottom of that bolt to lock it in place maybe a nylon self locking nut.
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Old Nov 15, 2008 | 06:25 PM
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With the original install, did you have any clearance problems or problems closing the hood.
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Old Nov 15, 2008 | 06:36 PM
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From: South FLA
Originally Posted by ucla bruin
Thanks for the review Steve. So did you notice gain down low as well?
I noticed better response and a smoother/touchier pull around 2000-3500 RPM, very surprised actually because I know I lost a little down around 2k with my magnaflow, so this was a nice surprise.


Originally Posted by shumby
I'd add another nut to the bottom of that bolt to lock it in place maybe a nylon self locking nut.
Yes, I actually just found another nut in one of my tool boxes that I'm going to put below the bolt to keep the intake from slipping around. It wouldn't be able to slide off as it can't go any lower, but the nut will help keep it from moving around just in case. Going to be a PITA to get this nut on there that low, but I'm sure I'll figure it out.

Originally Posted by G37Rider92649
With the original install, did you have any clearance problems or problems closing the hood.
No clearance problems with the hood using the out of box install, but it just looked terrible IMO. I also would think there would be a better power gain with the intake pushed all the way down because it's sitting in front of the stock air inlets where as before it was above the inlet somewhat.
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Old Nov 15, 2008 | 08:28 PM
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smart install.
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Old Nov 16, 2008 | 10:38 PM
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Very nice, Steve! I can't wait to get mine and install it using your method!

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Old Nov 17, 2008 | 05:36 AM
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quick question for ya. When I had the JWT's, for about a month, I noticed the heat shields were useless. After driving for 30-45 min, when the engine is hot, my heat sheilds were cool, but the metal portion and filter of the JWT were scolding hot. After driving hard for awhile, do you notice the same thing? To me, it meant the heat sheilds that everyone patiently waited on really don't factor in much in heat reduction, if the metal housing the MAF is hot as a skillet. was it just me?
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Old Nov 17, 2008 | 07:58 PM
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Originally Posted by AZg37
quick question for ya. When I had the JWT's, for about a month, I noticed the heat shields were useless. After driving for 30-45 min, when the engine is hot, my heat sheilds were cool, but the metal portion and filter of the JWT were scolding hot. After driving hard for awhile, do you notice the same thing? To me, it meant the heat sheilds that everyone patiently waited on really don't factor in much in heat reduction, if the metal housing the MAF is hot as a skillet. was it just me?
It's funny that you bring all this up because I am confused about this in my own way. I installed them Saturday and went out and ran the card very hard, went on multiple runs around town consistently pushing toward 7k RPM's before shifting to test the JWT's out and of course to show off to a few of my friends. At any rate after running hard for a bit I brought my G home and opened the hood in my garage and the metal pipes housing the MAF were very hot. I was actually surprised because I had heard many members here talk about how the pipes were consistently cool to the touch.

Well yesterday I was out on the highway, for about 30 mins, I then pushed the car hard several times when I got off the highway and when I got home and checked the pipes they were cool, that's right cool, not warm but cool. So today after work I again ran the car hard to see what would happen, and this time the pipes were warm, not hot at all but not cool. I could touch them and hold my hand on them without burning my hand etc.

So needless to say I'm very baffled by the great variance in the temp of the metal pipes. Why did they get so damn hot Saturday, and yet on Sunday when running hard they were cool, and now this evening they were warm?? I guess we'll need some others to chime in on this matter.
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Old Nov 17, 2008 | 10:16 PM
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look good man, very smart
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Old Nov 18, 2008 | 12:45 AM
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Originally Posted by SteveG37
It's funny that you bring all this up because I am confused about this in my own way. I installed them Saturday and went out and ran the card very hard, went on multiple runs around town consistently pushing toward 7k RPM's before shifting to test the JWT's out and of course to show off to a few of my friends. At any rate after running hard for a bit I brought my G home and opened the hood in my garage and the metal pipes housing the MAF were very hot. I was actually surprised because I had heard many members here talk about how the pipes were consistently cool to the touch.

Well yesterday I was out on the highway, for about 30 mins, I then pushed the car hard several times when I got off the highway and when I got home and checked the pipes they were cool, that's right cool, not warm but cool. So today after work I again ran the car hard to see what would happen, and this time the pipes were warm, not hot at all but not cool. I could touch them and hold my hand on them without burning my hand etc.

So needless to say I'm very baffled by the great variance in the temp of the metal pipes. Why did they get so damn hot Saturday, and yet on Sunday when running hard they were cool, and now this evening they were warm?? I guess we'll need some others to chime in on this matter.
Any idea on this...Anyone?
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Old Nov 18, 2008 | 01:49 AM
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for me it was never cool or warm if I drove hard, it was scolding hot. If it was a casual drive for about 20 to 30 minutes and I never floored it, they were warm. Any time I did a quick run or 2 where I got on the car and produced heat... BAM, the JWT's were scolding. They seemed ok for the normal daily driving, but under all conditions listed above, even the hard runs, the heat sheilds that are supposed to be the barrier were NEVER hot, not once. They seemed like a cheap gimmick to make buyers think they were doing something. Thats my opinion atleast.
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Old Nov 18, 2008 | 05:43 PM
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I think the pipes get hot once there's no longer sufficient air getting into the engine bay. The longer the car sits in traffic the hotter they get. Whenever I get home from work (mostly freeway) I get home, pop the hood and the pipes are cool. Try closing the hood and checking on them again and you'll find that they are scalding hot. The heat shields are just as hot. I think I might try to find a way to insulate the heat shields more so they don't get as hot. The heat shields are thin so they heat up quick.
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Old Nov 18, 2008 | 08:29 PM
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ya think it really depends on how much time/cruising between your runs. you need to run it hard then check right after.
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