2008 G37 Sport : A/C Compressor Replacement
2008 G37 Sport : A/C Compressor Replacement
My A/C compressor has failed on my 2008 G37 Sport (manual) and I am needing to replace it. To my knowledge, it’s important to replace the condenser as well otherwise you risk the new compressor prematurely failing. I was looking for some education / recommendations on what to purchase. I’m not looking for top shelf but rather just something to do the job as I’m likely going to sell sometime soon.
1) For compressor, I was looking at the Four Seasons 68674 w/ DCS17EC compressor w/ clutch, OE specified Oil from RockAuto. Will this fit with my vehicle? It appears it will according to their website but I wasn’t 100% sure.
2) From what I understand about this particular vehicle, the A/C condenser and radiator come as a single assembly. So essentially it seems that I’m replacing both the condenser and radiator. Is this correct?
3) assuming the above is correct, I was looking at purchasing a Nissan Radiator and AC condenser assembly (part #: 21410-JK20B) through z1 motor sports. This appears to be the most cost effective. Are there any other recommendations or knowledge on whether this part will fit my vehicle?
Any feedback is greatly appreciated!
1) For compressor, I was looking at the Four Seasons 68674 w/ DCS17EC compressor w/ clutch, OE specified Oil from RockAuto. Will this fit with my vehicle? It appears it will according to their website but I wasn’t 100% sure.
2) From what I understand about this particular vehicle, the A/C condenser and radiator come as a single assembly. So essentially it seems that I’m replacing both the condenser and radiator. Is this correct?
3) assuming the above is correct, I was looking at purchasing a Nissan Radiator and AC condenser assembly (part #: 21410-JK20B) through z1 motor sports. This appears to be the most cost effective. Are there any other recommendations or knowledge on whether this part will fit my vehicle?
Any feedback is greatly appreciated!
Not entirely sure. I had cool air at one point and over the course of 10 minutes there was no cooling whatsoever. Low pressure coolant line was at zero psi. Tried to add Freon but it wouldn't hold any kind of pressure. Took it to a shop and they brought me out to look once they had it opened up. Compressor oil was all over the ground. I initially thought it was antifreeze (neon green color) but it was a much thicker consistency which I would've expected from oil.
If the compressor had seized or shattered internally, you would know it. Based on your explanation, it seems more likely that one of the AC lines broke. While moderately rare, there have been cases where the high-side fitting broke/ came loose on some of these cars. You may want to check this thread. Also, the refrigerant oil has a UV dye added which aids in locating leaks when under a "black light" which is the neon green color you saw.
I doubt seriously you need to replace the compressor AND the condenser/radiator assembly.
I doubt seriously you need to replace the compressor AND the condenser/radiator assembly.
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I purchased the CSF unit from Z1 Motorsports. https://www.z1motorsports.com/radiat...SABEgKSw_D_BwE
I reached out to Z1 prior to purchasing to verify that it would fit my vehicle. They said it would but upon getting it, I realized that was NOT the case. The mechanic I asked to install the part said there was no way the upper radiator hose would go on without butchering the fan shroud. Now I'm having to go through the painstaking process of trying to get my money back from Z1. Extremely frustrating.
Last edited by pshirk; Apr 18, 2023 at 09:32 AM.
Interesting. In all the years I have been a member of the community, I have seen few AC compressor failures. I guess as these cars are getting up their in age (10-14 years), it should be expected. If you can. take of pic of the parts you purchase and report back on the replacement process as I expect others in the future may be able to leverage.
Compressor failures are relatively rare these days compared to the units of the 60's-80's. It is more likely for the seals or piping to fail than for the unit itself. In few cases, whenever a compressor seizes or shatters, it is usually due to either some hidden defect in the manufacturing process or excessive refrigerant pressures .
Now, in the old days, compressor failures were a lot more common mainly due to inactivity. AC-Delco (GM) was the worst as their belt pulley bearings were notorious for seizing. Back then, for many, the AC was barely used, if at all and almost never during the winter months. This resulted in the compressor sitting idle for extended periods of time. The rule of thumb was to run the compressor at least 5 minutes a month EVEN in the winter months. This allowed the refrigerant oil to circulate throughout the system to keep the seals, bearings, pistons, rotors, vanes, etc. lubricated. Of course if you had GM, well, pray.
Nowadays, with automatic AC systems, the compressor is usually engaged more so than it is not. This extends the health of the system greatly. As long as the condenser is kept clear and clean, failure rates are kept low. For these cars, the main "weak spot" in the system is Nissan's "one touch joint" connection that have a (small) history of failures, usually on the high-side of the system. This is what I suspect was the OP's original issue.
Now, in the old days, compressor failures were a lot more common mainly due to inactivity. AC-Delco (GM) was the worst as their belt pulley bearings were notorious for seizing. Back then, for many, the AC was barely used, if at all and almost never during the winter months. This resulted in the compressor sitting idle for extended periods of time. The rule of thumb was to run the compressor at least 5 minutes a month EVEN in the winter months. This allowed the refrigerant oil to circulate throughout the system to keep the seals, bearings, pistons, rotors, vanes, etc. lubricated. Of course if you had GM, well, pray.
Nowadays, with automatic AC systems, the compressor is usually engaged more so than it is not. This extends the health of the system greatly. As long as the condenser is kept clear and clean, failure rates are kept low. For these cars, the main "weak spot" in the system is Nissan's "one touch joint" connection that have a (small) history of failures, usually on the high-side of the system. This is what I suspect was the OP's original issue.
I purchased the CSF unit from Z1 Motorsports. https://www.z1motorsports.com/radiat...SABEgKSw_D_BwE
I reached out to Z1 prior to purchasing to verify that it would fit my vehicle. They said it would but upon getting it, I realized that was NOT the case. The mechanic I asked to install the part said there was no way the upper radiator hose would go on without butchering the fan shroud. Now I'm having to go through the painstaking process of trying to get my money back from Z1. Extremely frustrating.
I reached out to Z1 prior to purchasing to verify that it would fit my vehicle. They said it would but upon getting it, I realized that was NOT the case. The mechanic I asked to install the part said there was no way the upper radiator hose would go on without butchering the fan shroud. Now I'm having to go through the painstaking process of trying to get my money back from Z1. Extremely frustrating.
Interesting. In all the years I have been a member of the community, I have seen few AC compressor failures. I guess as these cars are getting up their in age (10-14 years), it should be expected. If you can. take of pic of the parts you purchase and report back on the replacement process as I expect others in the future may be able to leverage.
- Four Seasons 68674 w/ DCS17EC compressor w/ clutch - $233 (https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...t=6628&jsn=831)
- Genuine Nissan Advantage Line Radiator/Condenser unit ~$640 (mechanic sourced this; likely includes markup)
- Supposedly a more cost effective route than the standard unit you purchase from Nissan which is around $860. This route was only taken after the CSF unit did NOT fit
- ~$700 in labor
- ~$90 in Freon
- Shop originally quoted me ~$2800 to source parts and do install
Thanks for sharing pshirk. Seems to make sense that the recommendation is to replace the compressor and condenser in tandem. Since the radiator was also replaced, it sounds like you ended up with a new HVAC & refurbished cooling system for roughly 2K, which seems reasonable as I imagine there was a fair amount of labor involved (not sure what the book is on the job, but this could realistically take a full day I'm sure).
Excellent post above ILM-NC G37S. It sounds like you are in the industry? I have owned several cars from the 70-90s that had the AC system go south and the car lost a large percentage of its value as a result because a replacement was over a thousand dollars many years ago. I recall my old man telling me to run the AC in the winter because it will last longer...
Excellent post above ILM-NC G37S. It sounds like you are in the industry? I have owned several cars from the 70-90s that had the AC system go south and the car lost a large percentage of its value as a result because a replacement was over a thousand dollars many years ago. I recall my old man telling me to run the AC in the winter because it will last longer...
Last edited by socketz67; Apr 19, 2023 at 10:25 AM.








