Sedan Chat Thread
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Sounds a lot like the clutch pedal position sensor. It's a little plunger switch attached to the clutch pedal that allows you to start the ignition with assurance that the transmission isn't engaged. I suffered through months with inconsistent symptoms like you're describing, before realizing it was this little switch. Cost about $20 at the dealership parts department. Relatively easy DIY install, but you have to get upside down under the driver's footwell, and have good lighting. One of those forehead lights could come in handy for the job.
This happened back in 2016, and the new pedal switch fixed the problem instantly. Then two years later the same random behavior crept back, and I replaced the switch a second time. However it wasn't the switch that time around, it was the starter itself. Had an independent shop install a reman Nissan starter, and I've been good since.
Short story, start small (with the switch) before going big with a new starter. But since you already swapped in a new starter, it's probably this little guy causing all your problems.
Here's a pic:
This happened back in 2016, and the new pedal switch fixed the problem instantly. Then two years later the same random behavior crept back, and I replaced the switch a second time. However it wasn't the switch that time around, it was the starter itself. Had an independent shop install a reman Nissan starter, and I've been good since.
Short story, start small (with the switch) before going big with a new starter. But since you already swapped in a new starter, it's probably this little guy causing all your problems.
Here's a pic:
Last edited by Rochester; 07-01-2021 at 08:29 PM.
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RosaP-37S-G (07-01-2021)
Registered Member
Thank you Rochester.
I can feel the microswitch "click" when I fully depress the clutch pedal, so that's pretty much the only other thing on my radar other than the typical battery/alternator/starter stuff.
I'll look into that and hopefully get that done over the weekend!
I can feel the microswitch "click" when I fully depress the clutch pedal, so that's pretty much the only other thing on my radar other than the typical battery/alternator/starter stuff.
I'll look into that and hopefully get that done over the weekend!
Registered Member
Just bought the switch from O'Reilly, and a pen light from Walmart. I'm not finding a YouTube video on this, should be pretty plug and play correct?
I have a feeling the set screw thing will be annoying I'm sure that's to control the amount of travel needed to activate the switch, any tips on where that should be set?
I have a feeling the set screw thing will be annoying I'm sure that's to control the amount of travel needed to activate the switch, any tips on where that should be set?
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You'll figure it out once you see it. It's not rocket science, but it is awkward to access (if you're old and out of shape )
Be sure to replace the right one. There's a similar switch which turns off the cruise control when you depress the clutch pedal.
Be sure to replace the right one. There's a similar switch which turns off the cruise control when you depress the clutch pedal.
Registered Member
So I can see both switches, my understanding is the circled switch is the starter clutch position sensor, the "arrow" would be the cruise control sensor?
It's awkward but not nearly as deep as I thought it was going to be.
I just tried holding in the switch with a windshield cleaner stick thing, and starting the car (in neutral) - had the same problem so I feel like the circled sensor is the correct one
It's awkward but not nearly as deep as I thought it was going to be.
I just tried holding in the switch with a windshield cleaner stick thing, and starting the car (in neutral) - had the same problem so I feel like the circled sensor is the correct one
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I just don't remember. But that doesn't mean you can't figure it out yourself, or someone else can PM you answers. GL
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So I can see both switches, my understanding is the circled switch is the starter clutch position sensor, the "arrow" would be the cruise control sensor?
It's awkward but not nearly as deep as I thought it was going to be.
I just tried holding in the switch with a windshield cleaner stick thing, and starting the car (in neutral) - had the same problem so I feel like the circled sensor is the correct one
It's awkward but not nearly as deep as I thought it was going to be.
I just tried holding in the switch with a windshield cleaner stick thing, and starting the car (in neutral) - had the same problem so I feel like the circled sensor is the correct one
The arrow is the CLUTCH POSITION SWITCH which is used to cancel the cruise control and for the Z engages the rev-match mode.
Looks like your sensor might be ok from a visual perspective however this sensor sees action anytime you move the pedal and it's a common failure.
Disconnect the sensor connector install it into the new sensor and press it with your hand while you start and should let you know if this is the case. Another way to find out is when youre pressing the pedal if the "PRESS CLUTCH" icon in the speedometer is still on then it's a straight giveaway that the sensor is not registering.
Are you sure youre not getting the ORANGE KEY LIGHT for STEERING LOCK? A steering lock failure will act like a bad interlock switch btw.
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iCrap (07-07-2021)
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Putting a cheaply available OBD2 digital gauge where the analog clock sits. iCrap designed and printed the filler panel, and we're tweaking it to get it right. It will not be (unless he wants to make them) a finished product - more, buy this filler panel, the $40 gauge from Amazon, and figure out how to assemble it yourself LOL.
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iCrap (07-07-2021)
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Just curious as my plan was/is to [eventually] put a oil pressure gauge/ display where the passenger airbag idiot light is.
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iCrap (07-07-2021)
Registered Member
Correct. The circled sensor completes the circuit of the CLUTCH INTERLOCK SWITCH which tells the BCM that the clutch is pressed.
The arrow is the CLUTCH POSITION SWITCH which is used to cancel the cruise control and for the Z engages the rev-match mode.
Looks like your sensor might be ok from a visual perspective however this sensor sees action anytime you move the pedal and it's a common failure.
Disconnect the sensor connector install it into the new sensor and press it with your hand while you start and should let you know if this is the case. Another way to find out is when youre pressing the pedal if the "PRESS CLUTCH" icon in the speedometer is still on then it's a straight giveaway that the sensor is not registering.
Are you sure youre not getting the ORANGE KEY LIGHT for STEERING LOCK? A steering lock failure will act like a bad interlock switch btw.
The arrow is the CLUTCH POSITION SWITCH which is used to cancel the cruise control and for the Z engages the rev-match mode.
Looks like your sensor might be ok from a visual perspective however this sensor sees action anytime you move the pedal and it's a common failure.
Disconnect the sensor connector install it into the new sensor and press it with your hand while you start and should let you know if this is the case. Another way to find out is when youre pressing the pedal if the "PRESS CLUTCH" icon in the speedometer is still on then it's a straight giveaway that the sensor is not registering.
Are you sure youre not getting the ORANGE KEY LIGHT for STEERING LOCK? A steering lock failure will act like a bad interlock switch btw.
The "PRESS CLUTCH" icon would stay on when I was having the intermittent starting issues.
I can't thank you guys enough - the new sensor from O'reileys was exactly what we needed, it's been clean starts for the past few days.
Here's a link to it if anyone needs it, I know some places online are a few dollars less, but the ability to just pick it up same day made this very convenient for me: https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c...8-infiniti-g37
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Valve cover on the other hand can be tricky, since I started using Nissan RTV i've never had an issue of it failing on me. The issue with the valve covers is that most will take the time to clean all of the removable parts and this can take time along with anything that requires replacement. Proper planning will pay off when the time comes. Hex sockets, needle nose plies, brake cleaner, RTV, magnetic 10mm are some of the tools that will help tremendously on this. Lastly try to use OEM gaskets, they are worth it.
Let's break the ice, what are you familiar with?