Mpg
^^^ This, I drive a 2010 6 Spd, mostly city and I don't putt around... According to the car I average 19.6mpg... I drive probably around 40-50 miles most days... To and from work and to and from class.
Huh! $.20?
Do you live on an oil well?
Since purchase I've used 2035 gallons of regular 87 octane thru September 2014. At a conservative $.30/gallon savings that comes to $611.00 savings.
On my previous 06 G35 that was traded in at 171796 miles I used 7170 gallons of 87 octane (except for a 1 month test of 91 and 93 octane) at a conservative $.30/gal savings comes to $2151.00 for a total savings of $2762.00.
I'd rather have the savings in my pocket.
The only reason premium is recommended so as to meet Infiniti truth in advertising.
Does it really matter if the engine has 340 hp or 320 or whatever?
Not to me!
It gets me to work and back and to an occasional trip to Florida and back to New Jersey
Telcoman
Do you live on an oil well?
Since purchase I've used 2035 gallons of regular 87 octane thru September 2014. At a conservative $.30/gallon savings that comes to $611.00 savings.
On my previous 06 G35 that was traded in at 171796 miles I used 7170 gallons of 87 octane (except for a 1 month test of 91 and 93 octane) at a conservative $.30/gal savings comes to $2151.00 for a total savings of $2762.00.
I'd rather have the savings in my pocket.
The only reason premium is recommended so as to meet Infiniti truth in advertising.
Does it really matter if the engine has 340 hp or 320 or whatever?
Not to me!
It gets me to work and back and to an occasional trip to Florida and back to New Jersey
Telcoman
In your case it’s your call of course. But it seems to me that you would be happier driving a more fuel efficient vehicle that’s designed to take regular, rather than a car that’s designed for premium and trying to downgrade it to your preferences. It’s like paying $1800 extra for a factory navigation package and using a $200 hand-held Garmin instead. I just don't see it.
Not really!
I found the Infiniti to meet my needs.
V6, very comfortable for driving long trips, 6 speed manual, navigation, backup camera, bluetooth, homelink, etc
BTW I still carry my $79 Garmin that the wife can program while I'm driving.The service people at my dealer also confirmed no problem using regular and using premium is a waste of money. All brand new vehicles are delivered with a full tank of regular.
I'm an old farht happy camper
Telcoman
I found the Infiniti to meet my needs.
V6, very comfortable for driving long trips, 6 speed manual, navigation, backup camera, bluetooth, homelink, etc
BTW I still carry my $79 Garmin that the wife can program while I'm driving.The service people at my dealer also confirmed no problem using regular and using premium is a waste of money. All brand new vehicles are delivered with a full tank of regular.
I'm an old farht happy camper
Telcoman
I love how this thread had absolutely nothing to do with MPG but just the mention of the word makes the same people espousing their fatuous ideas to come and post about it anyway.
To that end, if you really want to increase MPG use non-ethanol.
To that end, if you really want to increase MPG use non-ethanol.
From N.Burnaby to Richmond eh? that's basically my trip backwards.
My best was 13 but I easily go up to 14+ l/100km. Maybe we can trade jobs and save the commute, lol.
My best was 13 but I easily go up to 14+ l/100km. Maybe we can trade jobs and save the commute, lol.
^ yup. lived in Kits for years but now commute from North Burnaby to Richmond, so i'm sure you can imagine my less-than-ideal route. lots of stop-n-go and lights for sure. being a 6MT may allow me to better modulate my gear selection and coasting (where injectors stop pumping fuel) than those folks with a slushbox 7AT.
like i said, mileage is affected largely by the commute conditions - as well as driving habits of course. if you spend a ton of time idling in traffic or at lights, or do a lot of really short trips, you will see poor fuel economy. buy a hybrid or a car with auto shut-off if that is the case. or take transit or alternate forms of transport. i'm sure you are aware how much cash Mayor "moonbeam" Robertson has dumped into bike lanes! don't get me started...
like i said, mileage is affected largely by the commute conditions - as well as driving habits of course. if you spend a ton of time idling in traffic or at lights, or do a lot of really short trips, you will see poor fuel economy. buy a hybrid or a car with auto shut-off if that is the case. or take transit or alternate forms of transport. i'm sure you are aware how much cash Mayor "moonbeam" Robertson has dumped into bike lanes! don't get me started...
Well, where I buy gas it’s twenty cents difference. But in the case where it’s thirty cents the annual extra cost would be $225. But IMO That’s still a worthwhile expenditure toward better performance and longer engine life.
In your case it’s your call of course. But it seems to me that you would be happier driving a more fuel efficient vehicle that’s designed to take regular, rather than a car that’s designed for premium and trying to downgrade it to your preferences. It’s like paying $1800 extra for a factory navigation package and using a $200 hand-held Garmin instead. I just don't see it.
In your case it’s your call of course. But it seems to me that you would be happier driving a more fuel efficient vehicle that’s designed to take regular, rather than a car that’s designed for premium and trying to downgrade it to your preferences. It’s like paying $1800 extra for a factory navigation package and using a $200 hand-held Garmin instead. I just don't see it.

I go with the guys who have hundreds of years of combined schooling, training and experience that designed the G. They say I should use premium in this car, who am I to argue.
No! Just informing others of my experience using a cheaper grade of gasoline over hundreds of thousands of miles and keeping very detailed MPG records.
Well its not!
It might be ok if you lease and the next owner is stuck with a poorly maintained vehicle?
The same byproducts (moisture, carbon, acid, etc.) of an internal combustion engine occupy the crankcase over time whether it is SAE 30 oil at $3.00/qt or some synthetic at $10/qt
Telcoman
Telcoman,
I’m not too sure where you’re going with this. If one follows the maintenance schedule recommended by Infiniti, including oil changes, the owner is given a choice, from 3750 miles as you said but up to 7,500 miles (the one I follow) between changes. The maintenance guide (whom you may say are the “same guys”) does not push either schedule, nor do they recommend synthetic oils other than saying the oil used must meet API standards.
To me this seems to be a reasonable approach. And this recommended method includes, of course, the use of premium fuel. You may think that Infiniti is trying to play some sort of truth in advertising game, but I believe they’re trying to keep your engine viable for a very long time while giving you the performance expected from an Infiniti.
I’m not too sure where you’re going with this. If one follows the maintenance schedule recommended by Infiniti, including oil changes, the owner is given a choice, from 3750 miles as you said but up to 7,500 miles (the one I follow) between changes. The maintenance guide (whom you may say are the “same guys”) does not push either schedule, nor do they recommend synthetic oils other than saying the oil used must meet API standards.
To me this seems to be a reasonable approach. And this recommended method includes, of course, the use of premium fuel. You may think that Infiniti is trying to play some sort of truth in advertising game, but I believe they’re trying to keep your engine viable for a very long time while giving you the performance expected from an Infiniti.
I'm just making a point that the use of regular 87 octane is fine and its use will not cause any detrimental effects to an Infiniti engine.
It made no difference on any vehicle I've ever owned including my previous 92 Lexus, 88 Mazda 929, 74 Mazda RX4 Rotary engine and others. All driven over 100k miles.
Well I believe that they are.
I put over 171k miles on my 06 G35 and it ran like new the day I traded it in.
I also never used any expensive synthetic oil. Just SAE 10w30 whatever was on sale.
I did 48 of its 53 oil changes on my 06 so I know what the oil looks and feels like as it drains from the crankcase after 3750 miles.
I would never go 7500 miles without changing oil. In fact I don't think I've ever gone over 4k miles between oil changes.
For those looking to save a little money there is no need to pay an extra $30- $.40 cents per gallon for fuel nor is it necessary to spend extra money on synthetic oil
For those that race their vehicle that's a different issue.
Telcoman
It made no difference on any vehicle I've ever owned including my previous 92 Lexus, 88 Mazda 929, 74 Mazda RX4 Rotary engine and others. All driven over 100k miles.
I put over 171k miles on my 06 G35 and it ran like new the day I traded it in.
I also never used any expensive synthetic oil. Just SAE 10w30 whatever was on sale.
I did 48 of its 53 oil changes on my 06 so I know what the oil looks and feels like as it drains from the crankcase after 3750 miles.
I would never go 7500 miles without changing oil. In fact I don't think I've ever gone over 4k miles between oil changes.
For those looking to save a little money there is no need to pay an extra $30- $.40 cents per gallon for fuel nor is it necessary to spend extra money on synthetic oil
For those that race their vehicle that's a different issue.
Telcoman
I'm confused
I've seen sludge build up in engines back in the day when I purchased used vehicles. My purchased used 55 Chevy's valve cover was filled with sludge.
SAE 5w-30 oil is cheap when purchased on sale.(Photo below is a few years old but oil is still cheap)

The use of regular 87 octane has never given me a problem and when I did a one month test using 91 and 93 octane on my 06 G35 after reading many posts on this subject, I found my MPG to drop and be worse than when using regular 87 octane.
I use the cheapest 87 octane I can find and My G37S runs perfect.

The owners manual says a lot of things.
One doesn't have to adhere to all of them. I never drain transmission or differential fluid, although many do
Coolant and plugs over 100k miles
I never do 15k, 30k, 45k, etc. recommended services either.
They are just money makers for dealers that induce customers that know little about vehicles.
I Just do oil & oil filter, and cabin filter changes and have had no problems getting hundreds of thousands of trouble free miles on many vehicles.
I should probably mention I've been driving many vehicles over 50 years.
Yes I'm an old farht that loves driving stick shifts and no one on any of these forums is going to induce me to purchase premium gasoline when regular performs just fine.
Telcoman
I also bought my first car in 1960.
A POS 58 Ford which was my first and last Ford

My 55 3 speed stick on the column Chevy came after my 1940 stick shift Pontiac. I wish I could locate a picture of it with its running boards and an AM 6volt radio that had a vibrator. The vibrator in those days chopped the 6 volts to AC for the plate voltage for the tubes in the radio. Vibrators have a different function today.
Used regular leaded in those days.

Telcoman
A POS 58 Ford which was my first and last Ford

My 55 3 speed stick on the column Chevy came after my 1940 stick shift Pontiac. I wish I could locate a picture of it with its running boards and an AM 6volt radio that had a vibrator. The vibrator in those days chopped the 6 volts to AC for the plate voltage for the tubes in the radio. Vibrators have a different function today.

Used regular leaded in those days.

Telcoman
Last edited by telcoman; Oct 25, 2014 at 07:36 PM.
I'm just making a point that the use of regular 87 octane is fine and its use will not cause any detrimental effects to an Infiniti engine.
It made no difference on any vehicle I've ever owned including my previous 92 Lexus, 88 Mazda 929, 74 Mazda RX4 Rotary engine and others. All driven over 100k miles.
...
To say it is fine is certainly a biased interpretation. You apparently assume that relying upon your car's ECU to retard engine timing and protect itself from damage is a safe bet, and maybe it is if you never demand much power out of your engine. The manufacturer sure didn't think so though, and neither do a lot of people that most likely also appreciate utilizing ALL available hp, not just that which is producible with low octane fuel and low power demands. Would you also buy a heavy duty pickup truck just to haul a load of groceries now and then? If you are so money wise and value conscious as you suggest, then why did you pay for something you aren't using.

Just because you have done it successfully, doesn't make it "fine".
.02



... I drive slightly aggressive and get about 19...