So basically the tech said that when he dropped the bell housing he saw the flywheel wasn’t aligned, as in the little dowel pin was not inside the flywheel alignment hole however you call it. How was the car running fine for this past year and a half, I don’t know and he doesn’t know either. To my understanding a car won’t start when the flywheel is misaligned, so all this is confusing. My friend said the first time he put everything back together the car didn’t start, and he remembered to align the flywheel correctly, so he did, and car started and everything was good to go so that was that. Also the dowel pin looks to be squished in. Around the edges of the flywheel you can tell it’s shiny, as if it was scraping. So I think I’m better off replacing it with new.

Shoot I wrote a whole story and it kicked me out.
I’ll get to the point, it wasn’t actually the flywheel or anything to do with that. It turned out to be the oil gallery gasket blowing out, they found out when I told them to drop the oil pan and inspect for metal shavings, so they did that and found just that with a piece of gasket. They thought the noise was coming from the transmission since it was loudest in that area. Now after realizing there mistake, they think the noise was actually coming from cylinder 6 since it’s close to it.
Since I already had ordered a new flywheel/clutch kit I talked to the manager and told him all the bs his service advisor was making up. I also let him know I had bought the parts already, so after a bit of talking he let me off without paying anything. I had the car put back together and towed it out of there a few days after.
I’m looking for a new engine atm, I’ll also throw in the flywheel and clutch I just bought just because I have it now.
Now that I know of this issue, I’ll have the mechanic install these metal oil gallery gaskets to replace those cheap paper gaskets they used before.

Thats exactly what I’m saying. Rather unfortunate, but it is what it is.

I’m almost 100% sure the engine is destroyed. No codes no light nothing on the dash. Never tried a compression test. It all started one day while driving, noticed a slight low knocking/tapping noise once the rpms got around 3k. Didn’t think anything too serious about it and continued driving it every Saturday. Then the tapping got louder, and now i could hear it while city driving at around 40 mph, the noise could be heard all while I was accelerating. While the car was parked in neutral, If I held the rpms to about 2.5k, the tapping/knocking sound would come up, I had a mechanic check and see where the noise was coming from and he heard it coming from inside the engine, so I decided to have it diagnosed at the dealership just to be certain, since originally he thought the noise might be caused by a timing chain slack.
A family member drove the car to the dealer while I was at work, and he said half way there the car started to feel sluggish/weak. He would press the gas pedal and the car would not accelerate; as if nearly all the power had been lost. Also the knocking got 20x worse. He compared the noise to metal clanking against metal, and he was hoping the engine wouldn’t blow on him lol. So by the time he got to the dealership, the knocking sound was still as bad as it was before, only now the knocking was at idle. I’m just amused the techs didn’t know what they were dealing with here.