New G37 Issues, P0524
#1
New G37 Issues, P0524
Hello,
I just bought my first g37s this weekend on Saturday with 40,000 miles. On my way home the car went into limp mode. I pulled over and read the code with my blue tooth obd2 scanner and I got the code p0524 (oil pressure to low). I took a screen shot of the error and reset the ecu. I drove the car home and the dealership came and picked it up next day and gave me a loaner. I researched the issue and its seems like it may be the Timing Chain Cover Gasket Rear may be leaking. The dealer ship just called me saying they drove the car for 70-100 miles and are unable to replicate the issue and the car runs fine. They say they have a machine that can find deleted codes and they never saw the p0524 code in the history. Any suggestions on what to do? I have extended warranty on the car for another 36k miles/36months. Thanks in advanced for your help.
I just bought my first g37s this weekend on Saturday with 40,000 miles. On my way home the car went into limp mode. I pulled over and read the code with my blue tooth obd2 scanner and I got the code p0524 (oil pressure to low). I took a screen shot of the error and reset the ecu. I drove the car home and the dealership came and picked it up next day and gave me a loaner. I researched the issue and its seems like it may be the Timing Chain Cover Gasket Rear may be leaking. The dealer ship just called me saying they drove the car for 70-100 miles and are unable to replicate the issue and the car runs fine. They say they have a machine that can find deleted codes and they never saw the p0524 code in the history. Any suggestions on what to do? I have extended warranty on the car for another 36k miles/36months. Thanks in advanced for your help.
#3
Registered User
iTrader: (3)
Lol they have software that can read cleared codes and its not reading a cleared code? Sounds fishy to me.. Instead of a screen shot, you should've taken a picture of the dash. Now they're going to decline any help until it pops up and some go tens of thousands of miles before it happens. Hopefully your still under warranty when it does. DO NOT clear the code again or you're just screwing yourself.
Welcome to the forum
Welcome to the forum
#4
Thanks for your input guys! Of course the dealer was not able to replicate the code. I told them I have a screen shot of the dash with the check engine light but they said that was not enough. I learned my lesson. I am going to pick up the car today. I guess I will just have to drive it until the code comes back up and it goes into limp mode, then call roadside assistance to pick it up. I have warranty for another 36k miles so I should be ok. Not the best start to a new car lol
#5
Lexus Defector
iTrader: (60)
You can actually drive it in limp mode, just not very fast. The engine will rev up to about 3000 RPM which is about 58-60 MPH in 6th gear on a 6 MT.
#6
That is exactly what you will have to do. As you just learned, never clear a code and tell the tech about it; you always have to take them the car (or have it towed) while the problem condition exists. It'll come back withing several hundred miles most likely. Trust me...
You can actually drive it in limp mode, just not very fast. The engine will rev up to about 3000 RPM which is about 58-60 MPH in 6th gear on a 6 MT.
You can actually drive it in limp mode, just not very fast. The engine will rev up to about 3000 RPM which is about 58-60 MPH in 6th gear on a 6 MT.
#7
Lexus Defector
iTrader: (60)
Just remember to accelerate slowly and only up to just below 3000 RPM or you will slam off of the limp mode rev limiter. It's fairly easy if you drive a manual. I suppose it should also be easy in an automatic using paddle manual shifting mode. It limits your acceleration and your top speed. but otherwise drives pretty normally.
When it happens, you can read the code(s) yourself, but do NOT clear them or reset them. When you take it in, let them know that you know what's going on by telling them what code it is displaying and what it means. Mention that you are aware of the problem of the rear timing cover seals and strongly suspect that may be the issue. Ask them if they are going to perform an oil pressure test and to please let you know the pressure at idle and under load.
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#8
Registered User
iTrader: (9)
i had code P0524 causing low-oil pressure limp mode which prompted the rear timing cover warranty repair. thank god i caught it under warranty as it is a pricey repair from a labour standpoint. i saw the car mid-repair and it is not pretty. they tear the front end apart to get at the timing cover.
#9
UPDATE - I picked up the car from the dealer yesterday and they did a oil pressure test. They showed my that at idle the car oil pressure was 10psi and at 3k rpm it was around 40psi. So I took the car home and of course the car went limp mode on me again on my way to class. I towed it back to the dealer with the check engine light on. Hoping to hear back today on what they will do. Is it possible because I drive a little "harder" that the dealer, that the gasket leaks at higher rpms? The highest I went when I picked up the car was 4.5k rpms. I feel like if they just replace the gasket, I wont have any more issues lol.
#10
Registered User
iTrader: (3)
UPDATE - I picked up the car from the dealer yesterday and they did a oil pressure test. They showed my that at idle the car oil pressure was 10psi and at 3k rpm it was around 40psi. So I took the car home and of course the car went limp mode on me again on my way to class. I towed it back to the dealer with the check engine light on. Hoping to hear back today on what they will do. Is it possible because I drive a little "harder" that the dealer, that the gasket leaks at higher rpms? The highest I went when I picked up the car was 4.5k rpms. I feel like if they just replace the gasket, I wont have any more issues lol.
#11
Yea, summer classes suck, but you gotta to what you gotta do. I really dont wanna return the car so I hope the fix it this week so I can get started with my mods hehe. I will keep you all updated. Thanks again
#13
UPDATE - I picked up the car from the dealer yesterday and they did a oil pressure test. They showed my that at idle the car oil pressure was 10psi and at 3k rpm it was around 40psi. So I took the car home and of course the car went limp mode on me again on my way to class. I towed it back to the dealer with the check engine light on. Hoping to hear back today on what they will do. Is it possible because I drive a little "harder" that the dealer, that the gasket leaks at higher rpms? The highest I went when I picked up the car was 4.5k rpms. I feel like if they just replace the gasket, I wont have any more issues lol.
I know we are quick in this forum to jump to the timing gasket failure, so before you completely jump to it at least make sure that your oil level is fine and that there are no visible leaks and/or burning oil. If your level is fine and you have no leaks/burning oil, then the gasket is a very likely culprit assuming you fall in the model year range it fails on.
EDIT: These readings must be taken when the engine is warmed up, which I am assuming was done. I know it is extreme, but I hope they give you a new engine. Even if they replace the gasket there is no guarantee that damage already hasn't been done unless they inspect parts of the engine like the journals and cylinder walls (which they won't do).
Last edited by Waste86; 06-02-2016 at 01:18 PM.
#14
#15
Hopefully you have another dealer near you as yours is trying to give you the runaround. Your oil pressure tests do not pass Infiniti's oil pressure recommendations per the factory service manual (FSM). Oil pressure at idle must be AT LEAST 14 psi, and AT LEAST 43 psi at 2k rpm. You do not even hit the minimum at 2k at 3k rpm. Download the manual in this section and look under Engine Lubrication on page 15 (LU-15) and print and show them. It is unacceptable that they let you drive home while it failed an oil pressure test.
I know we are quick in this forum to jump to the timing gasket failure, so before you completely jump to it at least make sure that your oil level is fine and that there are no visible leaks and/or burning oil. If your level is fine and you have no leaks/burning oil, then the gasket is a very likely culprit assuming you fall in the model year range it fails on.
EDIT: These readings must be taken when the engine is warmed up, which I am assuming was done. I know it is extreme, but I hope they give you a new engine. Even if they replace the gasket there is no guarantee that damage already hasn't been done unless they inspect parts of the engine like the journals and cylinder walls (which they won't do).
I know we are quick in this forum to jump to the timing gasket failure, so before you completely jump to it at least make sure that your oil level is fine and that there are no visible leaks and/or burning oil. If your level is fine and you have no leaks/burning oil, then the gasket is a very likely culprit assuming you fall in the model year range it fails on.
EDIT: These readings must be taken when the engine is warmed up, which I am assuming was done. I know it is extreme, but I hope they give you a new engine. Even if they replace the gasket there is no guarantee that damage already hasn't been done unless they inspect parts of the engine like the journals and cylinder walls (which they won't do).