My clutch is still good @ 44k.

 

I went through the same thing - my only gripe was the clutch. Until, I saw the clutch mods in the DIY section. Both worked great and I highly recommend them. Look em' up, did both at the same time and it literally took less than an hour. (remove the spring and spin the adjusting rod to change the amount of travel)

Left heel stays put now when I shift, engagement point is comfortable and predictable and I find it takes considerably less time.

The only downside was that my wife actually enjoyed driving it afterwards.

 

Just did the spring assist removal (clutch fix #2 in the DIY section). Dear God did that make a world of difference. Starts are so much easier, shifting is 100% smooth. A few things:

1) Removing the pin proved difficult. I did a lot of pulling twisting and prying down there, which concerns me a little. A little play at the top of the throw is present as has been reported by almost everyone who's done it. However, I now have a little lateral play in the pedal at the top also. Not noticeable while driving, but I can feel it with my hand. Could I have loosened something important up while prying on the bottom pin?

2) The bottom was such a pain in the *** I'm not going to remove the top unless you guys tell me it's important for some reason. From what I can tell, what's left doesn't rattle or get in the way.

3) I'd be surprised if that damn spring isn't at least partially to blame with regard to some of the clutch life issues some are experiencing. I'm far from mechanically inclined, but smooth and effortless shifts and starts seem pretty important for clutch life, and the absence of the spring greatly increases these things.

I'd encourage everyone to try it out. And believe me, if I can do it anyone can.

 

Sorry to bump an old thread, but might be useful to some of the new 6mt owners.

I too am used to getting high miles from an OE clutch.

I think #3 above hits the nail on the head. If you can't feel the start of the friction zone, then you can't synchronize throttle application with clutch pedal release.

 

i have my 78k miles on my 08 and clutch seems fine, but i do have trouble reversing uphills.

 

I'm on 31,XXX miles and I just drove my brothers 2011 G37S. I was reminded of how jerky our 6MT's are. My 2008's MT seems more loose and forgiving now. I also have difficulty reversing uphills. I have to ride the clutch a little bit.

 

I replaced the spring with a weaker one (go check out the370z forums for more information), which basically does the same thing except takes care of the slack/looseness of the pedal by removing the spring. Huge difference.

 

^^Or you can join our own group buy

https://www.myg37.com/forums/private...g-for-6mt.html

After a 300 mile road test today with a combination of roads, it baffles the mind how infiniti could have considered the stock pedal setup 'sporty'. Albeit the pedal takes noticeably more effort, that's a good thing with the stock clutch setup. I can see the need for one if you're running some stage 3 high performance clutch with 3x the stock clamping force in the pressure plate.

 

I drive fairly spiritedly and just traded my 06 g35 MT in with 90K miles on it. Never had one issue with it and the clutch was still going strong. I would'nt stress about it.