Mishimoto vs OEM tubes temperature test - MyG37



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Mishimoto vs OEM tubes temperature test

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Old 05-19-2017, 07:55 PM   #1
latino914
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Mishimoto vs OEM tubes temperature test

So I did this little experiment seeing the temperature difference with both tubes. This was just a simple test, did not factor in any other complicated variables. I installed one side with the mishimoto and left the other side oem. After driving 40 minutes I took temperatures of both tubes with an infared gun. The mishimoto silicone tube read 5-7 degrees lower than the oem. The results were already going to be obvious to some but I wanted to put it to the test and was curious. 136.6


Last edited by latino914; 05-19-2017 at 07:56 PM. Reason: More specific
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Old 05-19-2017, 08:08 PM   #2
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Awesome dude. Love the mishis when i had them. Good to see they helped.
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Old 05-19-2017, 08:27 PM   #3
main_shoby
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I am a bit skeptical here. what difference would the temperature of those tubes make?
the air passing through these tubes is passing at a fast velocity. It should not effect passing air's temperature a whole lot, right?
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Old 05-19-2017, 08:30 PM   #4
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I'm not sure this is proving anything, but then again... lower temps for a component of the air intake system seems more desirable than otherwise.

What if you shot the exact same spot on each side, but hit the MAF housings instead? Or the TB's?
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Old 05-19-2017, 09:13 PM   #5
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Don't forget that there's both conduction and radiation transferring thermal energy to air passing through the tube. Also, the greater the temperature difference, the faster heat transfer occurs. Any reduction in delta T is a good thing.
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Old 05-19-2017, 09:33 PM   #6
latino914
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Just so y'all know I did point the infared gun throughout the whole tube for both sides, top, middle and bottom. The mishimoto read lower in all areas than the oem.

And just for kicks I put out both tubes side by side in the sun for 30 min. Obviously black attracts sunlight more than red but it was quite a difference.
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Old 05-19-2017, 09:51 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by latino914 View Post
Just so y'all know I did point the infared gun throughout the whole tube for both sides, top, middle and bottom. The mishimoto read lower in all areas than the oem.

And just for kicks I put out both tubes side by side in the sun for 30 min. Obviously black attracts sunlight more than red but it was quite a difference.
Nice man. Don't let them discourage them lower intake temps are best
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Old 05-19-2017, 10:09 PM   #8
latino914
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Nice man. Don't let them discourage them lower intake temps are best
Lol right on. Also makes the engine bay look better.
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Old 05-19-2017, 10:15 PM   #9
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I actually did intake temp testing via the MAF sensor reading with the mishimoto tubes vs oem and they take wayyyy longer to heatsoak than OEM. With my OEM they gained about 15 degrees idling for 60 seconds once at operating temp and the mishimotos only gained about 6 degrees. The differences were even greater the longer I idled to an extent. They seemed to level off around 180 for both but again the mishimotos took forever to get there. For comparison, my r2c intakes heatsoaked quicker than OEM setup. I think post maf tubes with r2c drop ins is the best bang for the buck setup for our motors.
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Old 05-19-2017, 10:16 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4doorfury View Post
I actually did intake temp testing via the MAF sensor reading with the mishimoto tubes vs oem and they take wayyyy longer to heatsoak than OEM. With my OEM they gained about 15 degrees idling for 60 seconds once at operating temp and the mishimotos only gained about 6 degrees. The differences were even greater the longer I idled to an extent. They seemed to level off around 180 for both but again the mishimotos took forever to get there. For comparison, my r2c intakes heatsoaked quicker than OEM setup. I think post maf tubes with r2c drop ins is the best bang for the buck setup for our motors.
Great info! Im thinking of selling my takeda and doing mishis again
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Old 05-19-2017, 10:22 PM   #11
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Another thing to note...

2 different dynos but I used the local weather station so I could use the correct correction factors. Both dynojets.

Baseline stock
283.05 whp
234.47 wtq

Mishimoto tubes, r2c drop ins, y pipe to x pipe conversion with stock exhaust everywhere else
296.81whp
240.39 wtq

I took the airbox out when installing the filters and applied black foam tape around the bumper vent to seal it off from the engine area. The foam in used was thick and was a very tight fit unlike the OEM stuff. I know I had an exhaust mod (somewhat) in the above dyno comparison but take it for what you will.
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Old 05-19-2017, 10:37 PM   #12
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Quote:
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Great info! Im thinking of selling my takeda and doing mishis again
Wow. That's quite a decision.
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Old 05-20-2017, 08:37 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4doorfury View Post
I think post maf tubes with r2c drop ins is the best bang for the buck setup for our motors.
Agreed. The real benefit of going long tube, for me, was the sound. I can't feel any difference from post maf tubes and aFe drop ins.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 4doorfury View Post
Another thing to note...

2 different dynos but I used the local weather station so I could use the correct correction factors. Both dynojets.

Baseline stock
283.05 whp
234.47 wtq

Mishimoto tubes, r2c drop ins, y pipe to x pipe conversion with stock exhaust everywhere else
296.81whp
240.39 wtq
Pretty solid gains for the investment
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Old 05-20-2017, 11:05 PM   #14
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+1 for post MAF tubes!

I'm happy with my HPS silicone intake tubes and aFe dry panel filters. Thinking of trying r2c black hex drop ins next.
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Old 05-23-2017, 07:46 AM   #15
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I have Mishimoto tubes and K&N drop ins. performance debate aside...
This weekend I had a couple of pool sessions with my kids. I ended up with more water in my ears than in the pool. Anyway, both ears are a little stuffed and I don't get a lot of high end/treble noise. I can hear my engine so much better :P what a great sound these cars make. The driving experience hearing the engine noise alone is worth any mod that makes it louder!
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