For the love of god...
09-03-2010, 10:55 PM
#1
For the love of god...
2008 G37S Coupe
55,857 miles
I just dropped the car off at Fields Infiniti for the exact same issue that has plagued this car since 34,000ish miles. "P0300" code or "CYLINDER MISFIRE CODE"
This is now the 5th time the car has been in service for this issue. I'm at a complete loss as to what to do or who to talk to about how mad I am especially because I plan on buying this car at the end of my lease in 10 months.
What has been done so far:
1st attempt - Dealer tried to blame me for the code being thrown due to me not changing/monitoring my oil because apparently, "it's normal for this car to consume 1qt every 3,000 miles"
2nd attempt - Switched dealers, went to Fields. This time they researched the code and figured it was a bank of bad sensors that needed to be cleaned. Code cleared, didn't return for about 2 weeks.
3rd attempt - Bank of sensors replaced. Code cleared.
4th attempt - Entire cam system including VVEL sensors/motor replaced. Car put on Ester Oil for 3,250 miles.
5th attempt (today) - Weather dips about 25 degrees here in Chicago. Go to start the car, check engine light pops up and the car's idle sticks around 1,100-1,200 (new symptom)
So what should I do? From my understanding, the California lemon law only covers a car if it's within 18 months or 18,000 miles... whichever comes first. But to be honest, I don't want a new car... I know how this car has been treated and I know it's nature.
Should consumers affairs be called? What can they do to compensate me? What have YOU personally been given or have heard from people filing complaint claims with consumer affairs? What else can be done? I'm in a brand new, pearl white G37x loaner until Tuesday of next week.
Thanks for helping guys. I'm pissed obviously and just want my car to be working like it should after so many attempts.
55,857 miles
I just dropped the car off at Fields Infiniti for the exact same issue that has plagued this car since 34,000ish miles. "P0300" code or "CYLINDER MISFIRE CODE"
This is now the 5th time the car has been in service for this issue. I'm at a complete loss as to what to do or who to talk to about how mad I am especially because I plan on buying this car at the end of my lease in 10 months.
What has been done so far:
1st attempt - Dealer tried to blame me for the code being thrown due to me not changing/monitoring my oil because apparently, "it's normal for this car to consume 1qt every 3,000 miles"
2nd attempt - Switched dealers, went to Fields. This time they researched the code and figured it was a bank of bad sensors that needed to be cleaned. Code cleared, didn't return for about 2 weeks.
3rd attempt - Bank of sensors replaced. Code cleared.
4th attempt - Entire cam system including VVEL sensors/motor replaced. Car put on Ester Oil for 3,250 miles.
5th attempt (today) - Weather dips about 25 degrees here in Chicago. Go to start the car, check engine light pops up and the car's idle sticks around 1,100-1,200 (new symptom)
So what should I do? From my understanding, the California lemon law only covers a car if it's within 18 months or 18,000 miles... whichever comes first. But to be honest, I don't want a new car... I know how this car has been treated and I know it's nature.
Should consumers affairs be called? What can they do to compensate me? What have YOU personally been given or have heard from people filing complaint claims with consumer affairs? What else can be done? I'm in a brand new, pearl white G37x loaner until Tuesday of next week.
Thanks for helping guys. I'm pissed obviously and just want my car to be working like it should after so many attempts.
Last edited by PureNick; 09-03-2010 at 11:02 PM.
09-03-2010, 11:07 PM
#3
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 91
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Someone needs to do a cylinder leak down test for starters as it might be a piston going bad, rings shot, broken ring or valve not seating etc... They need to trace it down to which cylinder and go from there.
Po300 just points them in a direction, it wont tell them exactly where or what it is.
They all think ester oil is gonna fix any problem that comes up with these engines.
Dump a bottle of Techron in the gas and see what happens as it will really clean up injectors and valve seats. It might be as simple as some crap on the valve seat and everyone once i na while causing the problem.
Pull the plugs (has anyone done this yet?) and see what they look like and maybe 1 will show which cylinder is messed up or a plug has gone bad. It might not be anything electrical and something mechanical wrong tripping the code eventually. It could be loose plug wire as well.
Po300 just points them in a direction, it wont tell them exactly where or what it is.
They all think ester oil is gonna fix any problem that comes up with these engines.
Dump a bottle of Techron in the gas and see what happens as it will really clean up injectors and valve seats. It might be as simple as some crap on the valve seat and everyone once i na while causing the problem.
Pull the plugs (has anyone done this yet?) and see what they look like and maybe 1 will show which cylinder is messed up or a plug has gone bad. It might not be anything electrical and something mechanical wrong tripping the code eventually. It could be loose plug wire as well.
Last edited by briann510; 09-04-2010 at 12:32 PM.
09-03-2010, 11:13 PM
#4
Banned
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 426
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
damn that sux. what i would do is drive this pos into the ground, and just walk away after the lease and try again with a 2011. maybe whatever issue you have has been worked out.
i'm also thinking about buying after the lease.. but that's only if I don't encounter any engine issues. once engine gremlins start up you'll probably never solve these problems especially after all your previous attempts.
i just realized you will put over 70k miles on your car before the lease is up (assuming you keep adding miles as you have been.) i guess at this point you have to buy out unless you want to pay the $$$ for all those extra miles...
keep us posted it's pretty ****ty a sub 60k mile engine has "misfire" codes.
i'm also thinking about buying after the lease.. but that's only if I don't encounter any engine issues. once engine gremlins start up you'll probably never solve these problems especially after all your previous attempts.
i just realized you will put over 70k miles on your car before the lease is up (assuming you keep adding miles as you have been.) i guess at this point you have to buy out unless you want to pay the $$$ for all those extra miles...
keep us posted it's pretty ****ty a sub 60k mile engine has "misfire" codes.
09-03-2010, 11:33 PM
#5
You should have lemon'd it when the issue came back the 4th time. Yes, you have only 10 months but why not recoup those 10 months in monetary value instead of driving an unreliable car for 10 more months? Get yourself into another Infiniti or some other car, the choice is yours. It's the law.
Illinois Attorney General - Lemon Law
Illinois Attorney General - Lemon Law
09-04-2010, 12:17 PM
#6
briann510, thank you. I will be sure to run that past them as I was almost positive some of things you have mentioned might be the case. I haven't read too much in to it, but DO these motors have a reputation of misfires and/or bad cylinders?
Also tag824, while I'm currently in Illinois... this car is registered in California so I'm pretty sure I need to go by their laws.
Also tag824, while I'm currently in Illinois... this car is registered in California so I'm pretty sure I need to go by their laws.
09-04-2010, 12:54 PM
#7
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 91
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It might never be found whats causing it as well. Just depends how much money you have to have someone getting to the bottom of it.
Its probably a intermittent problem and not doing it all the time but sets the code non the less.
First time it threw the code do you remember anything weird going on the past 50 miles or so like heavy rain, steam cleaned the engine compartment, over revved. missed a shift, was it tuned up? Most of the PO300 codes I encountered when tracking them down was a bad wire, plug or some sensor (maybe oxygen sensor or wiring to one of them. Check vacuum, look for vacuum leaks, exhaust blockage, fuel pressure consistency, O2 sensors... clean the electrical connectors of the cam sensor and crank sensor and the main ECU of engine oil and click them back together dry. Plugs/wires. My wife ran over a tire retread and pulled the plug and wires out of the right o2 sensor on her G37s).
So does the car actually run bad? Can you feel the miss? Has mpg dropped significantly? I see it had high idle when temps were 25 degrees out so im thinking something in the tune went whacko or sensor somewhere.
Good luck on this as its gonna be time consuming but a dealer is the one with all the scan tool needed to further track it down.
They have smog stations in state you are in now? If so go throw it on and see if it passes emissions and if not see whats way off.
Now what was their comment on uses 1 qt oil every 3K miles? How low was it? A misfire code isnt going to be thrown because your oil was dirty or low (unless it was 3+ qts low but still wouldnt do a misfire code but a different one). What a crock they even said that to you.
Its probably a intermittent problem and not doing it all the time but sets the code non the less.
First time it threw the code do you remember anything weird going on the past 50 miles or so like heavy rain, steam cleaned the engine compartment, over revved. missed a shift, was it tuned up? Most of the PO300 codes I encountered when tracking them down was a bad wire, plug or some sensor (maybe oxygen sensor or wiring to one of them. Check vacuum, look for vacuum leaks, exhaust blockage, fuel pressure consistency, O2 sensors... clean the electrical connectors of the cam sensor and crank sensor and the main ECU of engine oil and click them back together dry. Plugs/wires. My wife ran over a tire retread and pulled the plug and wires out of the right o2 sensor on her G37s).
So does the car actually run bad? Can you feel the miss? Has mpg dropped significantly? I see it had high idle when temps were 25 degrees out so im thinking something in the tune went whacko or sensor somewhere.
Good luck on this as its gonna be time consuming but a dealer is the one with all the scan tool needed to further track it down.
They have smog stations in state you are in now? If so go throw it on and see if it passes emissions and if not see whats way off.
Now what was their comment on uses 1 qt oil every 3K miles? How low was it? A misfire code isnt going to be thrown because your oil was dirty or low (unless it was 3+ qts low but still wouldnt do a misfire code but a different one). What a crock they even said that to you.
Last edited by briann510; 09-04-2010 at 01:18 PM.
Trending Topics
09-05-2010, 02:27 AM
#8
It might never be found whats causing it as well. Just depends how much money you have to have someone getting to the bottom of it.
Its probably a intermittent problem and not doing it all the time but sets the code non the less.
First time it threw the code do you remember anything weird going on the past 50 miles or so like heavy rain, steam cleaned the engine compartment, over revved. missed a shift, was it tuned up? Most of the PO300 codes I encountered when tracking them down was a bad wire, plug or some sensor (maybe oxygen sensor or wiring to one of them. Check vacuum, look for vacuum leaks, exhaust blockage, fuel pressure consistency, O2 sensors... clean the electrical connectors of the cam sensor and crank sensor and the main ECU of engine oil and click them back together dry. Plugs/wires. My wife ran over a tire retread and pulled the plug and wires out of the right o2 sensor on her G37s).
So does the car actually run bad? Can you feel the miss? Has mpg dropped significantly? I see it had high idle when temps were 25 degrees out so im thinking something in the tune went whacko or sensor somewhere.
Good luck on this as its gonna be time consuming but a dealer is the one with all the scan tool needed to further track it down.
They have smog stations in state you are in now? If so go throw it on and see if it passes emissions and if not see whats way off.
Now what was their comment on uses 1 qt oil every 3K miles? How low was it? A misfire code isnt going to be thrown because your oil was dirty or low (unless it was 3+ qts low but still wouldnt do a misfire code but a different one). What a crock they even said that to you.
Its probably a intermittent problem and not doing it all the time but sets the code non the less.
First time it threw the code do you remember anything weird going on the past 50 miles or so like heavy rain, steam cleaned the engine compartment, over revved. missed a shift, was it tuned up? Most of the PO300 codes I encountered when tracking them down was a bad wire, plug or some sensor (maybe oxygen sensor or wiring to one of them. Check vacuum, look for vacuum leaks, exhaust blockage, fuel pressure consistency, O2 sensors... clean the electrical connectors of the cam sensor and crank sensor and the main ECU of engine oil and click them back together dry. Plugs/wires. My wife ran over a tire retread and pulled the plug and wires out of the right o2 sensor on her G37s).
So does the car actually run bad? Can you feel the miss? Has mpg dropped significantly? I see it had high idle when temps were 25 degrees out so im thinking something in the tune went whacko or sensor somewhere.
Good luck on this as its gonna be time consuming but a dealer is the one with all the scan tool needed to further track it down.
They have smog stations in state you are in now? If so go throw it on and see if it passes emissions and if not see whats way off.
Now what was their comment on uses 1 qt oil every 3K miles? How low was it? A misfire code isnt going to be thrown because your oil was dirty or low (unless it was 3+ qts low but still wouldnt do a misfire code but a different one). What a crock they even said that to you.
I really do appreciate your concern for this matter. I am putting together a large check list for this dealer to go over with me that includes a lot of the items you're mentioning because clearly what they're doing as well as the service tech from Infiniti's support line is not working.
The ONLY difference I can see this time is that the car is idling around 1100rpms rather than the 700-800 when normal. The car was sitting on my driveway overnight in which there was a 25 degree temp drop from the day before as well as heavy rain and a decent blast of wind. Come to think of it... all the previous times were also under weather changing periods. Some not as drastic as the other day (85 to 65) but still.
09-05-2010, 02:50 AM
#9
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 91
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The Infinity dealer should have the necessary equipment to really track this down I would think BUT its not easy sometimes. I threw all those things out there to check, but the dealer may not want to do some of them. By now though someone should have had a better answer for you. I mean it could be something stupid like a cracked vacuum hose or pinched wire in a harnesss somewhere to a sensor.
I had a P0300 code last year on a car that took me about a week to track down and it was a friggin plug with a cracked porcelain that every once in a while was shorting and another one a loose plug wire and yet another a loose exhaust clamp was rattling and sensors picking it up and causing a misfire. Like I said it sounds like the techs give up after a while and just reset the code and send you on your way.
Were the spark plugs changed before all this started?
Do a Google search on the code and read up on some of the answers on what caused them. You might be able to open your hood and check some things yourself as well. Unfortunately there are many causes...
I had a P0300 code last year on a car that took me about a week to track down and it was a friggin plug with a cracked porcelain that every once in a while was shorting and another one a loose plug wire and yet another a loose exhaust clamp was rattling and sensors picking it up and causing a misfire. Like I said it sounds like the techs give up after a while and just reset the code and send you on your way.
Were the spark plugs changed before all this started?
Do a Google search on the code and read up on some of the answers on what caused them. You might be able to open your hood and check some things yourself as well. Unfortunately there are many causes...
Last edited by briann510; 09-05-2010 at 04:02 AM.
09-05-2010, 03:29 PM
#10
Brian,
Thanks again. Noted again. Do you think now, with everything I've told you on how the car is running and what has happened, that there is a cylinder that is going bad OR that it's just a touchy sensor going off/going bad or is loose?
Thanks again. Noted again. Do you think now, with everything I've told you on how the car is running and what has happened, that there is a cylinder that is going bad OR that it's just a touchy sensor going off/going bad or is loose?
09-05-2010, 11:08 PM
#12
MPG has been nearly the exact same. My driving style is spirited but involves a lot of highway mileage. The idle, even at the higher point since the light came on, is steady and smooth.
Gas is 93 Octane bought from a busy BP gas station down the street from me so I know the gas is fresh... especially knowing a lot of cars around here are luxury sport cars that require the 91 or higher gas.
Would having dirty air filters cause this light to be thrown?
Gas is 93 Octane bought from a busy BP gas station down the street from me so I know the gas is fresh... especially knowing a lot of cars around here are luxury sport cars that require the 91 or higher gas.
Would having dirty air filters cause this light to be thrown?
09-06-2010, 12:02 AM
#13
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 91
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
You have Chevron stations where you live? Try using Chevron for a while and see if anything changes, but before anything dump a bottle of Techron in the tank. Dirty air filters wont cause it unless they are totally clogged or water soaked. If they are dirty the computer adjusts for reduced airflow and less air available and not a big deal.
I think if car is running good and mpg still ok then its a momentary condition thats throwing the code and light. Id be curious though if the car were put on rollers for a smog test how the numbers would look for exhaust. An oxygen sensor going bad could cause all of this as well but that usually throws another code as well.
Cam timing would be my next thought but I think you said that was checked and some things replaced already. Id defiantly have someone pull the plugs and look at them and that should have been done very first check ant dealer I would think. Plugs can tell alot of whats going on in an engine right away.
I still think its probably a coil/spark plug/wire problem. I just read a coupel threads over on another forum and the guy tried everything in the book for his misfire code and finally reset the ECU and did a idle/throttle body relearn I think he said. He said it runs ok now and hes out of ideas to go any further.
I think if car is running good and mpg still ok then its a momentary condition thats throwing the code and light. Id be curious though if the car were put on rollers for a smog test how the numbers would look for exhaust. An oxygen sensor going bad could cause all of this as well but that usually throws another code as well.
Cam timing would be my next thought but I think you said that was checked and some things replaced already. Id defiantly have someone pull the plugs and look at them and that should have been done very first check ant dealer I would think. Plugs can tell alot of whats going on in an engine right away.
I still think its probably a coil/spark plug/wire problem. I just read a coupel threads over on another forum and the guy tried everything in the book for his misfire code and finally reset the ECU and did a idle/throttle body relearn I think he said. He said it runs ok now and hes out of ideas to go any further.
Last edited by briann510; 09-06-2010 at 12:12 AM.
09-09-2010, 03:57 AM
#14
Brian,
I went in on Tuesday morning to the dealership to speak with a service adviser there directly to see what is going to be done and what he may think the issue is.
I wasn't expecting to get far and that's exactly what happened... the only response I got from him was that "it sounds like an air/fuel delivery problem." He then mentioned something about the throttle body (uhh?) but then quickly threw out the "...but I won't know until a tech looks at it."
I was curious how things were going so I drove through the dealership about an hour ago and saw my car inside with a good chunk of the motor out. I think I'll give them a call tomorrow to get an official update.
I went in on Tuesday morning to the dealership to speak with a service adviser there directly to see what is going to be done and what he may think the issue is.
I wasn't expecting to get far and that's exactly what happened... the only response I got from him was that "it sounds like an air/fuel delivery problem." He then mentioned something about the throttle body (uhh?) but then quickly threw out the "...but I won't know until a tech looks at it."
I was curious how things were going so I drove through the dealership about an hour ago and saw my car inside with a good chunk of the motor out. I think I'll give them a call tomorrow to get an official update.
09-09-2010, 07:06 AM
#15
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 91
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ive kinda been thinking all along it might be a fuel problem and why I suggested dumping a bottle of Techron in to clean out the injectors. Most misfires are spark/fuel/air related usually. Doesnt suprise me in the service writers response as he has to wait for tech to hook it up and start diagnosing....
Keep us posted...
Keep us posted...