im probably on this bandwagon now

 

Good write up. Nice numbers. Thanks.

 

nice ,,,

 

hi, thanks for a very nice post. my questions:
what gear was the dyno done?
miles between the ecu reset and jwt dyno?
have you reset ecu in the past before this time?
do you think just resetting ecu (w/o jwt) would've made any difference?

 

Wait....sorry to ask but what were the final gains? I saw two different answers

Was it 10Hp and 5TQ?

 

- The runs were done in 4th. All my runs have been in 4th gear which is what I am being told is recommended to keep less strain on the car. As long as you do all your pulls in the same gear your numbers will be ok.

- The ECU reset was done after the first pull with the JWTs on. The first pull without the ECU reset gave an additional. The tech then did the ECU reset to help the system out so it could adapt to the new intake quicker. We then did about 10 more runs on the dyno and got the consistant numbers.

- I have done the ECU rest in the past. Did it after the "break in period." And then did it again after the HFC install.

- I don't really see how just reseting the ECU would have made a difference just in the sense I always drive aggresively. I always accellerate to the speed limit very quickly. That is my driving habit which the ECU should account for. The ECU is a big limiter on our cars so it might have made a little bit of a difference but it would have equaled out again. I had a couple 13HP/10TQ runs with the JWT but it settled down to 10HP/5TQ. I gave the best runs on the stock intake but the truth is that was what the numbers started to show consistantly. We did 5 pulls with the stock intake and the last three where all the same numbers. They saved the best of those three but they were all equal except maybe a .01-.05 here and there. We did a lot of pulls though unti we got consistant numbers for both the stock and JWT dynos. It took about 10 runs with the JWT though to get consistant numbers because of the ECU reset (I think).

Hope that answers your questions.

The car settled down to 10HP and 5TQ so that would be the final gains IMO. I got some better numbers at first but they dropped a little after the system adapted.

 

bboy, you and PMS got quite different numbers...

you yielded 10HP and 5 TQ, she yielded 5HP and 7TQ
and the only different between you guys is that she has FI exhaust...

how much you think the JWT will pull as an only mod?

 

Did the shop say anything about your A/F ratios? They look a bit leaner with the JWTs. Is that still within a safe range? Did they stay consistent as the ECU adjusted to the intakes?

 

I really don't know and I am an enthusiast and no expert. Because of our exhaust being different which does affect the back-pressure (if that is what it is called) the numbers might be different for a stock car. I do not think it will be worse then the stock intake though but I cannot tell you if it will be like here numbers, mine, or ever greater. I am very confident though that it will be better than stock. Sorry that I cannot give you a concrete answer but I am no expert and can only give you my opinion. And as far as our different numbers, she does have the FI exhaust which is another factor in the equation. Now what we really need is someone in Cali to get these and take them to Technosquare so they can do that before/after reflash with both stock and the JWT intakes like they did with the Fujita.

I asked them about this and they told me it is within the safe limit. I am being told though that if I get this number down which can be done with an ECU reflash then my numbers will increase. I am no expert though so if anyone can answer this then that would be great.

 

Yeah, I'm no expert either, but here are Doug's A/F ratios from Technosquare for comparison. I'm curious to see how the JWTs will perform with a reflash, too:

 

Once I get my HFC and JWT I am doing a reflash ASAP...

 

i think jwt is most effective with hfc's i dont think the numbers will be this high on a fully stock car

 

I have seen a lot of talk regarding A/F ratios and have seen some numbers thrown around like 11.6. This is a pretty rich ratio. Is this the stock ratio?

I could see it being that for safety reasons due to the compression ratio our engine uses and the point that most people will be using gas in the 91-93 octane range.

I can tell you that I have a Buick T-Type and from the factory it has a 12.7 A/F ratio with approximately 14 lbs. of boost and they ran perfectly safe with stock set ups.

I am just curious as to these real rich numbers. Max horsepower in any car is made just before detonation (knock) occurs. So leaning a car out (probably the reason bboy's first run was higher hp/tq due to the ecu not compensating more fuel for the increased air intake) will create more hp.

I am just trying to enlighten my old school mind here....

Also, btw....bboy and pms....keep up the good work....there are lots of people here who don't post a lot (me) that take everything with a grain of salt and appreciate the effort members like you make to help all of us. Don't listen to the people talking crap.

 

No I don't fell like I loss any Low end Power. Seems like all across the RPM band I gained some. This is all just going off my Butt Dyno. But the car seems to Rev-up alot faster through the gears and above 3500-Redline. I Have a 6MT. My Car really pulls hard! Don't think it ever pulled this hard with the Stillen Intakes! But I want to do a Dyno! But can't do a stock to Injen run. But would just go off what other guy's were posting here and on Driver. Like average everyone was getting for a 2nd Gen G Sedan was like 265-267 WHP. So I'll just go off of that. I am not a noob I been modding cars for like 15yrs. I currently have a SC Stang. which I built myself. But Untill I do a dyno, there is no way we can really tell how much or if any HP's my car gained?? But it does feel alot stronger. LOL. Go Figure!

 

Here is my dyno when I was completely stock. AF was around 12.3