Rochester

iTrader: (8)

Update 11-8-2018
Technical reason why it's important to re-adjust cruise switch after afp adjustment change on older pedal versions.
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Scheduled for installation at the end of this month (July 2015), I received a box of parts from Canada today. About the size of a shoebox.

[edit] Installed and reviewed on Comment #55.



One bag of small parts, and 3 larger pieces, each wrapped and secured in the box with packaging noodles.

This is the Clutch Pedal Assembly, from RJM Performance.

370Z & G37 AFP Clutch Pedal Assemblies - *RJM Performance.com



I was going to wait until after the install before starting a thread, but got to thinking someone might have some installation insights that go beyond the instructions. So... if you have something to discuss about the RJM Clutch Pedal, please go right ahead.

The plan is to install this myself. Or more accurately, assist a buddy who is coming to visit in two weeks. Matt is a mechanic, so really, I'll just be helping him... handing him tools, shining the light, fetching beers.

I've never read a single disparaging comment about this device, and I love having subtle mods that affect and improve on the driving experience, so I'm hoping for a big smile because of the clutch interface. I've had the jsolo return spring for three years now, and it's time to upgrade.

canucklehead

iTrader: (9)

sorry, no help from me - but sub'd for results. in particular, details on the ease of access and how much of a problem just getting access for the install is. as well - just to re-confirm that this is indeed the ticket to buttery smooth shifting and clutch feel/engagement.

this has been on my mind for a long time. i too have the Jsolo spring and have wondered about upgrading to the RJM. i fear the cramped install as i have recurring back issues, and at 6' 195lbs i'm not the compact size some installers are (although i know a lot of much bigger guys have done it OK).

Rochester

iTrader: (8)

Putting the jsolo return spring in was kind of a PITA three years ago. I'm 51 now, and not nearly as flexible as I was 20 years ago, so I feel your concerns.

Fortunately, Matt is a skinny punk, so I'm sure to be relying on him. Regardless, the plan is to remove the driver's seat for the install.

guy from norcal

iTrader: (2)

Very cool Rochester.

If i ever upgrade to a g37s 6mt. this will be my first mod.

TunerMax

In for results. Mmmm beer

Black Betty

iTrader: (60)

Remove the driver seat and lay flat on the floor pan your back to install it. It makes a world of difference versus trying to lay sideways at an angle with your back/side across the door threshold. You will be able to see better, get better lighting in the work area if you use a headlamp, and be able to easily use both your hands with full dexterity. You will have an easier time and spend less overall time on the install even with having to remove and replace the driver seat.

Rochester

iTrader: (8)

Headlamp, flat and perpendicular... roger that, BB.

Thanks.

pledes23

Sub' Looking forward to hearing how the installation goes.

Furlow

I just picked mine up from a shop that I had do the install. They charged me $150, but said it was "a bitch" to get done. They did not take the seat out, so I would echo what Black Betty said and do just that.

Rochester

iTrader: (8)

Wow. You're modding that 6MT pretty quick, Furlow.

I assume you're going to comment a few times here with your thoughts on the mod. Looking forward to it.

Furlow

Absolutely. I just left a comment in a different thread, but might as well here too. I literally fought back tears as I pushed the clutch in to start the car lol. It's that big of a difference in terms of pedal pressure. The engagement point is much lower, and so much more forgiving. It really grabs now. More connected to the engine, clutch, and the car overall. If I didn't know it was my car, I would have no idea I was driving my car - feels completely different.

I know it might sound like I'm overstating things, but I'm dead serious. I've only had it back for about an hour and I've already pulled over 3 times to adjust it, just to see what the difference is. And that's the craziest part - you can almost get it to feel like stock, and then adjust it so much that it feels like a damn race car clutch. And it's a simple **** so there are an infinite number of "settings" to choose from.

This is making me happier than my Swift/Koni combo, and that's saying a lot.

Rochester

iTrader: (8)

That's quite the emotional response. Tears, eh?

I suspect you're going to be adjusting it over the next few days (or this evening, LOL). Please come back and report on your impressions based on the adjustments made. I'm going to be doing that, too, but that's still a few weeks out, and I'm excited knowing what to expect.

This is pretty interesting. Thanks, Furlow.

Furlow

Well this is the first mod I've done before you lol, so I'm happy to help and return the favor.

More driving Impressions... I initially set it very tight to the floor. I was all juiced so the added pedal pressure was noticeable but not harsh. Then a couple hours later when I got off work, I wasn't expecting it and the pedal seemed very heavy. Commuter traffic and frequent shifts were getting annoying. So I pulled over, dialed it down a couple turns, and it was much more comfortable. Still the same grab and forgiveness, just less pedal pressure and higher engagement point.

I think if I get good enough I can probably adjust it at a stoplight. It's that easy.

JSolo

iTrader: (14)

^^You do realize you have to readjust the two switches after making any changes to the **** or the master pushrod? If you're not, then there's a chance the clutch may not be engaging completely. There must also be a small amount of play in the pedal/pushrod with the pedal unloaded. This ensures full clutch engagement. Read the instructions that came with, it explains how to adjust these switches.

For adjustment, I think it's best to make one change at a time, otherwise it's more difficult to how the change affects operation. I'd start with the initial grab point. The MC pushrod affects this most directly. After you get that dialed in, work with the **** adjuster. That too will affect the grab point (how high off the floor it starts to grab). The only adjustment that doesn't affect functions is the pedal angle (3 bolts that permit slight pedal rotation).

"Tight, dialed down" doesn't really describe what you did. Turning the **** clockwise (as viewed facing the ****) brings the pedal closer to stock performance (decreases friction zone window). Rotating it counterclockwise increases the friction zone resulting in less abrupt clutch function.

I've helped a few local guys with installation, $150 is a total steal. More fun to install in a 370z with an even tighter workspace.

tl;dr Improper adjustment of all related components will lead to premature clutch wear.

Furlow

The only thing I've touched is the red ****. I'm not sure what two "switches" you're referring to. I'll have to look closer. Thanks for the tip.