Hey this is my first official post. let me start by saying i have done a bunch of research prior to posting this and cannot find my problem. I recently bought a 2012 G37s 6MT with 16k miles. Car hasnt had any problems until last night.

To start out, five mins after leaving my house, the gas light came on and the dash showed i had 35 miles left...the destination i was going to was far less than that so i figured id make it without a problem and there was a gas station in the area. about 15 miles into it i noticed my car wouldnt allow me to accelerate fast or floor it even after downshifting. i figured that was just a way for the car to save gas without leaving you stranded and didnt think much of it. about 2 miles later i stopped by gas station and got her filled up. for about 5 min it was fine and accelerated without any problems until it started to jerk and hesitate upon acceleration...later went back to the first issue were it wouldnt allow me to accelerate fast...mean time no check engine light came on. after my destination id figure it would go away after sitting for a little but no luck, while idling it would be ruff and rpms would fluctuate.

later in the day the check engine light finally came on and actually made the car run less spereticky. i parked the car at home overnight and figured id go to the auto parts store and get an obd2 reader to check codes...but when i went to start car in the morning it would start, jump rpms to 2500 and then down to 400 than up to 1000rpm and than just choke out and die....i tried resetting ecu and all sorts difff thing without any luck.

I read up on the Throttle body threads and thought that that was an issue, so ofcoarse i cleaned both TB, carefully following the correct procedures for this. this also didnt fix the issue. now i cant take my car to check codes and i do not have warrenty for the car as i bought the car salvaged so this fix is going to have to be on me. mind i tell you i know my way around a car.

my question is, could it be that i burned up my fuel pump, or perhaps got air into it, could it be an 02 sensor, or something with the MAF sensor?
any help would be greatly appreciated as i am new to Infiniti. thanks in advance

 

Yeah, it's possible you burned up your fuel pump by running without lubrication and cooling.


Sounds like you're bogging though, did you see any codes?

 

I didnt fully run out of gas were the car stalled out...i just dropped dangerously low. Has anyone on here experienced this before? I couldnt find much on the fuel pump for these cars.

 

I questioned the dealer quite a bit about the gas tank before and I was told that it is a 20 gallon tank but the "miles to empty" is based on 18 gallons with a 2 gallon reserve just in case you get too low it wont ruin the car. So I dobt think you were as low as you think. I would definatley go to the dealer with the issue. Just my 2 cents. Good luck

 

Only problem is i cant drive the car. it could be something big or something very small so i dont want to start throwing money left and right to get this fixed. going to rule out things first. just called dealer and they quoted me $501 for pump and $25 for O-ring. i cant beleive that a car so expensive would have such a faulty pump that would burn up if you go too low. I just need to get my hands on an OBD-2 reader to check codes. but local shop wont allow me to take the reader home...i called many diff places and same thing...really considering buying one.

I wonder if the fuel filter just got plugged up from picking dirt off the bottom of tank after going too low on gas.

 

You can get your OBD2 read at Autozone for free.

 

Why was the car salvaged? Flood damage perhaps? You may want to invest in a AAA membership, which includes towing.

I doubt this has to do with the gas tank/fuel pump, but it certainly could.

I'd try and get it to the dealer if I were you, or get it to an auto parts store to get the codes read.

 

Do you have any other method of transportation? Other car? Friends? Bicycle? Roller Blades?

I'd get to an auto parts store - purchase an OBD2 reader - and see what codes you have. The readers are inexpensive...

Otherwise - we are all just guessing.

One question - when you filled it up - how many gallons did it take?

 

I do have other means of transportation and im considering purchasing the OBD2 reader. the car just had minor body damage, changed fender and bumper. no engine damage. also one thing to point out, when i bought the car, the previous owner did a muffler delete so idk if that could have something to do with it.

 

I don't think minor body damage renders a vehicle salvage.

Did you research the history of this vehicle?
Over 400,000 vehicles were flooded by hurricane Sandy.
Perhaps you bought one of them?

Good luck

Telcoman

 

Yes I researched it. I bought the car out of Van Nuys, Ca. No flood. I just got it hooked up to an OBD2 reader and came up with code P0113. IAT sensor 1 Circut high input.

 

this happened to one of my cars after street racing it and when i ran the codes it said intake manifold valve was stuck open. hope this helps

 

First, if you have access to a scan tool, is there an IAT reading? If the IAT reading is logical then the problem is likely intermittent. If the reading is less than -30 degrees, unplug the connector. Install a jumper wire between the harness connector signal and ground circuits. The IAT temperature reading on the scan tool should be maxed out at the high end. For example it should be 280 degrees Farenheit or higher. If it is, the wiring is okay, and it may have been the connection. If it isn't install the jumper wire between the IAT signal circuit and the chassis ground. If now the IAT reading on the scan tool is maxed out then check for an open in the IAT ground circuit. If you get no reading at all on the scan tool, it's likely that the sensor signal is open or the 5 volt reference is missing. Check using a DVOM (digital volt ohm meter) for a 5 volt reference. If it's there, then unplug the connector at the PCM and check for continuity on the IAT signal circuit between the PCM connector and the IAT connector.

Read more at: OBD-II Trouble Code: P0113 Intake Air Temperature Circuit High Input
Copyright © OBD-Codes.com...

I found this online. also check youtube i saw something about it just type the code

 

All is good guys I figured out the problem. Turns out the IAT is built into the MAF sensor so I unplugged one and tried starting the car, no change, plugged if back in and unplugged the passenger side, and it started but stayed at 2000 RPMs for about 10 secs and than dropped and than died. So I took out the MAF sensor to inspect it (passenger side) and what do you know...a piece of blooming flower from a tree in the front yard of my house, about half the diameter of a penny wrapped itself around one of the diodes...causing the inaccurate reading of the air temperature this causing the ECU to not know the amount of fuel to push for a cold start, hence the big out of the engine, making it seem as if there wasn't enough fuel coming to the car. But all is good and thanks all for your input! I am a happy camper now

 

Check your air filter housings and filters!