Ok so I recently had a bunch of codes referring to a bad oxygen sensor in bank 2 sensor 1 (upstream). I decided to be productive and replace both upstream sensors. I bought two from rock auto. Had my mechanic replace em both. However on the drive home. I didn’t get a code for bank 2 sensor 1. Instead I got a code for bank 1 sensor 1(p0031-p0130). The opposite side. What is going on??? 😡.

(for what it’s worth my car is a g37s coupe Fully bolted and tuned, and I did hit the flame map a few times going home. Idk if that causes em to break and I literally installed it 30 mins ago). Any help is much appreciated.

 

It looks like the bank 1, sensor 1 is bad.
With the importance of the air/fuel sensor to engine life, I would only use a Nissan/Infiniti sensor.
Sometimes the RockAuto parts are low quality / low cost.

Code definitions as per Factory Service Manual:
P0031: Bank 1
• The current amperage in the A/F sensor 1 heater circuit is out of the normal range.
(An excessively low voltage signal is sent to ECM through the A/F sensor 1 heater.)

P0103: Bank 1
• The A/F signal computed by ECM from the A/F sensor 1 signal is constantly in a range other than approx. 2.2 V.
• The A/F signal computed by ECM from the A/F sensor 1 signal is constantly approx. 2.2 V.

 

[thanks for the reply I’m going to check the connections today since the car is cold. If it’s still giving me that code then I guess I’ll get a different brand. I thought HTK was a quality brand though. They were 150






QUOTE=SonicVQ;4276480]It looks like the bank 1, sensor 1 is bad.
With the importance of the air/fuel sensor to engine life, I would only use a Nissan/Infiniti sensor.
Sometimes the RockAuto parts are low quality / low cost.

Code definitions as per Factory Service Manual:
P0031: Bank 1
• The current amperage in the A/F sensor 1 heater circuit is out of the normal range.
(An excessively low voltage signal is sent to ECM through the A/F sensor 1 heater.)

P0103: Bank 1
• The A/F signal computed by ECM from the A/F sensor 1 signal is constantly in a range other than approx. 2.2 V.
• The A/F signal computed by ECM from the A/F sensor 1 signal is constantly approx. 2.2 V.[/QUOTE]

 

You could use your OBD scanner to view the live data of both upstream sensors.
Once they are fully warmed up, they should show about 2.2 volts.

It is my understanding that flame/pops maps (dumping fuel in the exhaust and igniting it) does shorten O2 sensor life due to the pressure shock wave of the "bang" stressing the ceramic core.

 

Hey bro Here’s what they’re reading I’m getting a code for both sensors now any thoughts? My tuner said switch from HTK to Bosch

 

are you sure the fuse for the oxygen sensors is good and not blown. the fault code for both bank 1 and 2 is for the heater circuit. check the fuse for the heater circuit first. are you sure the oxygen sensors are the correct application for your vehicle? in addition i am not aware of the voltage to the oxygen sensors being only around 2.2volts as being normal for the heater circuit.

 

@SonicVQ is it bad if the o2 sensors volts are at 2.2 the only code i have is po300 could the sensors be causing that??

 

It depends on engine load.
At idle, 2.2 volts is good and equals an air/fuel ratio of 14.7. (aka lambda = 1)
2.2v at high engine load is not good, as the engine is running lean.

Look at the freeze frame data and see what the engine load, RPM and coolant temp was when the P0300 was declared.
You could also monitor the Lambda live data. It should be at 1.0 during cruse/low-medium engine load. At full throttle is will be ~0.8 and then close the throttle and it will be ~2.0

 

ok i will check my scanner to see if i can find that tmr but this is the video i have previously recorded

 

With the importance of the air/fuel sensor to engine life, I would only use a Nissan/Infiniti sensor.

 

Will changing the Valve Cover Gasket and Intake Manifold Gasket make any difference?