Any idea what page of the fsm/which one indicates the cooling fan control module wire harness and connector numbering/orientation.

I'm looking through the power, ground circuit one and the most it goes up to that I can see is up to the cooling fan relay. Doesn't show the connectors for the module

 

Caught me before I called it a night...

My copy (2013 Coupe) shows the FCM connector as #E37:



Hope this helps.

 

Thanks.

I checked power, ground and for shorts. Everything checks out fine.

I'm starting to get stumped.

The relay also tests fine.

Is there a way to confirm the car is indeed in 'fail safe' mode?

I have no stored codes in the ECM, bcm or ipdm.

It's strange.

 

What was the voltage at pin 2 (PWM signal)?

If time permits I'll give the FSM a look-see tomorrow. You can try the new FCM but, to me, it is starting to sound like there is a fault with either the IPDM/er or the ECU.

Quite honestly, at this point in time, the fans being on constantly does not really hurt anything. In other words, it is not a "critical" issue.

 

Took a few minutes during my morning constitutional and looked at the FSM. From what I gather I believe there is a issue, somewhere, with the ECU or related sensors. If I were to guess I would say the IPDM/er is fine. It passes the self-test (as evidenced by the change in fan speed (50% / 100% duty cycles). Further, the PWM relay is good as evidenced by the fans coming on at all and the FCM also checks out good as the fans changed speed during IPDM/er self-test. Therefore, logically, the issue is "upstream" of the IPDM/er.

EC p.93 shows I/O of the various components the cooling fan system:

Something, in that myriad of items, is the likely culprit.

With the battery disconnected, I would disconnect the ECU and make sure all of the terminals and pins are clean with no signs of corrosion. I know you said there was no evidence of cabin water leaks but that doesn't mean there was not a issue with the previous owner. Grasping at straws- perhaps, but I am willing to bet the issue is something minor/ trivial.

What scan tool are you using? Is it capable of pulling Nissan/ manufacturer-specific codes or just generic OBD? This might be why you are not pulling any codes... again, another straw, but...

 

Thanks for the reply!

I've ordered a new fan control module as it was cheap enough to rule out for sure.

I want to do the ipdm self test again and check the fan speed again. I have a feeling I was incorrect on the speeds the first time, and that the speed was constant but I will again have a look when I do the self test again this evening after work.

Will post back after I replace the fcm.

 

Well,

Just wanted to report back and say that the new fcm didnt make any difference.

The only thing with the new one is that the fans get to full speed pretty much immediately. With the 'old' fcm, the fans take about 10 seconds to get to full speed. Not sure why.

I guess ill be doing some more diag for this weird issue.

Also,

I redid the ipdm self test.

Fan speed, as soon as ignition is on, goes to full speed. Fan stays at full speed for the duration of the test. Even when it gets to the fan test, fan speed stays constant.

Any other ideas?

Edit: I'll try and pull the connectors off the ECM and check out the bcm this weekend.

My scan tool is a launch crp919x. Not sure if it can specially pull nissan codes, but it made me download nissan specific software to scan the vehicle.

Ill try doing a full system check again and see if anything comes up

 

If the IPDM/er self test fails any individual test item then likely the IPDM/er itself is the issue. Per the FSM the module can only replaced. Repair is not possible.

The "fail safe" for the IPDM/er is the same for the ECU when cooling fan control is affected. In this case, one is not communicating with the other hence why fans run at 100% duty.

I would see if you can source a junkyard donor module, plug it in, and see if the issue resolves. No programming is required for the IPDM/er.

 

Thanks. Does the vehicle have to be the exact model, a 2010x sedan. Or will any other g of similar years do?

Also, how do you know if the test 'fails' something. I just followed the guide of pressing the door switch 10 times with the power button on/off and the test starts and continues to repeat itself until I shut power down.

Thanks

 

The IPDM/er is the easiest to swap out as no programming is required. Plug-and-play whereas the ECU will require some programming. If the issue persists with the replacement IPDM/er then the issue points to the ECU, wiring, or CANBUS.


AFAIK the IPDM/er is interchangeable but try to stay as close to your car/ year as possible.

 

Thanks. Ill have a closer look at the bcm and ECM connectors this weekend.

No similar year cars in my area, but I'll keep an eye out for an ipdm.

It's not my daily so I'm not overly concerned but REALLY curious to find the solution lol

 

Another small interesting note:

Drove the car for about an hour today. When I got out at a stop and had it idling, fans went to what seems half or slow speed and stayed there.

When I started it up again, fans were back at high.

Really weird

 

Starting to sound more like you have a intermittent / wiring issue. This is the second time in recent weeks that this fan behaviour presented, yes?

Still odd all the same.

 

That's correct yes. It's happened a few times before where I'll get out of the car after running it for a while, and the fans are slower in speed rather than stuck on high.

Im going to take some time out and check all my connections and try to do a good continuity test on the harness for the ipdm to fan module.

 

I am dealing with the literal exact same issue bro brothaaa did you ever figure it out please tell me me you did lol it is driving me nutsssss I’ve done every test and replaced things and nothing