When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Wanna start changing my own oil since I have a garage now
Know basics of oil change
What would I need to make it easy every oil change
Oil
Oil filter
Oil filter wrench
Hydraulic jack ??
Jack stands better or the Ramps
Car is lowered with coilovers 26.5 Fender To Ground
With the car lowered would ramps be ok
Ultimately whats the best synthetic oil besides royal purple
How often should I change oil
3000 or 5000
Ramps FTW! I made my own out of stacked strips of OSB wood, and you can make them pretty long so you can have an easier time w/ a lowered G.
These aren't mine,but this is the general idea~
And as far as oil, I've been using Pennzoil Platinum 5/30 full synthetic and the larger filter for Infiniti/Nissan 4.5/5.6 liter V8s, it's quite a bit bigger than the small V6 filter and still easily fits under the splash pan, I've used M1, Bosch, and have settled on the WIX filters. I change my oil every 6-7k miles and have always had excellent UOAs from Blackstone. FWIW, you ask 5 guys here you'll probably get 5 different answers regarding what oil works best With full synthetic you can easily run 7k miles between oil changes, if you plan to change every 3k miles you can get by w/ regular Dino oil.
Oh, and I don't use an oil filter wrench, just tighten down as much as you can by hand and it will be fine, and then you can still remove it without a wrench when the time comes. You will want to stock up on crush washers and be sure to put them on the right way. Here's the orientation w/ the before on the left, and the after on the right (in case you've never used one before)~
Ramps FTW! I made my own out of stacked strips of OSB wood, and you can make them pretty long so you can have an easier time w/ a lowered G.
These aren't mine,but this is the general idea~
And as far as oil, I've been using Pennzoil Platinum 5/30 full synthetic and the larger filter for Infiniti/Nissan 4.5/5.6 liter V8s, it's quite a bit bigger than the small V6 filter and still easily fits under the splash pan, I've used M1, Bosch, and have settled on the WIX filters. I change my oil every 6-7k miles and have always had excellent UOAs from Blackstone. FWIW, you ask 5 guys here you'll probably get 5 different answers regarding what oil works best With full synthetic you can easily run 7k miles between oil changes, if you plan to change every 3k miles you can get by w/ regular Dino oil.
Oh, and I don't use an oil filter wrench, just tighten down as much as you can by hand and it will be fine, and then you can still remove it without a wrench when the time comes. You will want to stock up on crush washers and be sure to put them on the right way. Here's the orientation w/ the before on the left, and the after on the right (in case you've never used one before)~
I appreciate the info - that wood ramp does the job 👍
Jack, to lift up car.
Jack stands, because it's not recommended to leave car lifted only on the jack. Never had it happen, but you never know if the hydraulics will malfunction. Better safe than sorry.
You could get ramps to replace jack+jack stands. If you do get ramps, try to get ones that start off low and slowly incline. Lowered cars + steep ramps don't go together.
Oil filter removal tool is optional to most people. I chose to purchase one. I always hand tighten my filters, but whenever it comes time to take it off, it never budges. I always do my oil changes after a 15-30 minute joy ride, so the heat probably makes the oil filter expand a little? I don't know what could be the reason.
Anways, there's 3 different types of tools to remove the oil filter. I've tried all 3, and I prefer the third one.
I use full synthetic 5W-30 Mobil 1 Extended Performance with the Mobil 1 M-108 Extended Performance oil filter. Everyone will have different opinions on this, this is just what I've used.
I'm 100% city driving and I tend to beat the heck out of my G, so I stick to a 3500 mile interval.
Last edited by Melophile; Jun 23, 2017 at 02:10 AM.
I prefer this one too...if the filter ever giviesyou trouble you just crush it a little and twist...easy off...
you will also need a 14mm socket for the drain plug and a 10mm socket to get the undershield off
I used royal purple for very long time... I became less impressed with it especially at higher mileage...Redline has been much quieter, and Motul 300v for track season
Wooden ramps ftw...cheap and much more stable than plastic ramps and a virtual necessity if you are lowered even if you are going to do work on jack stands just to get the jack under the car (even with a super low profile jack)
Oh, and I don't use an oil filter wrench, just tighten down as much as you can by hand and it will be fine, and then you can still remove it without a wrench when the time comes.
Not everyone has the same strength to properly tighten an oil filter by hand?
The instructions call for tightening by hand and using the proper wrench to tighten another 1/8 turn.
By not tightening the oil filter properly leaves one vulnerable to oil filter leakage and a possible destroyed engine.
Removing an oil filter using the proper tool is not a problem. Takes a few seconds.
ramps take up a lot of space when not being used - i prefer to only jack up the driver's side (with a supporting jackstand) - the oil drains toward the passenger side, so you'll get more old oil out that way as well.
also ...
- a box of disposable rubber gloves
- roll of paper towels
- a tarp or oil drip "sheet" (looks like a large cookie sheet to put your oil catch container on to catch any drips or spills)
- stuff to detail the engine bay while the oil drains
ramps take up a lot of space when not being used - i prefer to only jack up the driver's side (with a supporting jackstand) - the oil drains toward the passenger side, so you'll get more old oil out that way as well.
also ...
- a box of disposable rubber gloves
- roll of paper towels
- a tarp or oil drip "sheet" (looks like a large cookie sheet to put your oil catch container on to catch any drips or spills)
- stuff to detail the engine bay while the oil drains
I used an old plastic shower curtain that the wife was throwing out
Good point Telco! I've hand tightened the filters for almost 40 years without any issues, but YMMV, and there may be incidents where you can't get to that area and apply enough force.
Only time i've had an issue with hand tighten was on my prelude, but I think this had to do with it's odd orientation on the aft of the engine and being quite a tight squeeze.
Anyone here have the Fumoto oil valve? Friend at work runs them on all of his cars and said they have been great. We have plenty of clearance to have them installed, and draining with a clear hose attached would be much easier. FumotoŽ USA | Quick and Easy Engine Oil Drain Valves
Only time i've had an issue with hand tighten was on my prelude, but I think this had to do with it's odd orientation on the aft of the engine and being quite a tight squeeze.
Anyone here have the Fumoto oil valve? Friend at work runs them on all of his cars and said they have been great. We have plenty of clearance to have them installed, and draining with a clear hose attached would be much easier. FumotoŽ USA | Quick and Easy Engine Oil Drain Valves
Just saw video & this looks so easy & convenient
Thx for the info 🤙
Those ramps look like they weigh 100lbs or more! Jack and stands for me. When do you guys rotate your tires? I do it every oil change, and can't do it with ramps. Really only go 3k on the mobil1. I fully expect this to be too soon for ALL of you but, I only drive it like 6k over the summer so it works for me.
With full synthetic you can easily run 7k miles between oil changes, if you plan to change every 3k miles you can get by w/ regular Dino oil.
