Clutch Adjusment?
Clutch Adjusment?
I apologize in advance if this is in the wrong section...
So I was showing my new 6MT to my friend who has a 350z and I bring up how I really dislike the long travel and high engagement of the 37's clutch. He tells me that you can adjust this. So I am wondering has anyone adjusted the clutch on their G37? How did you go about doing this? I have bad knees from too much basketball and a shorter travel and lower engagement on the clutch would help me tremendously.
So I was showing my new 6MT to my friend who has a 350z and I bring up how I really dislike the long travel and high engagement of the 37's clutch. He tells me that you can adjust this. So I am wondering has anyone adjusted the clutch on their G37? How did you go about doing this? I have bad knees from too much basketball and a shorter travel and lower engagement on the clutch would help me tremendously.
It's a hydraulic clutch so it's not like there is "slack" in it.
The pedal has a long throw and short engagement area on purpose -- to make what would be a really really heavy pedal be a whole lot lighter through Hydraulic multiplication: http://science.howstuffworks.com/hydraulic1.htm
Long story short -- No, you really cannot adjust it without sacrificing something else (like complete disengagement in all conditions when the pedal is fully pressed). The only way you could *really* adjust it would be for it to have a shorter travel, different hydraulic multiplication factor, and be way harder to press. I don't think any of us would really prefer that
On the plus side, I read in the twin turbo g37 thread that the stock clutch took almost 600HP before it slipped.... heavy duty.
The pedal has a long throw and short engagement area on purpose -- to make what would be a really really heavy pedal be a whole lot lighter through Hydraulic multiplication: http://science.howstuffworks.com/hydraulic1.htm
Long story short -- No, you really cannot adjust it without sacrificing something else (like complete disengagement in all conditions when the pedal is fully pressed). The only way you could *really* adjust it would be for it to have a shorter travel, different hydraulic multiplication factor, and be way harder to press. I don't think any of us would really prefer that
On the plus side, I read in the twin turbo g37 thread that the stock clutch took almost 600HP before it slipped.... heavy duty.
There was a DIY on it in g35driver.com somewhere.
When I was first new to the car I also disliked the high engagement point.. but after a few months it becomes 2nd nature and you really dont think about it too much thereafter...
When I was first new to the car I also disliked the high engagement point.. but after a few months it becomes 2nd nature and you really dont think about it too much thereafter...
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the only other mt car i driven was a s2k and i sucked at it. stall out more times in one day than i have the g for 3-4 months. however, that was when i first started to drive mt, so that had to do something with it.
I said it on G35driver, I'll say it here. These adjustment kits are "proven" to work but don't have any long term analysis or gurantees. Every car is different, just learn to drive the G--don't risk your clutch over a few inches of travel.
To the OP: I feel your pain man, but I've learned to just drive the car because I don't want to kill my clutch.
To the OP: I feel your pain man, but I've learned to just drive the car because I don't want to kill my clutch.
Did that on my G35 and it only lasted for a month or two before the clutch self adjusted back to its normal state...You guys who think the G37 clutch is too tall must not have owned a G35...This thing is MUCH improved over my G35...No exaggeration...


