Car was being used everyday and working fine, I put in an Interstate battery last year reads 12.7 Volts. Everything works, except when I push the start button, I hear one click on the driver's (Left) side foot well. No errors in display. I swapped the battery fuse Dorman 924-082 from my Armada, same part #, no help. I'm thinking Starter, Relay, brake pedal switch, maybe steering lock module any other ideas would be appreciated, I need to get it out of my friends driveway. Is it ok to tow it 4 miles with another car in neutral if I go less than 10 MPH? I put this question in another thread. I tried jumping it with my wife's car too. I tried using Torque Pro with my Bluetooth adapter, no codes, or pending codes. Put new battery in key fob, I see yellow key indicator on solid , I don't remember if this is normal. I even tried they key fob in the slot. Its a 2010 G37X.

 

Is it possible you've triggered your car's immobilizer system? This from the owner's manual (2013):

Security Light Indicator
The security indicator light is located on the meter panel. It indicates the status of the INFINITI Vehicle Immobilizer System.
The light blinks after the ignition switch was in the LOCK position. This function indicates the security systems equipped on the vehicle are operational.
If the INFINITI Vehicle Immobilizer System is malfunctioning, this light will remain on while the ignition switch is in the ON position.
If the light still remains on and/or the engine will not start, see an INFINITI retailer for INFINITI Vehicle Immobilizer System service as soon as possible. Please bring all Intelligent Keys that you have when visiting an INFINITI retailer for service.

That's not very helpful... Maybe somebody in here knows how to reset this system.

 

I guess that's possible, I tried both key fobs, I read through the owners manual and didn't see anything about that.

 

#1, does the start button cycle through all the positions: LOCK>ACC>ON, or does it remain on LOCK?
#2) Is the steering wheel locked or can you turn it?

The key icon is a red flag to me. Your car is a 2010 so it falls into those years where the ESCL can fail.

There are several threads here and on 370z.com with various methods you can try to get the module to unlock. Some have had luck, others not so.

 

#1, does the start button cycle through all the positions: LOCK>ACC>ON, or does it remain on LOCK?
#2) Is the steering wheel locked or can you turn it?

The key icon is a red flag to me. A steady YELLOW Key= issue w/ iKey system, while a steady RED key= Immobilizer engaged/ or Immobilizer system issue (depends on key (start button) status).

Your car is a 2010 so it falls into those years where the ESCL (Electronic Steering Column Lock) module can fail. A steady yellow key almost always points to this module failing/ getting stuck. This is why you are still not able to start the engine even with the fob inserted into the key slot.

There are several threads here and on 370z.com with various methods you can try to get the module to unlock. Some have had luck, others not so.

 

Yes it cycles through I'm Pretty sure all three, I'll check again. Steering Wheel is NOT Locked.

 

At one point I had the Yellow Key and Red key on solid, I no longer have the Red key on, when I lock the car with the fob, the red key flashes for a little while.
Should I try to see if I can get the wheel to lock?

 

So, the steering wheel is NOT locked and the YELLOW key icon stays illuminated/ solid?

Does everything work w/ the button in ACC or ON?

Do you have the 2nd fob? Tried it?

 

Automatic, I can go through each gear and it shows it change on the display so its not the shift interlock. Yes tried both key fobs.
I read about the ESCL, it says cut the brown wire to it, or remove the fuse. Can anyone tell me which fuse it is? Hopefully its inside the car and not the one next to the battery, that one's a hassle to get out and its 8 degrees today.
I got some info on resetting the immobilizer, but not specific to the G37. Can someone point me to the right place on this?

 

The fuse is in the box next to the battery. However, I would suggest that you NOT pull that fuse until you get the car up and running.

 

I read the 370Z thread. If I cut the brown wire, shouldn't I disconnect the battery first? Is the brown wire on the G37 the same as the 370Z?

 

Whether you pull the fuse or cut the brown wire- all that does is cut power to the mechanical portion of the module (the actuator). This DOES NOT remove the security function of the module. This is why you only perform these actions when the CAR IS RUNNING/ OPERATIONAL.

If you cut the wire/pull the fuse now, under a "NO CRANK / NO START" condition, the car may never crank.

You mentioned that it was very cold (8 degrees). I would try using a blow dryer and heat up the steering lock module. Then, while it is warm (and lightly tapping it with a mallet), try cycling the ignition.You may also have to cycle the module- it is risky, but at this point you have nothing to lose. I know the conditions are not ideal, just do the best you can...

In the event the car does start up, THEN you can cut the brown wire/ pull the fuse...

From my copy of the FSM/ wiring, it is the only brown wire on that 8-slot connector.

 

Thank you for your all your help, just got back from the car. Here's what I found. It does Cycle from ACC - ON and LOCK when I either lock the door with the fob or the switch on the door.
I do not hear any noise from the electronic steering lock module. I tried moving the wheel back and forth and it moves freely. I think the immobilizer is working properly, when I lock the doors the red key goes on solid and both directional indicators light, then the red key blinks slowly after a little while. I accidentally hit the panic button and the alarm went off so I pressed unlock on the fob and it went off. It will be above freezing tomorrow, I'll try tapping the unit, I did see the connector with the brown wire. Battery is down to 11.9 volts so I disconnected it, I'll put the jumper cables on it tomorrow. Do you think I can tow it home the 4 miles if I put it in neutral and go under 10 MPH, I'm worried about damaging the tranny or AWD? It will be a lot easier if its in my heated garage? If I get a used steering lock module, and swap it will I be able to start the car or do I need to have it programmed to the vehicle?

 

I can not advise you 9ne way or the other on towing. Rule of thumb is that you do NOT "flat tow" any AWD drive vehicle that does not have a neutral setting for the transfer case. The system in the G uses a fluid-type coupling in the transfer case. Sometimes you have to do what you have to do, I am just not familiar enough with the ATTESA system to advise.

If the ESCL is the issue, it vlcan be swapped out with no programming needed. It is a PITA to get access, but doable.

Does the ESCL cycle or does the steering wheel remain unlocked when the car is locked?

 

I don't hear any noise out of it, stays unlocked when I lock it, I'll try tapping it tomorrow. I see Dorman makes a replacement part 601-037 but when I went on their site, doesn't work for the X (AWD) model. Too bad $325 on Rockauto. It comes with an OBDII dongle to reprogram the key fobs, not sure why that's needed. Funny thing is we had a couple come out for a month to go skiing, so I lent them the car for 4 weeks, they gave me $400. I'm sure it would have happened to me soon though, car has 88K miles.

Tough call on towing it too, I'll ask Infiniti Monday, but I'm sure they'll say no.

Good video here on the install.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...t=1506&jsn=349