AC blowing hot
AC blowing hot
I'm sure this has probably been posted a billion times but,
To preface, I tried to refill my refrigerant, but after a while it the condenser turns off before I reach the right PSI (I got to 40~45 psi at 95° ambient). I thought maybe the clutch, but did an IPDM test and it clicks fine. Checked / changed fuses (but not relays) but still to no avail.
One last side note is the AC does work occasionally, and I noticed it was typically on cooler day / at night
Just wanted some answers before I start replacing everything.
To preface, I tried to refill my refrigerant, but after a while it the condenser turns off before I reach the right PSI (I got to 40~45 psi at 95° ambient). I thought maybe the clutch, but did an IPDM test and it clicks fine. Checked / changed fuses (but not relays) but still to no avail.
One last side note is the AC does work occasionally, and I noticed it was typically on cooler day / at night
Just wanted some answers before I start replacing everything.
You tested the IPDM and the compressor clutch works, but what about both fans?
If the compressor is stopping while recharging, then you likely overfilled the system. There is a high-pressure cutoff switch that turns the compressor off if pressure get too high. This can be due to overfilling or insufficient airflow across the condenser.
Re-test your IPDM and check that BOTH fans are running at both 50% and 100% duty. At full speed they should be roaring loud and moving a ton of air. If they test good then you need to have the system properly discharged and refilled with exactly 1.21lbs. of refrigerant. Anything more or less will impair system efficiency.
Re-test your IPDM and check that BOTH fans are running at both 50% and 100% duty. At full speed they should be roaring loud and moving a ton of air. If they test good then you need to have the system properly discharged and refilled with exactly 1.21lbs. of refrigerant. Anything more or less will impair system efficiency.
Last edited by ILM-NC G37S; Jul 18, 2023 at 09:53 AM.
Just finished checking both fans and they both run at the 50% and 100% speed. Then I'm guessing it must be overchargered.
Whats the best way to empty it and how do you get 1.21 lbs of refrigerant? It only tells me in psi
Whats the best way to empty it and how do you get 1.21 lbs of refrigerant? It only tells me in psi
This is not the easiest task for the home DIY'er. Unless you have the skills AND the specialized equipment, the best advice is to bring it to a AC specialty shop and have them recover, vacuum, and recharge the system. They will have to reclaim the refrigerant in the system, pull a vacuum to ensure system integrity (ie. no small leaks) and to remove any contaminants, and then charge with the appropriate amount of refrigerant. All of this requires special equipment that most folks do not have.
Last edited by ILM-NC G37S; Jul 20, 2023 at 09:14 AM.
This is not the easiest task for the home DIY'er. Unless you have the skills AND the specialized equipment, the best advice is to bring it to a AC specialty shop and have them recover, vacuum, and recharge the system. They will have to reclaim the refrigerant in the system, pull a vacuum to ensure system integrity and remove any contaminants, and the charge with the appropriate amount of refrigerant. All of this requires special equipment that most folks do not have.
Few users know I have the same issue im running into with my car, just have yet to get it fixed. Back in the day, maybe 3 years ago I was quoted $1300 for the repair, prob up since then. I believe I had a failing compressor, or condensor, or both.
Also my blower motor resistor aint working right, as my feet vents are not blowing even though you can hear it "blowing" theres no air
Also my blower motor resistor aint working right, as my feet vents are not blowing even though you can hear it "blowing" theres no air
Where is the air coming out of? The upper vents? Defroster? If you are not able to change the direction of the air flow then you likely have a issue with either the blend door(s) (motor/ actuator) or possibly the amp. If the blower "resistor" was not working the blower would be dead.
The IPDM/er self-test can check the compressor and fans.
You are a strong man to be able to drive without AC in this heat wave
The IPDM/er self-test can check the compressor and fans.
You are a strong man to be able to drive without AC in this heat wave
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I’ve experienced several issues with the AC in my son’s Ford Ranger where air would blow from the defroster but not the vents. On that vehicle, I fixed the issues both times by tracking down and repairing a vacuum leak. Not sure if this would apply to our cars as well. Thanks for all of the detailed insight @ILM-NC G37S
No. "modern cars" use electro-servo motors to control blend door actuation. On the G37, each blend door communicates with the AC amp via COM serial line. On the Ranger, as you noted, the temperature and blend are vacuum-servo controlled (mine needs a new condenser but at 24-years-old and ≈243K miles, I doubt I will bother. I just put a new clutch in last year and that will be it for this truck). I am getting too damn old for this crap.
Fun fact, in the really old days, "power door locks" were vacuum-controlled.
Fun fact, in the really old days, "power door locks" were vacuum-controlled.
Last edited by ILM-NC G37S; Aug 3, 2023 at 08:58 PM.
No. "modern cars" use electro-servo motors to control blend door actuation. On the G37, each blend door communicates with the AC amp via COM serial line. On the Ranger, as you noted, the temperature and blend are vacuum-servo controlled (mine needs a new condenser but at 24-years-old and ≈243K miles, I doubt I will bother. I just put a new clutch in last year and that will be it for this truck). I am getting too damn old for this crap.
Fun fact, in the really old days, "power door locks" were vacuum-controlled.
Fun fact, in the really old days, "power door locks" were vacuum-controlled.
This is not the easiest task for the home DIY'er. Unless you have the skills AND the specialized equipment, the best advice is to bring it to a AC specialty shop and have them recover, vacuum, and recharge the system. They will have to reclaim the refrigerant in the system, pull a vacuum to ensure system integrity (ie. no small leaks) and to remove any contaminants, and then charge with the appropriate amount of refrigerant. All of this requires special equipment that most folks do not have.
It’s not a DIY in my opinion. I just took my sons Ranger in to have his recharged because it wasn’t that cold (no leaks). Ends up it was under filled during the last service a few years back. Now it gets almost uncomfortably cold.
It can be a DIY if one has the proper equipment (or who has a HVAC tech for a neighbor). Most home DIY'ers do not have either. Technically, refrigeration systems are one of the most reliable as they are a sealed unit. Sure, fans and compressors can go bad, but for the most part as long as the refrigerant circuit remains closed, it will last almost indefinitely. Anyone who cares can ask me about our 193x refrigerator...
Refrigerant charges must be exact or system performance will suffer. Too much refrigerant and the TXV will not be able to meter the flow within the evaporator. In this case you risk slugging the compressor which can shatter the internals. Too little and the TXV/ evaporator can start to overheat. These overheated vapors then enter the compressor and, well, you get the idea. Not good. It has been well documented that these cars are VERY fussy with refrigerant capacity- there is very little margin to play with.
Pay the service fee, get it professionally done, and enjoy the cool air. After the miserable summer we've had thus far, it will be money well spent. Just my 10¢.
Refrigerant charges must be exact or system performance will suffer. Too much refrigerant and the TXV will not be able to meter the flow within the evaporator. In this case you risk slugging the compressor which can shatter the internals. Too little and the TXV/ evaporator can start to overheat. These overheated vapors then enter the compressor and, well, you get the idea. Not good. It has been well documented that these cars are VERY fussy with refrigerant capacity- there is very little margin to play with.
Pay the service fee, get it professionally done, and enjoy the cool air. After the miserable summer we've had thus far, it will be money well spent. Just my 10¢.
Where is the air coming out of? The upper vents? Defroster? If you are not able to change the direction of the air flow then you likely have a issue with either the blend door(s) (motor/ actuator) or possibly the amp. If the blower "resistor" was not working the blower would be dead.
The IPDM/er self-test can check the compressor and fans.
You are a strong man to be able to drive without AC in this heat wave
The IPDM/er self-test can check the compressor and fans.
You are a strong man to be able to drive without AC in this heat wave

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