cars burning oil, but not out the tailpipe, its like, 1600 miles and its already brown. need temporary solution till I can try finding a fix

 

i've used it and didn't notice anything different than when i've used my other oils. I'm currently on Amsoil 5w30.

 

doesnt diesel oil have higher temperature resistance

 

I know deisel engine puts more stress on the oil and the oil has to deal with the soot byproduct that gasoline engine don't. But the additives aer slightly different that after i ran it for a cycle, i didn't care to continue running it.

For daily driving and hwy pulls, you won't notice anything difference. I don't feel color is a good indication. Send your oil in for analysis.

If you're use causes the oil to shear then i would say use a better oil, but I don't think diesel oil would out perform an oil geared towards high performance gasoline oil.

Here's a good article Motortrend wrote about using deisel oil in gasoline engines.

https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/di...soline-engine/

 

Be careful if the oil has a high concentration of zinc additives. Zinc will "poison" your catalytic converters.

Are you sure your engine's burning oil and not leaking oil?

 

id know if i was leaking oil.
dip stick is full and tail pipes arent leaking/burning blue

the oil itself has gone darker, than normal for 1700 miles.

motor itself has 170k miles though. its a shame nissan doesnt allow oil additives as stated in the manual

also running HFCs, shouldve gone test pipes

 

I'm confused. What makes you think you're burning oil?

 

how dark the oil already is

 

Dark oil is not generally an indication of oil getting into the combustion chamber.

Is the engine running rich? Is there adequate air filtration (e.g. are you running K&N filters that are in need of maintenance?) Is the PCV system functioning normally?

 

could be the pcv system. im running a makeshift breather can setup on 3 inch intakes that dont have ports for a closed system. Im too "scared" to drill holes in my tubes to make a "closed" system. Irrational fear of the hose connector getting sucked into my motor, also idk if itll be a good idea on 3 inch intakes, all that air.

i guess the term "burning oil" isnt the best, best way to put it is is my engine running too hot? Is there friction somewhere thats creating heat?

 

@BULL and I had a long talk about the pcv system, and believes it should be closed unless running boost. Gave me plenty of tips but I am just too scared to drill into my intakes

 

you can have a shop weld barbs on them. That's what i did with my 3" intakes. I also drilled into my first set of 3" intakes to install a threaded barb and didn't have any problems.

 

This is one of the ****ty side effects of no PCV. No vacuum being pulled on the crank case will leave these vapors in your crank case.
Text book example right here.

The issue is richness contaminating the oil from combustion + this fuel diluting the oil and also cleaning some of the burnt oil off the walls, lastly introducing oil leaks due to added pressures + oil dilution messes your seals up.

You should get some long silicone couplers and drill holes to those to see if you can connect the breather side to them and see if it improves your issues.

If so you should invest in proper barbs that will accept the OEM hoses.

Reason why I says this is Admin tuning intakes with properly welded barbs will sell faster and wont depreciate as much as in standard form

 

I just wanted to add the PCV system on these cars is excellent in the OEM N/A configuration. You want a vacuum on the crank case and it provides that even when WOT.

If you remove the vacuum you also loose some performance!

 

so we all agree run closed catch cans?