Good afternoon everyone. Had an oil change about a month ago and the dealership suggested that I need to change my brake fluid ($149), Auto transmission fluid ($220), and brake pads ASAP. My car is a 2013 G37 Journey 7 Speed auto and has 49,800 miles. The dealership noted that I go back ASAP or at about 50k miles to perform these maintenance. The prices seem fair, but is it really needed at only 50k miles? I just had my power steering fluid changed and I read on another forum that the maintenance my dealership suggested should only be performed on higher mileage cars. My dealership did a thorough inspection on my car also every oil change.

Also how bad is spirited driving on my car? I admit that I enjoy driving my car pretty hard and last night I took it up multiple times at red line and full throttle runs. On DS mode my car keeps the revs pretty high and come to think of it, will it do any damage or shorten the transmission and engine life. I drive this way because I did ride a CBR 600 F4i. I got rid of the bike for personal reasons but I did drive the bike hard. The F4i red lined at 14k RPM, and spent most of its life above 8k RPM where the power band is, but I know it was a track bike built to do that compared to a sporty sedan.

Thanks for your time in advanced! GG.

 

I think the general consensus is to change your brake fluid every 2 years.

The pads have wear indicators, are they squealing?

 

Mine is an 07, original owner and has been driven hard for all of its 10 years 115k miles. Regular oil changes, trans fluid, etc. Only 2 notable issues ever and they were acc belt snapping at 40k and AC compressor going out at 75k. Aside from that it's been the most reliable car out of anything my family has. So no, I wouldn't worry about driving it hard. Just be ready to burn through tires and maybe brake pads.

 

I drive the living **** out of my car every day. Do I feel guilty? Sort of...in a "I don't deserve this car kinda way." I have changed all fluids but power steering. Full 3x flush on transmission. Brake fluid. Coolant. Oil obviously. Just replaced the rear differential bushings and at the same time upgraded to a finned diff cover (why not while it's ripped out). I get my car aligned. 93 octane only. New brake pads and slotted DBA rotors so no more brake pads deposits or judder. I drive the **** out of it but I also maintain it accordingly. Drive it hard? Maintain it hard. I don't see the complication so far between my driving habits and maintenance schedule. 71k miles on the clock. Owned since 32k miles.

 

Your chassis and drive train are all based on the 370z platform, these cars are engineered to be driven hard.

I would check w/ the dealer and see what the ATF service entails, it seems to differ quite a bit from dealer to dealer. Some just do a simple 1x drain & fill, some do a pressure flush, and others do the 3x drain & fill. I would only go w/ the 3x drain & fill at your mileage, avoid the pressure flush as this can dislodge debris/residue that can do harm. Also ask if they can drop the pan and clean that too if it's not a big upcharge.

 

Ryan said it best, If you're gonna play hard, make sure you take care of your toy with vigilance. Top notch fluids, Maintenance on time, etc...

This car will take beating and come back for more; one of the main reasons I bought it. The 2012+ are near bullet proof really and will take anything you throw at it short of gross negligence. Take care of her and she'll take care of you.

 

Hey guys. I heard my brake pads squicking months ago, but I thought it was because of the cold weather. I have not heard any squeeks lately! It is good to know that this car can take a beating lol. I always maintain my car and let the dealership perform all the maintenance and inspection. I thought the reason why these maintenance intervals were recommended because I drive the car pretty hard lol. I honestly dont know how someone can drive this car easy unless going on a road trip on a long highway! I figured the VQ was made to be revved pretty high, kind of like those Civic SIs and their drivers run their car hard! All I wanted was a peace of mind. Thanks again for the replies!

 

On the topic of tranny and diff flushes: my mechanic (not dealership) is recommending that I dont do a trans/diff flush ( probably to avoid dislodging debris or causing any other issues). Im at 80k 5AT and i have no idea if the previous owner did anything. I'll prob take it to the dealership for this work, but would a drain and fill be recommended over a flush?

 

Absolutely recommend a drain and fill over a flush. Your mechanic most likely doesn't have the tools or software to perform a proper fluid change. They are reallyyyyyyy complicated on this car.

 

dont listen to them. i was hesitant too, as i could not get a concrete answer from anyone. but your tranny oil loses its "potency" like any other oil, and your tranny will burn out with time, unless you dont plan on keeping the car, i would strongly reccommend doing it. you will notice a difference in shifting too, even from a simple drain and fill.

 

Someone posted a DIY actually not too long ago. I imagine it isn't too bad but even as someone who has turned the wrench a few times, I'm not messing with this car's transmission myself. I was more than happy to fork over the cash for a drain & fill.

Get it flushed btw....sooner rather than later. You could give the VIN to the dealer so they could pull the service history.

 

If you already do your own basic service, transmission fluid changes aren't as complicated as people make them out to be. It's even easier with the 5AT since you have a dipstick, but the 7AT isn't much harder. No you don't need a Consult 3 to read transmission pan temperature, try a sticker thermometer on the outside of the pan (using an IR thermometer, when the pan read 104 the fluid measured 108, that's close enough), . Just read the service manual and if you have any questions ask before you start. If you're not dropping the pan it's a 1 hour job.

Anyone telling your that freshening up your fluid will cause you to throw chunks of crud and grenade your transmission is full of ****. The factory fill is synthetic and there's no way your transmission is full of sludge to dislodge. Magnetic particles are caught by the pan magnets and anything larger by the filter. What will kill your transmission is never changing the fluid.

 

Good post Victory, but a pressurized flush can cause some issues w/ debris and residue getting into the internals. I'm fairly certain you were referring to the factory Service manual method though, and for sure, that's much better than just running the fluid til the car's done

 

So the drain and fill method is what I am going to ask the dealer to perform and not the flush method. Thanks for the information guys. I been learning a lot and will do the recommended maintenance at 50k miles. I still am interested in hearing how hard you guys drive your cars and if it is still running good. The weather here in Central Cali is pretty good and I am thinking of going on a canyon run some time soon. Gonna drive very spirited haha.

 

A pressure flush isn't indicated on this car. Also, it's unlikely there's any significant crud in there. I think these stories come from the days of conventional transmission fluids and 30k mi changes that people skipped. Matic S isn't turning to sludge so quick