Hi, a complete newbie to my G37(s). I have two G37s that I won at auctions both with no keys. One will be a later project due to the damage but my main I am having power issues. My main goal right now is to just be able to get the scan tool on it. I have power to the headlights, brake lights, power seats, door locks, the park light on the shifter, the lock light on the ignition, and the dome light that I know for sure. I've tested three locations of fuses, the fuse box next to where the driver's feet would be (left), and the two in the engine compartment right side. I wasn't able to find any that were blown even the fusible links I don't even have a flashing security light or key animation. Except for the headlight light, the navigation screen/ radio and instrument panel are out. The damage to the car was very minor to the front and only took out the left headlight and bumper cover. Any help is very appreciated and thanks you for your time in advance.

The car in question is a 2011 G37S coupe and the future project is 2010 G37S coupe.

 

Your question is a bit confusing. When you connect your scan tool it is not getting power to it? If that is the case then it would only work when the car is on the ON position. But, you do not have keys for either one of them.

 

Hi Said Amir, yes, no keys came with either car but I am able to get a scan tool on the 2010. I'm not sure if it's just a fluke or what, that I'm able to and scan on it. I had a locksmith come out to make keys for this car and another car and he was unable and he said it was possible that the BCM was damaged. I'm not sure how replacement keys are made using an autel but that was what he was using and he was aware there was no current key. I guess my next goal should be just power where it should be with no key, at least the dash foot on the break animation would be nice but the ultimate goal is to make a key and get it running. I'm not 100 percent sure what should be working with no key and I figure this is one of the best places to find out. I hope this helps clear up some of the confusion.

 

For the sake of clarity please keep these two cars separate! Forget the project 2010, for now- as that appears to have physical damage, yes? What was the initial "issue" with the 2011?

Without a working key very little is going to power up. Some components are "always hot" independent of key status. On the car in question- the 2011 (?)- does the clock work? And does the key slot light up?

From what I gather you have a power or ground issue. If you haven't already I would suggest you download the factory service manual for your car. Focus on sections:
BCS (Body Control System);
PCS (Power Control System);
PG (Power & Ground); and
SEC (Security).

Do you have a multimeter? I would electronically (not just visually) check the fuses (left driver footwell) and also make sure the fuse block is getting power from the battery. Then, we can move up the diagnostic ladder if need be.

 

Hi ILM-NC G37S, yes, the 2011 clock does work but the key slot does not light up. When the 2011 was delieverd, it was listed as a start, with no keys. I've never seen that before from an insurance company It was a theft recovery with damage to the driver's headlight, fog light, and bumper cover. I did buy the pdf for the factory service manual but it's for the sedan if that matters and I bought a year's worth of the Mitchell online. I do have a multimeter and I did pull each fuse and check continuity. I was really hoping it would be that easy. I checked the voltages and I do have voltage 12.6 on 7-11 fuses (left driver footwell) but nothing on the others. Previously I had actually tested using the other fuse block from the temp parts car but nothing changed. I also checked that I did have power on the E101 and E102 going into it. I also checked things visually as much as I could. The car is actually from Raleigh and there is no rust or corrosion that I have seen so far and no evidence of rodents or anything.

 

https://www.myg37.com/forums/general...-help-pls.html

 

No key= no start, no ACC, no ON, nothing (except those components that are always "hot." If the car was stolen without the key then it is possible NATS/IVIS (immobilizer) has kicked in.

Unfortunately, I'm out running errands and dont have my iPad handy... that said, the link for the factory manuals I posted above is free for everyone. No need to spend money needlessly. I would navigate to your specific car and download from there. Even though the Coupe and sedans are practically identical... there are a few electronic differences...

Please clarify "7-11" fuses... narrow down the specific circuit(s) that do not have 12V, then we can check the relays and fusible links that supply those circuits directly from the battery.

Also, the link that Said Amir posted may be helpful to you in this case as well. Make sure the ESS (Extended Storage Switch) is not pulled. This link explains the ESS and how to check it.

Bare with me, later today when I'm done for the day I'll pull the iPad and look further.

 

Hi again and thank you both for your help so far! I removed the ESS switch and re-tested it to be sure because it had been a while. The fuse had continuity and also 12V. I was actually able to access the number 5 (Bose AMP) which also had voltage. The ESS is the number 6 (ELEC PARTS (BAT)) and it also had 12 V. 7 is Stop Lamp, 8 Bose Amp, 9 Push Eng Start, 10 Room Lamp, 11 Meter (Bat) which all have 12V on the fuse box. I also check to see if anything I hadn't tested actually had power in the car, the hazard lights do work, and also the visor lights.

 

Based on your findings, everything on that side of the equation seems to check out good. The only other thing I can suggest you check is the BCM (passenger side/ under dash/ right footwell area).

a) First and foremost check for any water/ dampness under the carpet;
b) with the battery disconnected, unplug all of the connectors and check for any signs of dirt, corrosion, or damaged wires;
c) with the battery connected, start probing for power/ ground.
(This is where Section BCS of the manual comes in handy).

If the key slot has power (fuse #9 good) but is not blinking (asking for key) then one of two things are at fault: BCM error or IVIS activation.

If IVIS has kicked in, only the dealer or someone with the Nissan CONSULT3 software tool can reset the car. The only reset procedure available to "us" requires the original key(s) which are, because the car was stolen, lost. If you had the original key...

However, at this point I am leaning more toward a BCM issue as not only is the slot not blinking, you also do not have the flashing "security" light on the cluster nor the "key" icon illuminated.

Hopefully other members will have other ideas, thoughts, tricks?

 

I unplugged the BCM and checking pins 1 and 11 for voltage and they both had 12V and also checked for continuity on pin 13 and it tested fine. Everything was dry and the BCM and everything around it looked like it had never been touched. Does this confirm that the BCM is bad? Having asked that, is it possible to use the known good BCM from my other car to test? Are 2010's and 2011s compatible?

 

At this point I'm running out of ideas... it appears that IVIS has locked the car down... as mentioned before, without the proper software and interface, there is no way a home DIY'er can release IVIS- at least not that I am aware of...

Technically the BCM's are interchangeable as long as the two cars are identical in features/ packages. A quick visual comparison of the wires should confirm this. HOWEVER, being that you don't have any working keys for either the 2010 or 2011, you will run the risk of IVIS locking that BCM down as well. So "swapping" in this case I believe would be a moot attempt.

On the 2010, does the SECURITY light flash (on the cluster) and/ or do the lights on the key slot blink?

Also, not to throw another monkey into the muck, but I just realized that the 2011 may or may not have the steering wheel lock module (ESCL) which has a deep history of failures thereby locking cars down. There is a gray area as to when exactly Nissan dropped the lock module.

This is going to get messy...

 

I was going to leave the update about the 2010 but I didn't to make my posts any more confusing but I went through both cars completely checking things out yesterday evening and was extremely excited because I do have a key to the 2010 and it will try to start but things are pushed back and I don't want to risk anything. This really helped narrow down what should be working or not working without a key. I was really confused why one let me connect my scan tool and put it in the on position, it was because the key was stuck between the passenger seat and the center console, It was actually listed as a no key, I got really lucky. With all that being said, the 2011 still does not have a key but does it make the 2010 a better candidate to try and switch its BCM to the 2011 if they match okay? If it can fix the key slot, I'll order another BCM.

 

I honestly am not sure if it is that simple. It is your call on that one.

 

Thank you very much ILM-NC G37S! Apparently, I am on a roll with luck, as far as I know, everything is working now as expected. The key slot blinks and I get the key animation. I did disconnect the battery again and I don't plan on leaving it in there. I'm not sure if there is anything else I should check before I take it out. Any suggestions on the best route for BCM's, I had seen a company online that repairs, or would eBay or a dealer be a better option? This has been a great experience as my first time using online car forums. Thank you again!

 

So the 2010 BCM "theoretically" worked in the 2011? So far so good then...

I have zero experience with these "repair services" so I can not proffer a opinion there. A new BCM from Infiniti will run $6-800 depending on where you buy.

I would record the part number from the 2011 BCM (284B1-?????) and do a eBay search for a used one. If there is a local pull-a-part near you that would be a option. Additionally, there are several online parts recyclers that you may want to look into (LKQOnline, carpart.com, etc.) I prefer eBay personally, but you have to pay attention to the details with those listings.

It is very important to match body style (2-4dr.), chassis (AT/MT) and trim level. If you stay within 2010-2014 you should be fine as to year. Just remember that the replacement WILL have to be programmed WITH NEW KEYS to the 2011 before attempting to start the car.

Please keep us updated with your progress.