Hi guys, I'm fairly new to the forum I haven't posted much but a little background on my car. I own a '11 G37s 6MT with an R2C intake and Tanabe exhaust.

As most know, after an intake install the low end power is almost non-existent and I have been trying to perfect the G's launch from a dead stop since I've installed the intakes. I do not want to simply floor the car but looking more towards a smooth blend of acceleration and minimal effort.

Before the mods, I found that launching the car was fairly straight-forward, going to about 2K RPM and dumping the clutch. Small chirm and I'm off.

Now however, when I attempt that. The car just buckles for like a LONG second at that RPM and tries to catch up and when it does, it comes back strong, too strong that it just spins the tires and VDC steps in and interrupts the party. I'm barely accerelating at this point. After about the first 1.5-2secs of this "awkwardness" the car is off. I've tried VDC off and that did not help, actually felt slower.

This is not a high priority for me, and I am not a red-light racer. I'm just stirring topic and looking to get some opinions (mods or not) on some tips etc, that people might use to have a smooth, yet strong launch.

 

Adding an intake definitely smoothes out the power curve and the car definitely seems to lose that "punch".

As far as remedies to what you are asking. Idk. Stop dumping the clutch (not trying to be a smarta$$...I don't have a MT with this car)? I know for the MT they make a 4:08 final drive mod for the differential ( Z-1 Performance Automotive Services Inc. - 4.08 Final Drive for 370Z/G37 ), but idk if that would solve the "problem". I guess you could always put the OEM intake back on.

Other than that, I got nothing as I am still learning myself.

Good luck!

 

The low end torque is really that effected by the R2C? Surprises me how popular of a mod the intakes are if that's the case. If anything I feel this car really needs more low end grunt.

 

Most people don't get this and/or do intakes for the sound. Unless you do intakes, exhaust etc and then tune you are not going to get the gains you would think on these cars. Even then you are going to spend a lot for minimal gains.

 

This surprises me, as I felt that I gained a little bit of torque from changing to the R2C. At first glance I thought it could be your exhaust, but don't think an axel-back would cause you to lose all that torque.

 

i have a takeda intake on my car, and i found taking VDC off and slipping off the clutch at around 2,800 and 3k rpms was prime for a great launch. minimal to no wheel spin and i shot out like a bat outta hell. anything more than that i was just lighting the tires up

 

Thank you for admitting this. I think most people don't want to admit this after they spent money on an intake. The OEM intake is very well designed. It's honest feedback like yours that makes me never want to spend money on an aftermarket intake.

 

i was indeed trying to be honest, but certainly didn't want to discourage anyone from modding their cars. what i didn't say in my post was how much better (IMHO) the car sounds. but to tell you the truth, my K&N typhoons came with a dyno sheet and you can see right on it how the power curve goes up a lot less steep.

what it comes down to as far as modding anyone's car, is this......to each their own. if it's what they like, then so be it. honestly...who am i to tell someone what mods to put and not put into their rides?

i can certainly understand the OP's question, but i'm gonna keep going with my mods and see where i end up.

 

I don't regret buying the R2C intake at all (or modding for that matter). The Intake has given the car a strong mid-range and sounds awesome to boot with the Tanabe CBE. Only complaint would be the 1-2.5K range, it feels completely flat, after that everything lights up like a "bat outta hell" as described earlier lol.

I haven't tried 2.8-3K RPM launch as suggested above, as I didn't feel comfortable engaging the clutch at those RPMs, maybe give it a go tonight.

 

Do NOT drop the clutch repeatedly. That is horrible for your rear end. That's one of the reasons why Nissan used to void warranties on launched GTR's, before they released the updated launch control software.

A proper launch involves slipping the clutch correctly to distribute the stress between the clutch and the CV shafts.

Dropping the clutch kills your rear end after it's done repeatedly (like what it seems you've been doing) and riding the clutch for too long obviously wears down on the clutch and bearings. Like what was said before, for a good launch, you can rev up to about 3k, and modulate the release of the clutch to distribute the stress.

 

The Stock intake is fine !! dont waste money

 

I would never just completely drop the clutch at those RPMs, when I say engage I meant slowing slipping it in.

The clutch on my car is perfectly fine, I've only ever dropped it completely like 2-3 times, and never over 2k.

Thanks for everyones input.

 

That was on a car with over 200HP more, and it was the transmission a 4wd trasmission, overheating from using launch control with VDC off.

 

^ Fine sure, but aftermarket is a big upgrade. Ran a stock G37 when I only had Stillen Gen 3's and there was a considerable difference. Obviously other factors could play in here, but there was definitely an advantage with the intakes.

On the launch. Like others have said, I shoot for 3k with the right amount of clutch slippage and VDC OFF.