Well I'm installing a csf radiator because my oem one is leaking and I figured I'll upgrade since I have to replace it anyway. I have a few questions. I'm assuming the hard lines that bolt on are the ac lines, I couldn't get them disconnected after the bolts broke off trying to loosen so I cut them. Can I run the radiator without them or will that cause issues with the rest of it?

 

Technically, no. Having the refrigerant lines disconnected from the condenser will have no effect on the radiator except that without any refrigerant in the AC system you may have issues with your radiator fans not turning on when needed.

Do you ever plan on running the AC? If so, I would suggest you find a way to seal off the "cut" refrigeration tubes. The longer the system is allowed to be exposed to atmosphere the more difficult repairs can be when the time comes.

 

When it comes to ac I can take it or leave it. My gutted charger doesn't have it either and in the summer I prefer the windows down anyway. I will try to seal off the lines though. With the fluid lost from the transmission cooling running through it do I need to worry about not having enough fluid? I know it's not easy to add fluid either.

 

^^You might reconsider when it's 90F+ with 100% humidity. Not to mention venting refrigerant to atmosphere is harmful to ozone.

 

It gets pretty hot around here in the summer but I've gone without ac before. As for refrigerant I'm not much of an environmentalist.

 

You will have to add transmission fluid to compensate for the amount that was removed in the old radiator plus any spillage. I would imagine the radiator holds close to a quart by itself give or take.

Technically, R-134a is considered a "safe" refrigerant that does not harm ozone but that does not mean it should be allowed to be freely discarded/ vented to the atmosphere, either. Responsible recycling practices should always be followed when dealing with these chemicals, as you alluded to. But... ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ what can you do?

 

You think I'd be OK just adding fluid to the new radiator. If not I guess I'll have to try to do it myself or take it to a shop.

 

You can try it. Once filled, just make sure the lines are capped tightly while you are maneuvering the radiator into place. I am sure there is a negligible amount that will be lost when all is said and done. As long as the "bulk" of the fluid is replaced a few drops here and there will not make or break the 7AT, IMO.

 

Good to know. We recently had our lg refrigerator repaired. Repair was provided free of charge under a class action settlement from LG. The tech replaced the bulk of the cooling system - compressor, drier and condenser. Prior to removing old parts he evacuated existing gas into some kind of specialty bag for recycling. Note, never buy an LG/samdung fridge with a linear compressor. This refrigerator was barely 5 years old and cost $2K+ in 2017.

Regarding the OP's transfluid loss during the radiator R&R, prefilling the radiator is an interesting idea. It's been a long time since I handled auto trans fluid, but best I recall it wasn't overly viscous. So slowly pouring it in using some means once the radiator is place makes sense. Loss indeed would be minimal.

 

Well I finished everything. Csf had pre mounted lines for the ac so I just removed the other end of lines I cut and plugged in the new ones. I don't know what exactly it is but that plug in on top of the canister looking thing isn't there on the new one.

 

This:

The "cylinder" (yellow arrows) is the liquid tank. I will not get into the specifics of the refrigeration process so lets just say it is a storage tank for the liquid refrigerant as it exits the condenser. On top of that is the "Refrigerant Pressure Switch" (blue arrows). Self-explanatory what that does.

 

Well I still got a leak somewhere. Got to work and my reservoir was almost empty, still have a coolant smell in the cabin too. Opened the radiator cap and that was still full at least. Heater core maybe?

 

Possible, but highly unlikely. You will have to check under the passenger carpets for any signs of a leak. Also, you can check underneath the passenger side of the car for any dripping. Normally, in summer months when the AC is running, you will have condensation dripping from the evaporator core. In this case, as you do not have a functioning AC system, There should not be anything dripping. If there is, it may indicate a potential leak in the cabin HVAC box (heater core/ evaporator housing). Again, possible but not probable.

Did you check that the infamous heater hose coupling is not starting to fail? Any dripping there could hit the hot exhaust and the fumes could easily enter the cabin via the fresh air intake in the cowl.

 

I did get z1 heater core lines, only reason didn't put them on yesterday was the hose clamps by firewall are the worst thing to get at with pliers.

 

Been there, done that. Plenty of busted knuckles and TONS of "F-bombs."

Just run your finger along the heater lines and especially the infamous plastic coupling. If there is any moisture, that is your culprit.

When you install the Z1 heater hoses, I hope you will be switching to a ¾” metal coupling? (I used brass, personally). Anything OTHER than plastic,