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Fujita intake Before and after dyno run.

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Old Dec 30, 2007 | 12:30 PM
  #31  
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I also belive that aftermarket intake alone will not make your car faster and it's much better off with K&N filter with modified stock air box with larger inlet opening to allow more airflow.

This is probably the best mod for your intake considering the tube size and length was optimally designed and tested from Nissan engineers. Also the material of the stock tube and airbox was designed such that minimize the heat soaking as well.

I'm not sure why people like to install after market intake with aluminum pipes but we really shouldn't be wasting our money on something that wasn't engineered and tested properly. It's our hard earned cash we are talking here and let's make wise decisions before jumping on to mod band wagons.

Cheers
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Old Dec 30, 2007 | 03:08 PM
  #32  
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^^ +1
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Old Dec 30, 2007 | 05:12 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Blk-G35
I also belive that aftermarket intake alone will not make your car faster and it's much better off with K&N filter with modified stock air box with larger inlet opening to allow more airflow.

This is probably the best mod for your intake considering the tube size and length was optimally designed and tested from Nissan engineers. Also the material of the stock tube and airbox was designed such that minimize the heat soaking as well.

I'm not sure why people like to install after market intake with aluminum pipes but we really shouldn't be wasting our money on something that wasn't engineered and tested properly. It's our hard earned cash we are talking here and let's make wise decisions before jumping on to mod band wagons.

Cheers
I was thinking about trying this myself, as soon as I can find some spare air filter holders for my air boxes - I want to keep the original ones unmolested and have a spare pair to modify. If anyone has an idea where I can get a good price for spare filter holders for my dual airboxes, please post here.
I had done this same thing with my single-intake airbox on my 2000 Maxima and according to both my ears and my Butt-dyno it was a nice improvement for price ($15 for a used filter holder from a junkyard); I got this idea from a Maxima owner's forum (forget which one) but they referred to it as the 'Ghetto Air box'.
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Old Dec 30, 2007 | 11:58 PM
  #34  
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usually the first dyno run is the lowest, the 2nd one usually gains a few HP... the base dyno listed is the first of your base from the number... atleast from what it looks like...

16 dyno's later is your new number....

what was the high base line dyno numbers?
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Old Dec 31, 2007 | 12:38 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by NoPainNoglory
I was thinking about trying this myself, as soon as I can find some spare air filter holders for my air boxes - I want to keep the original ones unmolested and have a spare pair to modify. If anyone has an idea where I can get a good price for spare filter holders for my dual airboxes, please post here.
I had done this same thing with my single-intake airbox on my 2000 Maxima and according to both my ears and my Butt-dyno it was a nice improvement for price ($15 for a used filter holder from a junkyard); I got this idea from a Maxima owner's forum (forget which one) but they referred to it as the 'Ghetto Air box'.
I came from a 2k2 max... and i know what you mean... maximas lost alot of low end but gained alot on the high end... I never did the GAB but I know it was the best option for the maximas... I hope Injen and JWT blow this intake away with gains all over !
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Old Dec 31, 2007 | 03:06 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Jason@Riverside
usually the first dyno run is the lowest, the 2nd one usually gains a few HP... the base dyno listed is the first of your base from the number... atleast from what it looks like...

16 dyno's later is your new number....

what was the high base line dyno numbers?
good eye Jason...yes we need to compare the high baseline and high modified
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Old Jan 1, 2008 | 11:26 PM
  #37  
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Guys, how would there be a loss in low-end or 1/4 mile times? He gained consistently across the power band! 9RWHP is a good gain for an intake but may not register in SOTP. IMO the dyno is a much better test of worth for a small mod like this, while 60' or traps maybe be marginally better there are so many other variables that can sway track performance one way or another. Add 100hp and hit the track for before/ after...
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Old Jan 1, 2008 | 11:36 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by 3des
Guys, how would there be a loss in low-end or 1/4 mile times? He gained consistently across the power band! 9RWHP is a good gain for an intake but may not register in SOTP. IMO the dyno is a much better test of worth for a small mod like this, while 60' or traps maybe be marginally better there are so many other variables that can sway track performance one way or another. Add 100hp and hit the track for before/ after...
Ya, the only way to test on this mod on a track is to 3 runs before you put on the exhaust, then change out the exhaust, reset the ECU, do some test runs, and then do 3 runs on the 1/4 mile all within the same day with the same conditions. You still won't get exact results but better then running a 1/4 mile on two different days with different conditions.
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Old Jan 2, 2008 | 09:17 AM
  #39  
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^^hmm, good points. I kept as many factors the same as i could (gas in tank, weight in car, launch method, tire pressure, etc), and did both runs within two weeks.

The temp was actually 10 degrees colder on the Fujita Runs, and i couldnt get the same time as i got being stock. Did 4-5 runs each time, but i'll hafta try again in spring.

I just thought i'd get at least slighlty better if not the same. Oh well, sounds great tho!
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Old Jan 2, 2008 | 09:31 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by 3des
Guys, how would there be a loss in low-end or 1/4 mile times? ...
heat soak- that's how...
You can't fully replicate real world conditions in a garage.
If this were not a short ram intake then the dyno numbers would likely be most sufficient in determining if this mod is worth the money. There is no doubt that this intake adds power under the right conditions. But it is common knowledge that short ram intakes and all cone filters for that matter are prone to heat soak. Thus A/F ratios would also be nice to compare. It would also be great to see all baseline runs and all post-install runs.

Last edited by KAHBOOM; Jan 2, 2008 at 09:35 AM.
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Old Jan 2, 2008 | 09:41 AM
  #41  
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but wouldn't heat soak be more prevalent in a car stationary on a dyno? (giant fan in front aside) On the street the car is moving and thus continuously bringing in fresh air. Now in bumper to bumper grid lock...
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Old Jan 2, 2008 | 01:06 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by 3des
but wouldn't heat soak be more prevalent in a car stationary on a dyno? (giant fan in front aside) On the street the car is moving and thus continuously bringing in fresh air. Now in bumper to bumper grid lock...
Yes thats why we kept the hood closed and thats why we did so many runs to try and make the car as hot as possible, all pulls were within 1whp of each other. I dont understand why all you guys are hating so much? Just trying to show you guys that the intake does in fact make power and would most likly make more on the street with the constant air power and not just one 30mph fan blowing on the car.
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Old Jan 2, 2008 | 01:42 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by evildarkness
Yes thats why we kept the hood closed and thats why we did so many runs to try and make the car as hot as possible, all pulls were within 1whp of each other. I dont understand why all you guys are hating so much? Just trying to show you guys that the intake does in fact make power and would most likly make more on the street with the constant air power and not just one 30mph fan blowing on the car.
we are not hating. we are trying to make sure that the test was done to have the most accurate results. why would we hate? we're all G37 owners and since there are not a lot of mods to choose from, a mod that delivers would be very welcome.

when it comes to mods and dynos there will always be skeptisism since there are so many people who rig dynos and/or give inaccurate readings that mislead so many people.

don't tkae the posts here as an attack. they are not. we are merely trying to ascentain that the test was done right and that ythe mod itself does indeed produce the power that was stated (which it looks like it did).
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Old Jan 2, 2008 | 02:57 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by evildarkness
Yes thats why we kept the hood closed and thats why we did so many runs to try and make the car as hot as possible, all pulls were within 1whp of each other. I dont understand why all you guys are hating so much? Just trying to show you guys that the intake does in fact make power and would most likly make more on the street with the constant air power and not just one 30mph fan blowing on the car.
No kidding.

You post proof (independent dyno runs) and some of these guys are still skeptical of the power gains

Jeez, you can't please everyone I guess. To each his own
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Old Jan 2, 2008 | 03:42 PM
  #45  
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Fujita's overall setup on the intake looks good but being the FIRST intake out makes me weary of the $300 investment as of right now. I feel like I can enjoy my G stock (performance wise and wheels wise) without getting tired of one bit of it for at least 8-10 mos and come summer when Injen, JWT, Nismo and other companies (knock on wood) come out with their intakes they will probably have studied what Fujita has done and improved upon it. Also intake systems have revisions done to them as well. So even Fujita may have a v2 down the road.
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