Ive driven 500kms and i still have the reduced power on the low end. Mid and high seem a tad better (unless im just getting used to it =/)

Now all of a sudden im running hotter. Tonight went for a drive and coolant temp was 190 while my oil temp wasnt even warm yet.. then i was running 208f coolant and 219f oil temp with zero spirited driving and its a cool night as well.... (never went over 3500 rpm)




Coolant temp seems to rise as im stopped at red lights then cools down a tad when moving. Bah. Going to replace my rad cap tomorrow when i can run over to nissan parts and see if that helps. Then see what else i can come up with afterwards.

 

I still say the ECU software "update" that the dealer performed is to blame.

 

They must've disconnected the battery for a long time or something. It does sound like a ecu reset type of thing. I think there's a way to reset the ecu yourself if you look in the DYI section of this forum. Good luck with it all man. But definitely be giving the dealership hell, cuz they brokeddd it. And DO NOT pay a dime haha.

 

Find the temp coolant sensor, disconnect it, and spray some electrical cleaner on there.

 

The update they said only addresses premature engine codes. Apparently they have been having engines throw codes when they shouldnt be. .

Im going to avoid that infiniti dealer now. I never deal with dealers and the one time i decide just to do my coolant flush with them, this happens. I dont trust that dealer with my car at all now.

I ordered a rad cap just for the hell of it ( none in stock, i get it monday) Going to double check fans, see if thermostat seems to be opening as well. Im also considering upgrading my radiator to the CSF, doing the thermostat, all rad hoses if i dont figure anything out in the next week.

 

Thats a good tip, ill try that. Thanks man.

 

I used to do the pedal dance reset often, and the relearn procedures but thats more to reset just how the car has learned your driving style i believe. I wanted to give the relearn after the ecu update a chance first. Ive driven 500kms, done a few laps at a track since then and the car hasnt changed so dont think its a relearn problem anymore

 

There is a difference between resetting and reflashing a ECU. Just wanted to throw that out for clarity for some forum members. The two terms are not synonymous.

The dealer can say whatever they want. It is strange that you had ZERO issues with your car and then the same day they update/reflash your ECU these issues start popping up. Somewhere within the newer software some engine management parameters were changed.

Sorry, I just do not believe in coincidences.

I hope you get everything back to normal.

 

I agree with you ILM-NC. Just man the service advisers and the tech seem like a brick wall on this case. When i went back i got a new service advisor and same tech.
I took a day off, spent time there and no cigar. They cant reflash ( he tried) and both seem clueless about what the issue is and think the car runs fine. Im just so frustrated and seeing as going there does nothing but waste time, im feeling i have to just figure out what happened without them or as a last resort take it to a known nissan performance shop here thats apparently very good ( just very busy)

 

My opinion? If your car doesn't return to your version of normal, take it to the performance shop. They should be able to unlock the ECU and reflash the previous software version. Unless you have serious symptoms, don't start throwing parts at it unnecessarily.

 

Thats exactly what im thinking.

I just started it and let it warm up. I did notice my fans dont come on. Makes sense why she was getting hot at red lights the other night. I hit ac they both seem to kick on so they can turn. At this coolant temp i imagine they should have kicked in.

(Ignore the obd not connected bit on the pic, i took the screenshot after shutting her down

Anyhow i shut her down for now so as not to overheat her. i guess no car for me this weekend lol if i cant get my fans to kick on this weekend, ill just make an appointment with that performance shop and see what they can do.

My lack of power is secondary right now i guess. Cooling has become the priority

Thanks for all your input thus far btw

 

re: fans/cooling issue
Try running the IPDM/er self-diagnostic first:


This will help you determine if both of your fans are working at low and high speeds, check the operation of the fan control module and the PWC (fan) relay. If all above check out, then you can move upstream to the coolant temperature sensor, thermostat, radiator, etc.

In my case, the test showed that both of my fans were shot- they were barely turning at all. Luckily it turned out to be a quick fix for me.

At least the self-diagnostic will give you a starting point.

 

Oh now thats awesome! I will definitely give this a go.

 

I ran the diagnostic you suggested. Fans came on loud and clear after the 5 clicks (a.c. magnetic clutch test). So im guessing now its down to stuck thermostat or engine coolant temperature sensor.

That diagnostic door/ignition activation thing is pretty cool. Thanks for that info.

 

No problem, glad I was able to offer something useful. At least now you can eliminate most of the electronic side of the issue with exception to the coolant temperature sensor.

As a side note, keep in mind there could be a air bubble somewhere in the system from when the dealer flushed/replaced the coolant. Who knows how much coolant was lost vs.how much air was introduced when the coolant splattered all over the engine bay. You might just need to "burp" the system.

This thread might help you: DIY Coolant Change