The final drive ratio in the 6MT is 3.692:1. Those are relatively short gears, much shorter than the 7AT (which is 3.357). The 6MT Vert is 3.916, configured even shorter than the Coupe and Sedan so that you can get relatively similar response from a car that is 400 pounds more heavy. (Oddly enough, the 6MT Vert doesn't come with VLSD. Never understood that decision.)

Anyway, shortly after the VQ37HR was available, people figured out the 4.083 gears from the Nissan Frontier truck are a direct replacement for the 370Z/G37. Specifically, it's PnP for the 6MT, but can be done with the 7AT with a little modification. Parts are about $800 give or take for the gear, pinion and related parts that are sold as a kit. And you're probably looking at a full day's labor cost, maybe more. All in all the mod should run under $1500, for an immediate boost in power delivery throughout every gear at every point on the tach.

The general consensus is the car remains completely driveable, just faster. No magic, no added HP, just math. The downside is a reduced highway mileage, probably 2-3 mpg. City driving mileage wouldn't change at all, because you'd be compensating by shifting sooner into higher gears more so than you do now. It's mostly highway mileage that suffers... I suspect it would be like driving your car at 65 mph the way it is now, but leaving it in 5th gear.

That's pretty much my brain dump on the mod. I'm no engineer, so this is just from on-again/off-again research over the last three years. But it's on my list for Spring 2016. Wait, there was a recent thread where this was the first and only mod someone did to their 6MT. I just found it a few days ago... here:

https://www.myg37.com/forums/engine-...installed.html

If you want to research it more, there's probably more info on the 370Z forums than on MyG37.

How's that, did that help? Someone feel free to correct me if I'm off-base somewhere.

 

I don't have gears on my G, but went from a 3.55 to 4.10 in my Mustang and it definitely affects gas mileage both in city driving and highway. I lost about 2 mpg with the gears, but it's worth it to get the blower in boost quicker. Also, how do you adjust the ECU so that the speedometer is correct in the G? Is that even necessary?

 

That's a pretty big jump in gear ratios, IMO. No wonder you were sensitive to the mileage change.

Ford offers 3 different rear-gear configurations on the 6MT Mustang GT. I recently drove the 2015 Mustang with the middle gears, but 5 years ago I drove two brand new GT's back to back; one with the tallest gears, and one with the shortest. I was genuinely interested in the car, and wanted to assess the difference in rear gears. The dealership had one of each available, and I whipped them up pretty good.

The short gears were dramatically better by way of perceived throttle response and power delivery. Maintaining speed in 6th on the highway was a little higher, but not so much as to matter unless you drive a lot of highway miles.

Overall, the car was crude and unappealing, with just horrible fitment and materials. Five years later, that hasn't changed; in fact, it's gotten worse. But my god... the power. You can't deny the power of Ford's 5.0 V8 in the Mustang.

 

Link to takeda cai for $350? Cheapest I see is $450

 

I went from a 3.27 to a 4.10 with the AOD in my '93 Mustang notchback. Best bang for yer buck you get at the price of parts and labor. Which brings up i was surprised when i called a local shop about doing the swap on my G and he said $500 bucks labor. The same price i paid for my Mustangs gear swap in 1994. I was expecting a higher price honestly. You know, because inflation...

 

I bought mine on one of the vendors sites. Can't recall which. But if you'll place a WTB add on the PC's and on the vendor WTB threads you'll get some good offers. Check Amazon the last member I helped found one on there for $400 that included the splash shield. FYI the $350 One that I bought did not come with a splash shield, so I had to buy one later for $50 more. Just make sure you ask the seller if the splash shield is included or not.

The takeda LTCAI will be well worth the $400. Best sway bars offer I've gotten from a vendor so far has been $375 shipped.

So $775 and you'll have 2 great bang for buck starter mods.

 

I'll need to check but I know Brandon and JP are both parting out, they were both running the Stillen Gen 3 if you're looking for a CAI. I may switch to a Gen 3 also but I really like my R2Cs for the midrange and sound. But if I go Gen 3 I can add some other uneeded but fun goodies... Though... I have an idea about a "ram air" set up that I think could be fun. Not certain if it will flow with the lines though.

If I had it all to do over again
Sways
Intake
BBK (I have an X)
Wheels and tires
Springs, coilovers or bags
RHFCs and CBE
FTSB
Appearance depends on personal taste. What I wanted originally I'm now changing but it's an evolution I suppose.
M370
Gears (if I didn't have an X)
Tune

 

Personally this time I'm going visual before proformance because my license is under probation lol, once that's done its on to proformance.

 

Interesting that people are saying long tube cold air intake is best bang for your buck.

I have a 2008 TL with a cold air intake and notice no difference besides sound

As a matter of fact if you jump on the acura forums everyone will tell you that it's the worse hp to $ ratio and your better off buying other exhaust parts

 

if you want an intake it is

not mod #1

 

There are a number of factors; dual throttle bodies, actual cold air from in front of the radiator, and potential benefit from modifying the resonance frequency of the air stream... or so goes the theory.

Apples and not-apples, qmantran... every car is different.

 

Is the stillen G worth the extra money? I've read countless threads about it and they say it's almost like BMW vs Bens or Audi vs Bens. All great stuff but it depends on the person.

Personally I was going to get a takeda CAI. But if the stillens are proven to be more efficient, than I'll look into those. Never really gave R2C a thought.

And if a CBE doesn't give that much output as I ezpected and is mainly for sound , would a muffler delete be retarded or should I just wait. I just see a whole bunch of people doing them, so who knows.

My first mods now are going to be Takeda intake and sways. Than im going to do more research on my cats situation haha. I might do a muffler delete too but idk

Thanks for the input.

 

wow you really havent read one thing weve said

why even start a thread ?

 

Go browse through the list of threads the OP has created. There's kind of pattern. But hey, it's harmless, and just a car forum, after-all. And occasionally some good discussion can occur in the most innocuous of places.


There, see? It was all worth it.

 

I actually have. But I mean.. You just told me to make a new thread. So ... I appreciate your help but thanks anyways

edit: not hating on you, but your def hating on ya boy. I am reading, but I'm not on yall level... But like I said, thanks for the contribution but you don't have to give any more input if you don't think I'm "listenig"