Speaking of battery, my factory battery just died this week. I have a 2011 car.

 

Hi guys, I am new here but have a few questions,
I have been an Infiniti owner for going on five years,
I traded in my 03 I35 on a 09 G37X,
Not too long ago (May) I had to take the car to the dealer,
Being as the car is AWD I am new to the quirks ect.
Fortunately for me when I purchased the car in July of 2016 the dealer included an extended warranty
It was not long before I got hit with an an 11,000.00 charge for a replacement transmission, after putting less than 10,000 miles on the car. The warranty paid for itself 10 times over
Now it seems the transmission is acting funny again as when I have to brake quickly at highway speeds the trans seems to jump out of gear and race with a high RPM....
Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated

 

I replaced the replacement battery on my 2011, probably my fault. I wasn't used to having the start/stop button. I think a lot of cars will shut themselves off after a while, but I don't think ours are programmed that way.


As for the transmission, sounds like you are in sport mode. When you hit the brakes, it will kick down 3-4 gears. It might even do it when you are in 7th and hit the brakes hard. In regular auto, it doesn't do that.

I used to have a 330i that always started in 2nd gear unless you floored it. I wish this one was like that. What I don't like is the delay I get. I think once I clean the throttle bodies and get the new diff bushing, perhaps it will be mostly eliminated. It is more when you are in stop and go traffic and see an opening.

I am thinking of getting the Z1 subframe support brackets. With 171k on the car, I almost wonder if I should just get a replacement subframe. Z1 has them for $660. I was planning on just getting the Diff Bushings and go from there. I plan on upgrading the suspension when it gets enough miles on it. Probably to the tein and lower it by .5-.75.

 

When the car is in DS mode, it will downshift when you are hard on the brakes. The idea is basically that as you brake hard into a corner, the car will downshift so you are in the peak powerband when you exit the corner. This is only really important if you are racing or driving like a hooligan on back roads. If this is happening in D, not just in DS, it's because you have older transmission software. Later updates removed this feature in D, retaining it only in DS, for the exact reason you are posting: people who weren't used to this sort of transmission behavior thought something was wrong. If that is the case, go to the dealer, tell them what's going on, and ask them to update your transmission software.

 

Hmmm here is my list, and I'm not really happy with the reliability..
I'm not a racer, and never race the car on a track. It's my daily commute car and I would say only 10% of my driving is spiritual...

I bought it brand new and now it has 70K on it...

1. 20K slashing sound from heater core. fixed by a dealer
2. 50K rear diff leak. The rear diff replaced and it was paid by the powertrain warranty -- Lucky me!
3. 60K Starter died, left me stranded. $900 out of my pocket to the dealer's pocket
4. 65K had a lot of vibration when standing at a light, and knocking sound when driving on uneven pavement. front swaybar links repla ced (replaced myself)
5. 67K heating core makes a lot of ticking noise. Dealer quoted $400 for reverse flush. Will be Doing myself
6. Car rattles sometime during acceleration from stop, and seems like nobody knows why
https://www.myg37.com/forums/g37-cou...fter-stop.html
7. There is a knocking sound is coming from rear left axle... Not sure yet what is it...
8. For no reason car lost three times steering wheel position and was pulling left. Before that happened the dealer performed alignment. When I came back with crooked steering wheel they said that alignment was not done properly. And they redid it 3 times ...
9 Dealer found aftermarket clam on one of the cooling system hose, and coolant was leaking. I told them that you only worked on my car, nobody else.
After that I'm doing oil, fluid changes myself and all repairs myself when possible. Do not trust those guys anymore...

 

Brake pads need replacement at 49k miles. Two track events, though, in advanced group. Not unhappy.

 

Purchased my '09 G37xS in October '10 with 24k miles, today it has 173K miles and has been the best car i have ever owned!! have done fluid replacement every 50K miles, front/rear diff, transer case & transmission. The power steering rack is just starting to seep slightly & my mechanic is watching it for eventual repair. I've owned Acura, Audit & Lexus and nothing compares to the '09 G. If you can find one in the used market you should be happy for many years.

 

I'm less happy about my 2011. A/C isn't working right, the dash has cracked in two places, and the sunroof drains have plugged twice causing water to get into the passenger compartment. One window motor and the original battery were replaced under warranty.

I have other complaints but they are caused by unfortunate decisions by the V36 design team.

 

whatever year you buy, invest in an oil pressure gauge.

Keep your eye on it and have it warn you when it gets low.

 

tint your windows some (35%) and always always use a sunshade to prevent the interior cracking (i.e. the dash).

Leave a little crack open of the windows on hot days too. Can get 200 deg in there!

 

start a new thread. Check your grounds.

 

I have owned a 2010 G37 for about 2 years. I put on about 35,000 miles during that time. I'm currently at almost 106,000 and have had no real reliability issues. Just make sure to get all the regular maintenance done. I did do one sorta major upgrade which was a Grom Vline unit to improve the infotainment system. Also have an aftermarket exhaust .But other than pretty much all stock.

 

I have a 2010 G37xS Sedan. Bought with 55,000 miles, now at 104,000 miles

I have 3 doors with failing or completely failed door lock actuators. And it would be 4 if I didn't already have the front passenger fixed a few years ago. I really can't wrap my head around how this is possible... and dealers want $600/door to fix it.

To throw in some cosmetic issues, steering wheel trim looks disgusting with all the peeling. Leather on the driver door arm rest is cracking.

Car would be perfect if not for these issues.

 

Biggest issues I have had with the car from ownership in 2015 at 32k miles to present with 93k miles.

62k miles: rear differential bushing blew
80k miles: windshield washer pump died
90k miles: power steering pump died, leaking valve cover gaskets, clogged egr valve

Been great otherwise

2013 Sport mode btw which has the low flow sport pump for steering

 

Had to get the transfer case replaced after 50,000 km And then a new actuator and bank one of the Vvel system. The dealer told me nothing was wrong with it after the car was diagnosed with two different permanent error codes and would not fix it. I had to call infinity consumer affairs and launch a formal complaint then they had to do it. Complete worst buying experience ever. I was lied to blackmailed and patronized. After 15 years of being a Nissan owner I will never buy their product again.