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I’m trying to find out if the 2013 Infiniti G37 has the same ESCL (Electronic Steering Column Lock) problems that affected earlier models.
I’ve noticed that when my car is turned off, the steering wheel does not lock at all. From what I understand, that could be related to the ESCL system. The car starts and runs fine right now, but I’m looking into this as a preventative measure before it potentially becomes a bigger issue.
Has anyone with a 2013 experienced ESCL failure? Is this something I should proactively address, or is the 2013 model year less affected?
There are very few cases where 2013's suffered from this issue as Nissan made the "quiet" change sometime in 2012 but it is not out of the realm of possibility. It all depends on where you car was on the assembly line when the change took place.
That said, being your steering wheel never locked likely indicates your car does NOT have the ESCL module installed. However, if you want peace of mind, check the IPDM/er under the hood. Look for a 10amp fuse in the slot indicated:
IF there is NO FUSE in that slot you are golden. IF there ISa fuse in that slot then I would recommend that, with the engine RUNNING, pull the fuse.
Last edited by ILM-NC G37S; Feb 18, 2026 at 12:38 PM.
I pulled this fuse years ago, or maybe the dealer recommended pulling it during a service but I cannot recall the last time my steering column locked, so bear with me.
If the unit malfunctions and locks permanently, the only solution is to replace the ESCL unit correct? The car will not start with it locked. In my Ranger, I can pump the brake and eventually hear the solenoid click (needs to be replaced), then the car starts. Is the G similar? Or there other tricks to get it to engage once so that you can start the car and pull that bloody fuse ASAP?
Is the sole purpose of this locking anti-theft? On our cars that's of course a moot point as most high schoolers can make key fobs for the car with a little online research. On my old 200K mile Ford Ranger, I'm not worried about theft so I may look into a similar hack for it.
Last edited by socketz67; Feb 22, 2026 at 11:56 AM.
The ESCL was designed to add a additional layer of "security" by physically locking the steering column. The problem arose when certain batches of the modules had manufacturing defects/ issues whereas the plastic gears would get "gummed up" or jammed and not satisfy the "UNLOCKED" condition. When the ESCL fails, the car is bricked. Period. Internal to the ESCL are a series of microswitches that have to be "made" in a certain state before the car will even begin to read the IVIS code, unlock the column, and initiate the engine start protocol. There is no workaround short of replacing the ESCL which, as many have experienced, is costly and aggravating. Believe me, if there was a workaround it would have been discovered and exploited long ago.
This is another issue to where Nissan acknowledged the issue and "made it right" for most consumers while Infiniti totally ignored the issue and pretty much screwed the affected cars. There were various recalls/ NTB's issued (attached below) to replace the ESCL with the ESCM- a module that essentially did the electronic verification of the ESCL but did not physically lock the column. Infiniti on the other hand...crickets... Infiniti never addressed anything (unless you were under warranty). Their answer: replace the ESCL for ≈$750+/-.
To add insult to injury, the "emulator boxes" that one could get from Amazon and the like only work on Nissan. Nothing for Infiniti. Some claim that the IVIS code "is more complicated" than that of NATS. Bologna, but... again, Infiniti owners got stuck with the expensive fix. The ONLY insurance policy against this potential headache is to either pull the fuse or cut the brown wire while the engine is running!
If your ESCL fuse is pulled I would not give it a second thought. I pulled mine shortly after this issue started surfacing over a decade ago. The only detriment is that I can not roll the windows down with the fob anymore. I can deal with that... Oh, and a permanent B2109 code which doesn't trigger the MIL so who cares...
AFAIK, the older Ford PATS operates in the same way. The chip in the key has to match the code in the PCM or else the fuel pump relay and starter solenoid relay will not energize. When I lost my one ignition key (I still had my spare) I looked into disabling PATS several times so I could have more keys made. Over the years I never could get a clear answer on how to disable and wasn't about t spend ridiculous sums of money on a ≈30-year-old truck barely worth a grand. Now that the truck is and scheduled to retire to the junkyard it doesn't matter.
Last edited by ILM-NC G37S; Feb 23, 2026 at 10:12 AM.
Excellent response. I honestly had forgotten that we have the ability to roll the windows down with the key fob. I recall people talking about that feature here in the community years ago.
The ESCL was designed to add a additional layer of "security" by physically locking the steering column. The problem arose when certain batches of the modules had manufacturing defects/ issues whereas the plastic gears would get "gummed up" or jammed and not satisfy the "UNLOCKED" condition. When the ESCL fails, the car is bricked. Period. Internal to the ESCL are a series of microswitches that have to be "made" in a certain state before the car will even begin to read the IVIS code, unlock the column, and initiate the engine start protocol. There is no workaround short of replacing the ESCL which, as many have experienced, is costly and aggravating. Believe me, if there was a workaround it would have been discovered and exploited long ago.
This is another issue to where Nissan acknowledged the issue and "made it right" for most consumers while Infiniti totally ignored the issue and pretty much screwed the affected cars. There were various recalls/ NTB's issued (attached below) to replace the ESCL with the ESCM- a module that essentially did the electronic verification of the ESCL but did not physically lock the column. Infiniti on the other hand...crickets... Infiniti never addressed anything (unless you were under warranty). Their answer: replace the ESCL for ≈$750+/-.
To add insult to injury, the "emulator boxes" that one could get from Amazon and the like only work on Nissan. Nothing for Infiniti. Some claim that the IVIS code "is more complicated" than that of NATS. Bologna, but... again, Infiniti owners got stuck with the expensive fix. The ONLY insurance policy against this potential headache is to either pull the fuse or cut the brown wire while the engine is running!
If your ESCL fuse is pulled I would not give it a second thought. I pulled mine shortly after this issue started surfacing over a decade ago. The only detriment is that I can not roll the windows down with the fob anymore. I can deal with that... Oh, and a permanent B2109 code which doesn't trigger the MIL so who cares...
AFAIK, the older Ford PATS operates in the same way. The chip in the key has to match the code in the PCM or else the fuel pump relay and starter solenoid relay will not energize. When I lost my one ignition key (I still had my spare) I looked into disabling PATS several times so I could have more keys made. Over the years I never could get a clear answer on how to disable and wasn't about t spend ridiculous sums of money on a ≈30-year-old truck barely worth a grand. Now that the truck is and scheduled to retire to the junkyard it doesn't matter.
I have a question? So what if there isn't a an ECSL or ECSB module in the car? I dont see it anywhere. Sometime last month my son's 2012 g37 sedan got broken into and now it wont start. we have tried the ipdm, and event tried to reprogram a new bcm and key fobs. Cant complete the procedure because the ignition will not turn off. When you press the push to start button it jumps from lock straight to on. The cooling fan automatically comes on, can press the button again and it goes off but dash and power pop right back on. The only way to turn off ignition is to remove the negative terminal. Sorry for the long post but in need some legit help.
Nissan did away with the ESCL at some point in production 2012. If your sons car does not physically have the module attached to the steering column and there is no fuse in the IPDM/er then his car was lucky. The absence of said module in this instance is not the issue.
Sorry to hear the car was vandalised. What exactly was damaged/ touched/ etc.?
Typically the yellow key icon indicates that there is a issue with the iKey system. Could be a bad antenna, wrong/ incorrect fob codes, bad fob slot, or BCM issues. You say you tried to "reprogram a 'new' BCM and key fobs," how? Qualified locksmith? Are you sure the 'new' BCM is good? These are prone to water damage which can cause some of these erratic start button issues. Additionally, did you check all of the fuses/ relays in the driver-side footwell? Specifically the ACC relay?
If I were to guess, the chavs likely tried to reprogram a new fob with intent on nicking the car entirely. Obviously something went awry and that attempt failed. However, without knowing exactly what they did to the car it will be hard to pinpont. But, if the car did not have the ESCL prior then that is not the issue.
As a side note, being the fans come on immediately when the key is turned on indicates the car (specifically the BCM and IPDM/er) are in a "fail safe" condition. This typically means there is a CAN error between the two modules. You say the key goes from LOCK -> ON (skipping ACC)- with key ON does the car actually power up and are you able to pull codes?
Last edited by ILM-NC G37S; Mar 21, 2026 at 09:59 AM.
Thanks for the reply, They didnt break anything inside the car, jus went through glove box and console papers everywhere. I have the Autel scan tool borrowed it from my dad with every car software. It was a used BCM and IPDM from junkyard. Yes goes exactly as you stated however it powers up headlights stay on as well with the switch off and i can pull codes there is a U1000 in the bcm and a another U1xxx i dont remember in the ECM. I was unaware of the relays on the driverside kickpanel, i will check those and get back with you on an update. I have been in the FSMs the past day, so i figured id reach out for a lil bit of help. Sorry for the run-on sentences. Just a little flustered.
No need to apologize, your frustration is palpable and understandable given the circumstances. Just take deep breaths, breaks as needed, and work through the problem as best you can.
So it is just a "coincidence" that these problems started the day the car got ransacked? Still does not rule out the possibility the cretins tried to nick the car. I am not a fan of coincidences, regardless.
Not familiar with the Autel unit but are you able to pull any codes? Did you check ALL of the fuses? Including the ones on the battery positive (+) terminal?
Be sure to check all of the wiring- BCM, ECU, OBD, etc. Look for any evidence of water intrusion or physical damage. The U1000 and U1xxx CAN codes are the source of your problem. Once the network goes down nothing will work correctly. Again, this points to a likely wiring/ water leak issue, IMO.
No need to apologize, your frustration is palpable and understandable given the circumstances. Just take deep breaths, breaks as needed, and work through the problem as best you can.
So it is just a "coincidence" that these problems started the day the car got ransacked? Still does not rule out the possibility the cretins tried to nick the car. I am not a fan of coincidences, regardless.
Not familiar with the Autel unit but are you able to pull any codes? Did you check ALL of the fuses? Including the ones on the battery positive (+) terminal?
Be sure to check all of the wiring- BCM, ECU, OBD, etc. Look for any evidence of water intrusion or physical damage. The U1000 and U1xxx CAN codes are the source of your problem. Once the network goes down nothing will work correctly. Again, this points to a likely wiring/ water leak issue, IMO.
Update somewhat at least: I have checked all the fuses even the ones on the battery. Thats a new terminal assembly by the way. That was one of the first things that I changed. i have yet to check the relays behind the fuse box on the drivers side kick panel, but i did notice while i was down there that the drivers side carpet is wet. I will do some more digging around when i get off work tomorrow.
So when i pulled the fuse box from the driverside kick panel to check relays and this is what i found. I fixed all the broken wires (soldered and used shrink tubing) plugged everything back in, now the ignition will turn on and off it still jumps straight to on but at least it can turn off now and no colling fans running. The daylight ran out on me tho. Ill try and program the key fob and see if im good.
Crikey... Who threw a spanner in those works? Safe to say water ingress, while important to address, couldn't have done that to the wiring.
What in hell precipitated that harness getting trashed?
I am happy for you in that you're taking the time to repair it properly and are making some level of progress. So far so good... I guess?
Yeah they def had a plan to come back and steal the car. That was nasty when i saw it. looks like they were just pulled real hard. Maybe to stop the factory alarm? Im making great progress. most of the major issues are taken care of. Will put scanner on tomorrow and cross my fingers.
and scheduled to retire to the junkyard it doesn't matter.
