Hey, I've been racking my brain about this. It's about choosing the Stiilen S/C setup over a TT setup for power. I believe that one could reach 600+ if one thinks outside of the box. Yes the engine will no longer be a "stock" VQ but what is the limit to going with Stillen. I'm no mechanic/engineer so correct me where I'm wrong but let's talk shop people! What about upping the displacement? Doing internal work/balancing to achieve a higher RPM limit? Just buying a Turn Key built racing engine? I believe a TT setup will always be the go to for power but I'm trying to stick with a S/C setup. But I've yet to drive either type of boost just I don't want to wrap my car around something when the boost hits like a shotgun.

 

Remember you need to upgrade the tranny to handle that level of power. I believe the Stillen kit is set to a conservative number so the stock tranny won't blow up.

 

Just so you know, a built, stroked, supercharged, tuned setup will cost you over $12k EASY. For less than half of that, you could swap a 2JZ or LSX motor and have more power with more reliability. If you're willing to spend that much money, there's no point sticking with the VQ motor.

 

da hellz - LSX swaps are 6k now?

 

There's a thread on the370z board about a tuned Stillen kit making 440 whp. Lots of warnings to add cooling, though.

 

To be honest it isn't hard to control the boost. I can drive my TT slower than a N/A G37. If you don't trust yourself with being able to modulate the throttle to control boost then I would say neither is the answer. Choosing between the two comes down to finances and whether you want a linear power increase from the supercharger or a punch from a TT or single turbo.

 

Right? Even the salvage yards that didn't know anything before have caught on and are now pulling these motors and selling them for good coin. But, considering the motor mounts and brackets that all need to be custom made among numerous other things, yeah, it adds up. I'd rather 2J swap it for sure. But, that's just me thinking outside the box..

 

Depends on what your end goal is..

Are you a G37 Coupe AWD/RWD Auto/Manual or Sedan AWD/RWD Auto/Manual.

If you are looking for a little extra oumf to fast & furious the next guy at the lights on your way to get a slurpee....

 

I own the Coupe/RWD/MT, after my deployment I am going to start doing some track lessons and get read for some Weekend Warrior circuits. But this car will be my DD as well. I also blame youtube to wanting to put vettes/GTRs/...you name it in the rearview.
Who doesn't want an invitation to Race Wars?

Mouse_ Doesn't the tranny upgrades lean towards the autos? I do wonder what the limit is for a MT let alone our VLSD?
Kris_ That is thinking outside the box but I'm trying to stick with Infiniti/Nissan. you already named some headaches about the mechanical sides but then there would be the computer side as well?
Waste_ What power level are you at with that setup? Do you need to be WOT for it to boost because if that is how it works and not certain RPM(yes I know jack about how it all works as I've not driven one before, is all about the tune?) then I'm sure I can handle it, it only takes time and practice to learn something. This car won't act like a mustang leaving a carshow if I had to switch lanes?
Thanks for all the inputs guys.

 

First off - if you ever plan on reselling your VQ then you should not try to build it to be fast.

With that out of the way - what are your main goals? Wanting XXX hp is never a good goal to have. Many people make XXX hp goals on the dyno, but usually the cars are detuned/run less psi when they are actually driven on the street. Those that don't detune usually pop their motors in a short period of time after the XXX hp goal is reached on the dyno.

Also, wanting to put "vettes/GTRs/...you name it in the rearview" is a very broad statement and will be difficult to achieve unless you mean STOCK "vettes/GTRs/...you name it".

You really should have another vehicle to drive if you want a boosted VQ. While it is possible to DD a boosted VQ, you will still need a means of transportation for the downtime while the VQ gets boosted and when something unexpectedly breaks or puts your VQ out of commission.

As far as limits to the stock VLSD that isn't usually an issue - the reason that they are usually replaced is because they are inefficient at applying a lot of power to the ground.

 

I agree with everything ttv36 is saying. If I didn't have a second daily, it would have been impossible for me to go this route. And to be brutally honest, it hasn't been worth the headache and cost.


To answer your question: I have a couple of boost settings, my maximum is something like 13 PSI which makes 550 WHP. I usually never run this mode as it is not needed. My default boost map is around wastegate pressure, which is something in the mid 6s which produces mid 400s WHP. It depends on gear how much throttle I have to give to start building boost. I would say maybe 25-33% throttle starts building it. Even with 305 tires the VLSD slip light comes on all the time. Putting th power down is a huge issue,

 

Yup also since you are already 6MT the VLSD is 3.69 final drive, upgrading to 3.916 wouldn't be as big for you as 7AT guys with 3.3 Final Drive..

Even superchargers i;'ve heard issues with the belt slipping off and the air to water setup isnt ideal either.

There JWT stage 1 cams which gives us 30WTQ (Midrange) and 10WHP (Topend) which would fill in that torqueless midrange for us, but installation is a pain...

 

TT_ My XXXHP goal would be what ever the car/build could handle safely, if that is 500WHP then I want everything else built to support +600whp so I can drive like I stole it and not worry about breaking it AS much.

Here is a side note, whice if anyone can relate or explain then please do, I understand that each dyno with each tuner will give a different output. I took mine in for a base run and with R2C CAI and a lightweight flywheel my output read 260whp @6100 and 234wtq @4300, why did the run stop at 6100 RPM and not run to max eng speed? They used a Dynojet Research with CF: SAE smoothing and thats all I can read off the pic on my phone. Is it a self auto thing that turns it off when the power just reached its max(which ours is roughly 278-284 at the wheels right) or did the guy just stop it there, can the machine I used only go to 6500 which was the final number posted on the graph but my line stopped at 6100? Would those two upgrades really lessen my output without a re-tune? Having less weight at the fly should have increased my WHP not my crank HP. Yes it would be minimal but I thought.....is it rotational mass here that I'm thinking? Two cars, same CRANK HP one car has less weight to spin and that could be at the fly/driveshaft/brakes/wheels then each car will give different WHP?
Next time I hit port I will try to figure out how to upload the pic.

Waste_ If I can plan it out, then I would deliver the car for an upgrade while I'm deployed so I won't need a car to drive. But to trust a company for XX months If that won't work I am close to my work and I would just ride a bike.

Neglect_ I have not heard of the 3.916 but the 4.08 I have. And the JWT cams I heard about and was thinking of the upgrade as well, but it seems like a lot of people are wondering if the $$ vs. ++ is worth it.

 

Yeah Z1 and other online retailers sell the 3.916, 4.08 and 4.36 final drive.

A lot of people are waiting on the stage 2 cams which are suppose to be launched in the quarter (fall apparently) Id say if the gains on those bad boys are 50WTQ+ it would be a dream..

 

Is that figure assuming they are being mated to a turbo'd motor?