ark exhaust installation
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OT - All these Nugenators in this forum!
sorry back on topic. DIY is cheapest. It's just a matter of getting the car up on jacks stands, unbolting everything and installing the new stuff. I would have to say the hardest part is getting the OE muffler off the rubber hangers.
I was going to say getting the tips lined up but you have an ARK exhaust, they won't line up anyway
Also, if your nuts/bolts are rusty, make sure you use some PB Blaster and a torch to heat up the bolts. Otherwise they shear right off. Ask me how i know.
If you have a newer model year, you should be ok without.
Also, the OE pieces can be a bit bulky/heavy so it would be helpful to get a 2nd person to help.
sorry back on topic. DIY is cheapest. It's just a matter of getting the car up on jacks stands, unbolting everything and installing the new stuff. I would have to say the hardest part is getting the OE muffler off the rubber hangers.
I was going to say getting the tips lined up but you have an ARK exhaust, they won't line up anyway

Also, if your nuts/bolts are rusty, make sure you use some PB Blaster and a torch to heat up the bolts. Otherwise they shear right off. Ask me how i know.
If you have a newer model year, you should be ok without.
Also, the OE pieces can be a bit bulky/heavy so it would be helpful to get a 2nd person to help.
OT - All these Nugenators in this forum! sorry back on topic. DIY is cheapest. It's just a matter of getting the car up on jacks stands, unbolting everything and installing the new stuff. I would have to say the hardest part is getting the OE muffler off the rubber hangers. I was going to say getting the tips lined up but you have an ARK exhaust, they won't line up anyway
Also, if your nuts/bolts are rusty, make sure you use some PB Blaster and a torch to heat up the bolts. Otherwise they shear right off. Ask me how i know. If you have a newer model year, you should be ok without. Also, the OE pieces can be a bit bulky/heavy so it would be helpful to get a 2nd person to help.
Also, if your nuts/bolts are rusty, make sure you use some PB Blaster and a torch to heat up the bolts. Otherwise they shear right off. Ask me how i know. If you have a newer model year, you should be ok without. Also, the OE pieces can be a bit bulky/heavy so it would be helpful to get a 2nd person to help.Anyways, the catback isn't the issues, there are just a handful of bolts to undo, and they're all pretty easy to get to. It helps to spray some rust penetrator the day before and give it some time to work. No one has mentioned yet, but when uninstalling a catback, you should unbolt the y pipe from the cats first and work your way to the rear of the car, unbolting and removing as you go. The idea is to put as little stress on the cats as possible.
You can do it!
I have noticed a lot of Nguyen-ers, on here.....
Anyways, the catback isn't the issues, there are just a handful of bolts to undo, and they're all pretty easy to get to. It helps to spray some rust penetrator the day before and give it some time to work. No one has mentioned yet, but when uninstalling a catback, you should unbolt the y pipe from the cats first and work your way to the rear of the car, unbolting and removing as you go. The idea is to put as little stress on the cats as possible.
You can do it!
Anyways, the catback isn't the issues, there are just a handful of bolts to undo, and they're all pretty easy to get to. It helps to spray some rust penetrator the day before and give it some time to work. No one has mentioned yet, but when uninstalling a catback, you should unbolt the y pipe from the cats first and work your way to the rear of the car, unbolting and removing as you go. The idea is to put as little stress on the cats as possible.
You can do it!
Im picky about that also. I heard they fix this issue already, hopefully everything turn out right lol
I'm pretty sure it's still the same...I just don't want you to be disappointed. It sounds nice though but if you're lowered or plan on lowering, you'll probably scratch the canisters.


