Hello everyone,

I have some questions about the G37 Sedan. I'm currently trying contemplating three cars. A C6 corvette, G37 supercharged or a Q50 3.0T. Here are my questions:

1. I would like to do a supercharged setup if I get the G37 @13lbs with a built trans from IPT or level 10. This comes with a higher stall converter.

2. What I've noticed is that many people don't have built transmissions or gears as much. Even with FI builds.Why is that?

3. If I did have a higher stall converter or gears would that help in the 1/4 mile?

4. What times can I expect if I go with a higher stall and 3.69 gears in the quarter mile with a supercharged G37? I am thinking high 10s or low 11s.

 

1. the built ATs have been questionable. With a SC setup vs a turbo peak torque will most likely be a little lower helping the trans survive. Stock AT with a ATF cooler is good for 400wtq. beyond that do a VR30 trans swap will hold as much of not more then a build trans. Can do a FI flexplate, upgrade VB and upgrade TC on the VR30 trans with a ATF cooler and 550wtq should be perfectly fine. 490wtq at 7500rpm is 700whp.

2. Built trans are expensive and questionable in reliability, the diffs seems to hold up fairly well. Especially if awd to distribute load on launch.

3. Final drive gear change is very situational and dependent on overall setup. Yes a high stall TC can easily drop a good 4/10ths in the 1/4th.

4. These cars especially RWD are hard to get off the line. RWD with proper suspension and tire can hookup pretty good but AWD would be much easier to get off the line if you don’t want to invest in a strip setup. What time you run is very dependent on overall setup and what power you end up making. With a high stall TC and 13psi SC setup low 11s shouldn’t be out of the question. But again so many variables to consider.

 

Thank you for your input. This transmission issue reminds me of the GM 4l60e vs the 4l80e. A built 4l60e isn't as strong as the 4l80e stock. That's good to know a stock VR trans is more robust. Good to know thar gears and the TC can help. It's also good to know that setup can run low 11s in a Sedan.

 

Seems like a goal needs to be established before anything else...

A corvette will be the easiest and fastest way to get to 10-11s due to the massive market and many used parts available, it's also the lightest. Overall a great vehicle once you get over the "owning a chevy" thing.

A 3.0 Q50 will be the most expensive and least reliable of all, the record is 9.9 with a ton of stuff.

An SC G37 will have you closer to that number but it will require a VR trans or built trans with no guarantees. A higher stall will help tremendously off the line however too high of a stall will have your TC engaging/disengaging prematurely being that in cruise/hwy these cars like to stay between 1800-2500 rpm which will have that TC engaging on and off.


A goal with a set budget over time will be your friend. The corvette will trump all faster and maybe cheaper as well.
You're comparing a light American muscle car with two Japanese luxury sedans. V8 6.0 vs V6 3.7/3.0. Right off the line this torque comes in extremely handy for getting the best 60ft possible. To beat it, it'd require an AWD platform from both the G and Q from the start.

Good luck

 

If you can get past the chintzy interior, they're great cars, and the aftermarket is vast. Sometimes I wish I picked up a C4 when they were at the bottom of the market. Not having room for one helps, too.

 

C4 were named after explosives, youre not missing out

C5+ is what you want.

 

You can get an AWD Q50 premiums or luxe with under 50k miles for around $20k. for about $3k easily push 460whp/500ft lbs. running 11.4s-11.7s for another $3.5k push 500whp/540ft lbs and run 11.1-11.4s all day on a street tire. Not too much more needed for 10.9s.

 

For about a couple of months before the turbines crap out, then some PURE turbos at $3.5k + E60 gas and other mods will possibly run you another $1k+

So an average of about $30k for a low 11 maybe high 10s.

This will yield better in a G due to the cost savings of the car + pricing of used parts.

Only the C5 corvette would be able to compete in this. They can be had between $12-15K, $15k worth of upgrades will get you in the 9s for sure.

 

That is a gross overstatement, the percentage of owners whos turbos fail is small, much higher then should be acceptable by Nissan/Infiniti but still a small overall percentage of owners and performance mods does not appear to have any real effect on increasing the likelihood of this happening.

The $3.5k to push 500whp/540ft lbs was for LPFP, HPFP, Injectors, and Flex fuel to run Full E85 so that is already included. If you do get pure stage 2 turbos you can easily push 600whp+, Think the record on pures is about 675whp IIRC and running very low 10s with the right setup that could even break into the 9s. The stock trans starts getting questionable but the pure stage 2 turbos don't increase torque a ton it shifts the powerband norths and holds onto the torque much longer for reference the 675whp made 550wtq, People have made 550wtq on stock turbos but only made about 520whp. So that $30k price you mention (assuming all DIY install) is for low 10s.
For reference I have over 2k+ posts on infinitiq50.orq and had a full extensive 2017 premium Q50 build myself.

As far as C5 goes. OP is comparing a C6 G37 and Q50. So he probably has some standard of not wanting some beat out 20+ year old car. For a dedicated track car sure C5 is a competitive option. Would be odd for OP to cross shop those 3 options for a dedicated track car though.
but then again If the goal was to run 10s as cheap as possible then a K series with an ebay turbo will get you there for dirt cheap, or find the cheapest LS possible and spray and pray.

 

For what the OP wants upgraded turbos will be the way to go, that 500whp is made really early and without the proper heat control you'll really be pushing it. No sense in dropping 5psi+ boost in the best part of the RPM for these cars.
As for an AWD Q50 there will be limitations to certain DIYs even for veterans. Turbos is not something many folks are willing to do themselves.

On the latter, A SC G37 is a lot easier to take apart with them averaging 550whp tuned, with the proper setup, maybe upgraded wheel, e85 and some decent exhaust components these can hang in the 650whp's for a lot less money depending on what year the OP chooses. I estimate about $25k for a build as long as the car can be found under $10k. So for $30k I have no doubt it will be the best contender between both. The Q will stay as the most comfortable one and the G will be an in between.

Now if the OP ever wants to do this in form of investment, there will be a higher return from the Q50.


OP, care to share any additional info?

 

OPs only real “requirement” was running low 11s or high 10s in one of those 3 platforms.

“$3k easily push 460whp/500ft lbs. running 11.4s-11.7s for another $3.5k push 500whp/540ft lbs and run 11.1-11.4s all day on a street tire.”

that $3k includes a HX. You won’t heat soak after just 1 pull. And you can always add a WMI setup for easily under $500. My setup could do 10 back to back 40-90 pulls in under 30second intervals with zero heat soak. 3 consecutive 60-130s didn’t phase it either.

all those above are easy DIY. Turbos are challenging as you need to drop the engine so add at least $1500 for install of those, but those aren’t needed unless you are hunting mid to low 10s.

but stock turbos can still run very low 11s, IIRC one individual has run 10.9s on stock turbo.

that $10k G is going to have well over 100k+ miles in which case a Q of the same condition/mileage isn’t much more expensive. Got to compare equivalent cars. IE condition, mileage, etc…

OP stated automatic - auto G37s aren’t holding 550whp for long without upgrading flexplate and a built trans or VR30 trans swap, which adds to the cost/complexity.’ And even then low 11s isn’t a stretch but will be tough. Much easier and cheaper to make a Q50 go low 11s then a G. The G will have the edge on the back half / hwy pulls. But 60ft / 1/8 mile the Q getting too far ahead for the G to catch in the 1/4th. Highly dependent on a million variables and specific setups obviously. But if goal is specifically low 11s in the 1/4 mile between those 3 vehicles, the Q is much easier and cheaper platform to reliably and consistently do it on.

This isn’t me hating on the G or a SC G, i had a full build Q50 and switched to a G for the soul reason/purpose of topgunz SC kit. But I’m aware of the challenges and expectations first hand of both platforms/setups. The G is a better roller/hwy puller. and revving out to almost 8k and being rewarded for it is magical. The Q is better on the strip especially at the price and ease of doing so.

 

I thought about about C5 as well. Not sure if it was the right choice because of the age.

 

1. I had saw in soho motorsports website that they had a package for the Q50/Q60 that I liked. They had a heat exchanger, exhaust, tune and drop in filters I believe. Here's the video
2. For the G37 I did want the air to air supercharger kit from Soho with exhaust, 3.69 gears, and and a stall converter and a trans that can take that type of power. I don't have e85 where I live. I would have to go to Orlando, FL which is 250 miles to get that. Here's another build that I liked that was on the G37. The second link will be on a 370z but turbo. I like the supporting mods list and I would only change it to a supercharger on pump gas. G37 link:
370z link:
3. If I got a C6 then I would just do a 224/228 cam with an A&A supercharger kit along with exhaust and tune.

4. For the price it seems like the Q50 and the C6 will cost about the same overall to buy the vehicle and mod it. This is why sometimes I lean to the Q50 more since it's a newer car. I cant deny that t I've always wanted a corvette and after that an G37/370z. The G I had calculated it to be about the 25k you mentioned.

 

How much do you think a C6 that isn’t clapped out costs, and then costs to make it run 10s? No NA, non FI, non nos, no heads/cams is running 10s on an ls2/3 unless maybe serious weight reduction. And to hookup the power to run a 10s needs some suspension work for weight transfer and a serious tire. Good luck on the street. Definitely a great platform if setup right though.

go look at dragy leaderboards, or join the FB groups.
so many Qs running 11.0-11.3s on stock turbos with just FBO, fueling mods for E85 and racebox tunes, a few have broken 10.9s on stock turbos.

compare same condition/mileage C6 to a Q. Q is cheaper.
compare price of mods for C6 to run 11.0s vs Q, Q is cheaper.
CAI or tubes and drop ins, downpipes, Y-pipe, Heat exchanger. Ranges $1500-2500, then add a tune. Gets you sohos dyno you posted for mid 11s.

LPFP, HPFP, Injectors, flex fuel is optional but recommended, for about $3,500. Can now run E85 and gets you 11.0s. Assuming AWD, RWD needs some work to hookup.


Are you building a dedicated drag car? Or what is your goal/purposes specifically?

 

Throwing a wildcard into the mix. If you are just looking to go fast, and go fast now, a gen 2 Coyote would just need boost and a tire. Coyote is good for 800-900whp, 6r80 for 800wtq (build nothing). Pump gas with 9-10 PSI will net you 650+whp and be a low 11 - mid 10 second car pending driver mod. If E85 is available, it's a matter of pulleying down and you're at 800+whp.

Mustang: 25-27k w/ 80k or fewer miles
Centri blower: 5-6k
Tune: 1k
Rim and tire set-up: $1500

Total: 32,500 - 35,000