Thinking of outside the box
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From: GA
TT_ My XXXHP goal would be what ever the car/build could handle safely, if that is 500WHP then I want everything else built to support +600whp so I can drive like I stole it and not worry about breaking it AS much.
Here is a side note, whice if anyone can relate or explain then please do, I understand that each dyno with each tuner will give a different output. I took mine in for a base run and with R2C CAI and a lightweight flywheel my output read 260whp @6100 and 234wtq @4300, why did the run stop at 6100 RPM and not run to max eng speed? They used a Dynojet Research with CF: SAE smoothing and thats all I can read off the pic on my phone. Is it a self auto thing that turns it off when the power just reached its max(which ours is roughly 278-284 at the wheels right) or did the guy just stop it there, can the machine I used only go to 6500 which was the final number posted on the graph but my line stopped at 6100? Would those two upgrades really lessen my output without a re-tune? Having less weight at the fly should have increased my WHP not my crank HP. Yes it would be minimal but I thought.....is it rotational mass here that I'm thinking? Two cars, same CRANK HP one car has less weight to spin and that could be at the fly/driveshaft/brakes/wheels then each car will give different WHP?
Next time I hit port I will try to figure out how to upload the pic.
Waste_ If I can plan it out, then I would deliver the car for an upgrade while I'm deployed so I won't need a car to drive. But to trust a company for XX months
If that won't work I am close to my work and I would just ride a bike.
Neglect_ I have not heard of the 3.916 but the 4.08 I have. And the JWT cams I heard about and was thinking of the upgrade as well, but it seems like a lot of people are wondering if the $$ vs. ++ is worth it.
Here is a side note, whice if anyone can relate or explain then please do, I understand that each dyno with each tuner will give a different output. I took mine in for a base run and with R2C CAI and a lightweight flywheel my output read 260whp @6100 and 234wtq @4300, why did the run stop at 6100 RPM and not run to max eng speed? They used a Dynojet Research with CF: SAE smoothing and thats all I can read off the pic on my phone. Is it a self auto thing that turns it off when the power just reached its max(which ours is roughly 278-284 at the wheels right) or did the guy just stop it there, can the machine I used only go to 6500 which was the final number posted on the graph but my line stopped at 6100? Would those two upgrades really lessen my output without a re-tune? Having less weight at the fly should have increased my WHP not my crank HP. Yes it would be minimal but I thought.....is it rotational mass here that I'm thinking? Two cars, same CRANK HP one car has less weight to spin and that could be at the fly/driveshaft/brakes/wheels then each car will give different WHP?
Next time I hit port I will try to figure out how to upload the pic.
Waste_ If I can plan it out, then I would deliver the car for an upgrade while I'm deployed so I won't need a car to drive. But to trust a company for XX months
If that won't work I am close to my work and I would just ride a bike.Neglect_ I have not heard of the 3.916 but the 4.08 I have. And the JWT cams I heard about and was thinking of the upgrade as well, but it seems like a lot of people are wondering if the $$ vs. ++ is worth it.
400+: HD concentric slave cylinder or CSC delete, new clutch/flywheel; larger injectors; oil cooler
500+: Stage 1 CJ Motorsports fuel system upgrade (includes return conversion)
You are fine with the stock manual transmission, it holds gobs of power.
If you are serious, talk to Sasha at Boosted Performance and he will get you a ballpark of what it would cost for the parts as well as nominal hours to install. You will also want to get rid of your catalytic converters if you are able to. Any FI will chew through your cats or hi flow cats after a while.
TT_ My XXXHP goal would be what ever the car/build could handle safely, if that is 500WHP then I want everything else built to support +600whp so I can drive like I stole it and not worry about breaking it AS much.
Neglect_ I have not heard of the 3.916 but the 4.08 I have. And the JWT cams I heard about and was thinking of the upgrade as well, but it seems like a lot of people are wondering if the $$ vs. ++ is worth it.
Neglect_ I have not heard of the 3.916 but the 4.08 I have. And the JWT cams I heard about and was thinking of the upgrade as well, but it seems like a lot of people are wondering if the $$ vs. ++ is worth it.
IMO, you should NOT change to shorter 3.916 or 4.08 gears if you plan on boosting. Having longer gears may make an NA car accelerate slower, but on a boosted vehicle it is more ideal to have longer gears to stay in boost/gear longer which outshadows the power loss allowing for more power as well as higher top MPH speed.
Not sure why your tuner stopped at 6100. ...
400+: HD concentric slave cylinder or CSC delete, new clutch/flywheel; larger injectors; oil cooler
500+: Stage 1 CJ Motorsports fuel system upgrade (includes return conversion)
You are fine with the stock manual transmission, it holds gobs of power.
If you are serious, talk to Sasha at Boosted Performance and he will get you a ballpark of what it would cost for the parts as well as nominal hours to install. You will also want to get rid of your catalytic converters if you are able to. Any FI will chew through your cats or hi flow cats after a while.
400+: HD concentric slave cylinder or CSC delete, new clutch/flywheel; larger injectors; oil cooler
500+: Stage 1 CJ Motorsports fuel system upgrade (includes return conversion)
You are fine with the stock manual transmission, it holds gobs of power.
If you are serious, talk to Sasha at Boosted Performance and he will get you a ballpark of what it would cost for the parts as well as nominal hours to install. You will also want to get rid of your catalytic converters if you are able to. Any FI will chew through your cats or hi flow cats after a while.
The list goes beyond that but I would add GT-R spark plugs, differential bushings, motor/transmission mounts, and boost/control/afr gauges to it as well.
Last edited by ttv36; Jul 14, 2016 at 11:47 AM.
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From: Calgary, Alberta
I'm just guessing that it would make 50WTQ since stage 1 cams made 30WTQ and thats N/A with other bolt ons...
Exploring the route of non boost, and how much power we can get out of our VQ's NA. From what i've gathered a 300WHP Tuned G with 3.916 final drive is approximately 4.5 sec 0-60mph
Exploring the route of non boost, and how much power we can get out of our VQ's NA. From what i've gathered a 300WHP Tuned G with 3.916 final drive is approximately 4.5 sec 0-60mph
Every car is different and every tuner has different views on what a car can "handle safely". As a general rule of thumb you should not be looking at HP but TQ - keeping the TQ under 500 is usually considered the "safe" side, but the age/mileage on the motor will play a role in how long it will last at high TQ.
IMO, you should NOT change to shorter 3.916 or 4.08 gears if you plan on boosting. Having longer gears may make an NA car accelerate slower, but on a boosted vehicle it is more ideal to have longer gears to stay in boost/gear longer which outshadows the power loss allowing for more power as well as higher top MPH speed.
Agree with everything. Definitely the BP kit is one of the best options for a 6MT to max out a stock block.
The list goes beyond that but I would add GT-R spark plugs, differential bushings, motor/transmission mounts, and boost/control/afr gauges to it as well.
IMO, you should NOT change to shorter 3.916 or 4.08 gears if you plan on boosting. Having longer gears may make an NA car accelerate slower, but on a boosted vehicle it is more ideal to have longer gears to stay in boost/gear longer which outshadows the power loss allowing for more power as well as higher top MPH speed.
Agree with everything. Definitely the BP kit is one of the best options for a 6MT to max out a stock block.
The list goes beyond that but I would add GT-R spark plugs, differential bushings, motor/transmission mounts, and boost/control/afr gauges to it as well.
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From: GA
Depending on Dyno somewhere from 330-370 WHP. See the link here: N/A HP BRAG thread - Nissan 370Z Forum
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Ok so I need more research on the BP turbo set up. I was able to look at pics but haven't been able to do any reading on it yet. But my only concern right now based off of pics alone is the lower piping. It sits under the transmission, which there is not a lot of of room there to begin with. Granted I am not lowered but the roads I live at are not the best for that also speed bumps? I would look like a stance guy dodging those. If that won't be an issue my next question would be that the pics are leading me to believe it's a single exhaust now? Or at least a custom dual exhaust is needed from how the tubes are lining up.
My Zipcode is voided from DEQ so I was planning on doing something with the cats anyways till I get stationed somewhere else.
My Zipcode is voided from DEQ so I was planning on doing something with the cats anyways till I get stationed somewhere else.
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I got to read a G37 BP build off the370z.com under jwick build thread, got to page 15 or so. His pictures show different angles which makes me think I won't hit anything going over stuff, so that's good news. Does look like a custom exhaust for a dual, as I'm trying to remember how far the stock duals travel up from the rear. Anyways, still reading but I'm not liking the fact that the crash bar is removed....at least up to where I left off.
Very good read so far.
Very good read so far.
I got to read a G37 BP build off the370z.com under jwick build thread, got to page 15 or so. His pictures show different angles which makes me think I won't hit anything going over stuff, so that's good news. Does look like a custom exhaust for a dual, as I'm trying to remember how far the stock duals travel up from the rear. Anyways, still reading but I'm not liking the fact that the crash bar is removed....at least up to where I left off.
Very good read so far.
Very good read so far.
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Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 199
Likes: 40
From: GA
I got to read a G37 BP build off the370z.com under jwick build thread, got to page 15 or so. His pictures show different angles which makes me think I won't hit anything going over stuff, so that's good news. Does look like a custom exhaust for a dual, as I'm trying to remember how far the stock duals travel up from the rear. Anyways, still reading but I'm not liking the fact that the crash bar is removed....at least up to where I left off.
Very good read so far.
Very good read so far.
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Just finished reading the build and damn, really going to contemplate on going BP. But now which route to build, DIY(friend boosted his G35 and did all his work) to save money, see if there is a shop near me, or send it to Sasha?
Thanks for the information guys and especially Wasted for letting me know about BP!
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that is nice to know, I thought that was were all the sensors were kept though?
Just finished reading the build and damn, really going to contemplate on going BP. But now which route to build, DIY(friend boosted his G35 and did all his work) to save money, see if there is a shop near me, or send it to Sasha?
Thanks for the information guys and especially Wasted for letting me know about BP!
Just finished reading the build and damn, really going to contemplate on going BP. But now which route to build, DIY(friend boosted his G35 and did all his work) to save money, see if there is a shop near me, or send it to Sasha?
Thanks for the information guys and especially Wasted for letting me know about BP!
that is nice to know, I thought that was were all the sensors were kept though?
Just finished reading the build and damn, really going to contemplate on going BP. But now which route to build, DIY(friend boosted his G35 and did all his work) to save money, see if there is a shop near me, or send it to Sasha?
Thanks for the information guys and especially Wasted for letting me know about BP!
Just finished reading the build and damn, really going to contemplate on going BP. But now which route to build, DIY(friend boosted his G35 and did all his work) to save money, see if there is a shop near me, or send it to Sasha?
Thanks for the information guys and especially Wasted for letting me know about BP!
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Back to the topic of the orignal post though. I am starting to talk with shops around the area and one mentioned that as far as going Super-Charged 450-475whp is starting to be out of the range of the blower?
Do you guys think they are refering to a stock block OR just the blower is engineered to max out there and it doesn't matter what you do. I'm waiting on a reply from them but I was asking about upping displacement, swapping cams, just any thing that could achieve more power from that setup.
I just like the idea of a warranty setup and I would have my ducks in row so when the warranty dropped then my row of ducks would be added. I could still claim that I'm running Stillen but could compete with the low-ave boost Turbo setup?
Do you guys think they are refering to a stock block OR just the blower is engineered to max out there and it doesn't matter what you do. I'm waiting on a reply from them but I was asking about upping displacement, swapping cams, just any thing that could achieve more power from that setup.
I just like the idea of a warranty setup and I would have my ducks in row so when the warranty dropped then my row of ducks would be added. I could still claim that I'm running Stillen but could compete with the low-ave boost Turbo setup?
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From: GA
Back to the topic of the orignal post though. I am starting to talk with shops around the area and one mentioned that as far as going Super-Charged 450-475whp is starting to be out of the range of the blower?
Do you guys think they are refering to a stock block OR just the blower is engineered to max out there and it doesn't matter what you do. I'm waiting on a reply from them but I was asking about upping displacement, swapping cams, just any thing that could achieve more power from that setup.
I just like the idea of a warranty setup and I would have my ducks in row so when the warranty dropped then my row of ducks would be added. I could still claim that I'm running Stillen but could compete with the low-ave boost Turbo setup?
Do you guys think they are refering to a stock block OR just the blower is engineered to max out there and it doesn't matter what you do. I'm waiting on a reply from them but I was asking about upping displacement, swapping cams, just any thing that could achieve more power from that setup.
I just like the idea of a warranty setup and I would have my ducks in row so when the warranty dropped then my row of ducks would be added. I could still claim that I'm running Stillen but could compete with the low-ave boost Turbo setup?
EDIT: Even if you made 425 WHP and went up against a 425 WHP turbo, the turbo will still win. The turbo will always make more torque than a supercharged setup at the same horsepower. And it will make it earlier.
Just a random tirade: the thread title is not cohesive with the topic at hand - a supercharged VQ is so far inside the box that it could never be outside the box. Well, not unless it is paired with a couple of turbos but I doubt there would be any room in the bay so maybe it could be put "outside the box" / engine bay?
Last edited by ttv36; Jul 18, 2016 at 05:03 PM.
