Crikey those are some screwball contraptions. No wonder they fail left and right....

Can you determine which switches get closed when the locking pin is fully retraced vs. fully extended?

The red should flash 1x every 1.5 seconds when the car is OFF. This is normal. If it stays solid, then likely IVIS has kicked in and the car will have to go to the dealer (or qualified locksmith) to get the iKeys re-synced.

Wish I had some good news but I just don't understand what is holding the chain up.

 

It's all good and I really appreciate your help! I'm stuck. I will need to start paying for another used unit. I got the '09 for free! SW3 is the only one I can see for sure. 1 and 2 are close by. See pic 3, of the '10 retracted original unit. You can see the little gray condom (by the 1) on the switch behind the white plastic. If you think you can figure it our by looking at the circuit board, I'll remove it.

 

It would be impossible for me to figure out. At this point I am out of ideas. It should never be this complicated. FWIW, I am sorry that I couldn't be more help.

Please keep us updated and lots of luck to you!

 

Spent an hour at LKQ on another car. Had to remove the column and easy outs wouldn't work...

Had to drill the heads off...

Used a drill bit to back out the threads...

Installed it, STARTED THA BITCH, and pulled that fuse!! $3 entry fee. As you can see it was not the plastic covered unit like mine. Three others in the yard were missing. It's a thing.

 

Good news indeed. Glad you're up and running.

And you verified it starts with the fuse pulled?

Just secure/ tuck the module up under the column AND FORGET ABOUT IT!

Yes, sadly, it is a thing. Which is why ANYONE who has these cars- needs to check and pull that damn fuse while they still can!

Thanks for the update.

 

Oh yeah, it starts! Thanks again for all your help! BTW I got a pig tail from the donor car to test.

 

@m3clubracer May I ask a favor?

When time permits, can you try rolling down your windows using the fob?

I am chasing a "hunch" and as I know you recently pulled the ESCL fuse, this will help me focus my hypothesis.

With thanks!

 

@ILM-NC G37S Sure! They went down. Hope that helps.

 

Thank you. It does, but also rules out my suspicion. Ah well, back to troubleshooting.

Thanks again!

 

I have stated having a 1-2 second delay after pushing the start button. The dash will not immediately come on and the car goes from ACC to ON more slowly. I wonder if the ESL or fuse removal is to blame.

 

The delay is considered normal. The delay is the amount of time that it takes for the BCM to recognize the key fob, verify the IVIS ID, and signal the IPDM to start the car. There is a whole sequence/ "chain of events" that gets followed before the car starts. Pulling the fuse, technically, doesn't disrupt (break) this chain.

Where do you keep the fob? The closer it is to the center console, the "quicker" the system reacts. May seem like "mind over matter," but my car seems to react quicker when the fob is in the cup holder as opposed to being around my neck. I've also found that the "response" starts to lag just before the fob battery kicks the bucket.

Either way, I think you're fine.

 

I have always had by keys in the right pocket and no where else for 7 years and only now it has a lag.

 

So I've noticed a said "lag" and I started to noticed it after I installed a NATS deleted ecm. Every once in a while I have to wait a good 5 secs for the BCM to make up it's mind.

 

I still say the delay is the process by which the entire IMMU Chain gets verified. Five (5) seconds seems abnormal, but you know your car...

 

It's weird. It only does it sometimes. I carpool and I don't drive it every day or a week at a time. It was such a long lag that I would hit the button 1-2 more times to get it to start it was so delayed. Yeah, I know it's fine, but just wanted to post and see if anyone else was seeing this and to document it may be a consequence of the fuse removal. I'll get a video or two.