Is the G37 Sedan meant to be driven hard?
05-31-2011, 01:45 AM
#31
Me too, after I saw the OAs from Blackstone. Love that oil, engine runs great, and it no longer sounds like a diesel after hard runs. PU is great for our cars, apparently, even though it contains no esters. But I think PU is great for every car most likely. But it certainly seems to work well with our insanely close frictional tolerances.
05-31-2011, 09:13 PM
#32
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Where do you guys buy your Pennzoil Ultra, and what do you pay? I had to search quite a bit to find it at Advance for $7.78/qt. The Pennzoil site "oil locator" turned up only service facilities, not retailers.
06-01-2011, 08:30 AM
#34
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06-01-2011, 10:36 PM
#36
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I have a question regarding this...
When can the car be driven hard? I was always curious when the car is ready to be driven hard, in terms of when you start it.
After a certain amount of miles? certain amount of minutes? operating temperature? I always see my neighbor in the morning turn out of our neighborhood and gun it. I usually keep it under 3k until I get on the highway which is 3 miles north of me, and about 10 minutes through traffic.
When can the car be driven hard? I was always curious when the car is ready to be driven hard, in terms of when you start it.
After a certain amount of miles? certain amount of minutes? operating temperature? I always see my neighbor in the morning turn out of our neighborhood and gun it. I usually keep it under 3k until I get on the highway which is 3 miles north of me, and about 10 minutes through traffic.
06-01-2011, 11:22 PM
#37
I have a question regarding this...
When can the car be driven hard? I was always curious when the car is ready to be driven hard, in terms of when you start it.
After a certain amount of miles? certain amount of minutes? operating temperature? I always see my neighbor in the morning turn out of our neighborhood and gun it. I usually keep it under 3k until I get on the highway which is 3 miles north of me, and about 10 minutes through traffic.
When can the car be driven hard? I was always curious when the car is ready to be driven hard, in terms of when you start it.
After a certain amount of miles? certain amount of minutes? operating temperature? I always see my neighbor in the morning turn out of our neighborhood and gun it. I usually keep it under 3k until I get on the highway which is 3 miles north of me, and about 10 minutes through traffic.
07-15-2011, 06:00 PM
#38
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a more interesting question for me would be:
should the car be driven hard during break in (first 1000miles or so) or driven as per the instruction manual?
I've seen some posts where "experts" claimed that the best way to break in our G's or any high performance car is to drive it like you stole it.
I've seen suggestions that the car should be cycled to 5000rpms on each gear up to 7th and then use engine breaking to bring it back down again dropping gears each gear @ 3000rpm. This apparently should be repeated for 50kms then the engine switched off and left to cool and the oil drained and replaced with new oil.
should the car be driven hard during break in (first 1000miles or so) or driven as per the instruction manual?
I've seen some posts where "experts" claimed that the best way to break in our G's or any high performance car is to drive it like you stole it.
I've seen suggestions that the car should be cycled to 5000rpms on each gear up to 7th and then use engine breaking to bring it back down again dropping gears each gear @ 3000rpm. This apparently should be repeated for 50kms then the engine switched off and left to cool and the oil drained and replaced with new oil.
07-16-2011, 12:39 AM
#39
um no...
Do not confuse coolant temp w/ oil temp, two very different things. install or ride with someone who has an oil temp gauge--- you will be surprised how long the oil remains below operating temp once the coolant is warmed up.
Last edited by jddssc121; 07-16-2011 at 12:44 AM.
07-16-2011, 12:41 AM
#40
i was going to respond with the exact same thing until i saw your post.
"IT'S DOES IT ON PURPOSE"
07-16-2011, 12:15 PM
#41
Registered User
Thanks guys. Im glad that my spirited driving is not really abusive to the car. I want to keep her for atleast 5 more years and maintain her in top form.
Any other inputs ?
Does your car sit out in the sun and/or freezing weather? What caused the leather seating surface to crack?
What exactly is hard driving then ? I dont care about replacing brake pads or tires but dont want to mess up the tranny , engine or other high dollar items
Any other inputs ?
Does your car sit out in the sun and/or freezing weather? What caused the leather seating surface to crack?
What exactly is hard driving then ? I dont care about replacing brake pads or tires but dont want to mess up the tranny , engine or other high dollar items
09-13-2011, 12:37 PM
#42
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Drive it gently until the car is fully warmed up. Just like your girlfriend or wife 
Seriously though, here are my thoughts:
The vast majority of engine wear occurs on startup, nothing you can do about that. Keep your fluids changed at or before the recommended schedule and you'll be fine.
Brakes and tires (and to a point, suspension components) are disposable. Use them, enjoy them, and replace them when necessary.
Excessive bumps and body flex will eventually loosen interior panels and contribute to rattling. Not much you can do about it, so why worry?
The engine/transmission will handle just about any abuse you can throw at it, provided the fluid is clean and fresh. These engines have steel timing chains so that shouldn't be a problem either. But when you rev up to 7500 RPM, the engine, gears and differential aren't the only things turning that fast. Engine accessories (ac compressor, alternator, water pump, etc) are revving up too, and the prolonged heat tends to wear them out faster.
That said, drive it and enjoy it, stick to the maintenance schedule, and don't ever let your wife, girlfriend, or teenager drive it.
Seriously though, here are my thoughts:
The vast majority of engine wear occurs on startup, nothing you can do about that. Keep your fluids changed at or before the recommended schedule and you'll be fine.
Brakes and tires (and to a point, suspension components) are disposable. Use them, enjoy them, and replace them when necessary.
Excessive bumps and body flex will eventually loosen interior panels and contribute to rattling. Not much you can do about it, so why worry?
The engine/transmission will handle just about any abuse you can throw at it, provided the fluid is clean and fresh. These engines have steel timing chains so that shouldn't be a problem either. But when you rev up to 7500 RPM, the engine, gears and differential aren't the only things turning that fast. Engine accessories (ac compressor, alternator, water pump, etc) are revving up too, and the prolonged heat tends to wear them out faster.
That said, drive it and enjoy it, stick to the maintenance schedule, and don't ever let your wife, girlfriend, or teenager drive it.
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