Hey all, wondering if folks have had a similar experience / thoughts on how to diagnose or fix this super weird behavior after replacing some LED front turn signal bulbs.

Brief history:

• Had VLED "triton" switchback bulbs installed about 5 years ago; those failed after about 3 years
• Replaced the "triton" bulbs with regular LED switchback bulbs (7443-70-hv-WA-5.5K) about 2 years ago (shoutout RMB5190)
  • Becuase these bulbs didn't have an integrated resistor, had to splice these load resistors into the turn signal wires: VLR_6_DUO_WP_2
  • Driver side turn signal bulb stopped working a few months ago, but otherwise this set worked fine for 2.5 years (no hyperblinking or any weird behavior)

Current issue:

• This weekend, I replaced both front bulbs with the same ones from VLED (exact same SKU as above)
• I didn't touch the load resistors
• Now, the turn signal bulbs act as follows:
  • With Harzard button on, no other lights on: turn signals blink amber-off-amber (as designed)
  • With parking lights or headlights (low beams) on and turn signal lever in off/middle positon: turn signals turn on as solid amber (should be solid white)
  • With headlights off and with turn signal lever down (left signal) or up (right signal): hyperflash and both front turn signals blink amber-off-amber
  • With headlights on and with turn signal lever down (left signal): no hyperflash, turn signal blinks
  • With headlights on and with turn signal lever up (right signal): hyperflash, turn signal does not blink

So basically, the white part of the LEDs don't ever illuminate, and my turn signals are seriously messed up and non-functional (and unsafe, not willing to drive it until I figure this out).

Gratful for any tips on what might be the root cause of this. Perplexed that all that was done was swapping out the bulbs (same LEDs even), and now the entire BCM/turn signal circuit is all weird. Was able to test out all of the fuses (under the dash and under the hood near the battery) and everything checked out Ok.

I'm about to just remove the load resistors from the circuit and revert back to OEM bulbs and get rid of this whole nightmare. But bummed I spent all of this time, effort, and $$$ to just go back to stock. Maybe that's the lesson learned here tho... ​​​​​​​

 

Fun update: when locking/unlocking my car, the full rear brakes lights flash (not just to rear turn signals). As does the license plate light...

WTF did I do to my car lol

Will continue to report out, in case this wild **** happens to someone else.

If I find out I somehow fried the BCM with some load resistors

 

VLED's caused issues for me as well. In my case I had the full interior package, trunk, license plate bulbs, and reverse lights. No switchbacks though.

My key fob would work maybe 30% of the time, same goes for the exterior door handle buttons. I went back to the stock bulbs and boom problem solved.

Ended up with full Diode Dynamics package as replacement bulbs and had no interference issues with them at all.
The DD bulbs would however stay slightly illuminated when the car was on and they should've been completely off. It was soo dim though that the output didn't really bother me too much.

 

I had an issue with interior LED's. I had the Precision LED kit installed. If I unlocked the car which would make the interior lights turn on (normal) I would not be able to open my trunk as the LED's would interfere with it. I ended up changing all the interior LED's back to the factory bulbs and had zero issues. Interior LED's on the G will interfere with the key fob. I think the Diode Dynamics was the only one that did not cause any issues. I run full LED's on my exterior lighting, but inside is 100% stock. Even on my new 2020 Q50S, the interior lights are the same ones in the G, minus the front dome lights which are LED from the factory.

 

Thanks for sharing.

In my case, things were behaving just fine, then when I replaced the VLED turn signal bulbs like-for-like, suddently my turn signal, brake light, licese plate light...even a small yellow light in the center console (air circulation button)...start acting wildly

Pretty sure this comes down to knocking something loose around the load resistors that were spliced into the turn signal circuits. Only thing I can think of. Would be shocked if this would somehow "fry" the BCM or otherwise damage it to malfunction like this. But we shall see...

 

Hopefully it is an easy fix. These cars unfortunately are a little finicky and some aftermarket parts just don't play nice. I know the original LED dome and map lights my G came with, the bulb had a slightly bigger connector on it, so it widened the connectors in the housings (copper wedge connectors). So when I tried the OEM bulbs in them the interior lights worked like half the time. I had to have the copper wedge connectors tightened which fixed the issue. Sorry if this is slightly different, but a loose connection can cause very weird issues!

I remember seeing a video way back, some person with an M56, they replaced the freaking light underneath the steering column that some Infiniti's get with an aftermarket LED bulb. Not sure how, but he needed the entire chassis harness replaced and I think BCM..... at least it was under warranty.

Here is the video:

 

Well that video kinda scared the sht outta me…$5k for replacing the BCM and wiring harness, all for some LED bulbs and load resistors that tons of folks seem to install with no issue!?!

UPDATE: removed the load resistors from each side, and installed the OEM 7443 bulbs. This restored the entire turn signal circuit back to normal behavior (sigh of relief), BUT for some reason the front driver signal was hyper flashing (that is, with the OEM incandescent bulb). So do giggles, I reconnected the load resistor on just the driver signal, and the hyper flash stopped, but the bulb never illuminates. Weird.

So everything is functional again, except the front turn signal. Which I’m guessing doesn’t work because there’s a 6 ohm resistor tapped into the turn signal wire. But without the load resistor connected, the bulb hyperflashes…

So pretty relieved to almost get my turn signal circuit back to normal. And pretty sure the BCM is fine. But not quite sure what else I can do here. Thinking I need to take a closer look at the T-tap (used to splice in the resistor) for the front driver side. But the T-tap on the passenger side is still there, and works fine

ARGH

 

Sorry about that, I was pretty scared when my interior bulbs won't working but it was a loose connection. I thought I fried something.

That is some good news, hopefully it will be 100% working soon for you!

 

Ok so I got around to installing some single filament “9440NA” bulbs, and all is back to normal. No more LEDs for me, not messing with that BCM circuit any more

And I like how the single filament bulbs look…off when the headlights are on, and flash only when the turn signal indicator is on. A reasonable compromise for me

 

That is great news! Glad it was a relatively easy fix!

 

I did that switch to the 7440NA a few years ago. I agree I think it looks more modern without the amber light on.

 

So, it is basically a "city light delete?"

 

Yep, signal functions as normal. Light is off unless your signal is on.

 

They make "no canbus error" led bulbs nowadays.
sometimes referred to simplyas "error free"

 

Thanks for the heads up, BUT after the heartache and $$$ burned pursuing the LED route, I will conclusively stick with incandescent bulbs in that BCM circuit. Respectfully.

I’ll still keep some LEDs tho, namely the rear license plate and reverse bulbs.