G37 convertible "roof in operation" sensor
G37 convertible "roof in operation" sensor
What's up fellow Gs and Vert owners, I'm praying that someone here can help me. I have a 2010 Infiniti G37 Convertible that is basically a cleaner-looking coupe now. I have had issues with my roof for a while now but I've come to terms with it, as long as it works. I have had two "convertible re-learns" over at Nissan now due to malfunctions with the roof not fully closing/ being misaligned. The most recent time I got it back they were able to do the "re-learn" and it fully closed but when I drove it had the constant ring along with the "roof in operation" code. My motor is most likely shot they told me. And I can see the rear flap behind the seats is not fully elevated, so that's why I'm getting that. The Roof button does nothing as of right now. My main question today is if ANYONE knows the location of that damn sensor/ beep so I can take that **** out. I don't mind having the "coupe" until I have the money to get it fixed but the thing is, for now, I unplug one of the fuses near the battery labeled "ROOF CNTRL" and then I can drive without a constant flash bang noise in my ears. The thing is when I do that I cannot use the trunk, rear windows, and the "lock/ unlock " button for the doors. I love the pillarless window look and always prefer the windows to be down when I cruise. I usually tune out the beeping but it gets annoying after a while or at night when I do not want the music too loud. Every Vert owner should know about the beep. it sounds like it is coming from the rear driver side but I want to know exactly where it is so I won't go tearing everything up. Also, would this be in one of the OEM manuals from Infiniti? I have them all. Thanks, guys
You should be able to disconnect the "beeper box" to, at least, shut that noise up. This will have no effect on the warning lamp (on the cluster) and you should still be able to use the trunk/ windows, etc. as you are not disconnecting the control unit- just the "beeper."
Looking at the FSM's the beeper module is behind the driver-side interior trim- likely near where the seat belt is mounted. Once you remove the panel, look for a small black box with a BROWN wiring connector. The M87 connector will have two (2) wires, one (1) RED and one (1) BLACK.
Again, this will only stop the beeping- not any warning lights on the cluster.
Looking at the FSM's the beeper module is behind the driver-side interior trim- likely near where the seat belt is mounted. Once you remove the panel, look for a small black box with a BROWN wiring connector. The M87 connector will have two (2) wires, one (1) RED and one (1) BLACK.
Again, this will only stop the beeping- not any warning lights on the cluster.
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This video shows how to take the rear inside quarter panels off.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lb3p4I7A-LI
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lb3p4I7A-LI
I was able to get mine closed using CONSULT-III plus Diagnostic Software by jogging it a little bit at a time with a helper lifting it to prevent it from sagging back down. Since it has been closed, my G37 is driveable and have not tried to open the top again. The software has since stopped working.
DO NOT BUY from https://www.obdii.shop they sold me the CONSULT-III plus Diagnostic Software, OBDII adapter, and laptop. I paid US $521.05. Initially their website said it was compatible with Infiniti, but while I was talking to their tech support complaining about my problems, they updated their website removing the mention that it supports Infiniti. Said it only works for Nissan.
DO NOT BUY from https://www.obdii.shop they sold me the CONSULT-III plus Diagnostic Software, OBDII adapter, and laptop. I paid US $521.05. Initially their website said it was compatible with Infiniti, but while I was talking to their tech support complaining about my problems, they updated their website removing the mention that it supports Infiniti. Said it only works for Nissan.
Consult III is Nissan software. Infiniti is made by Nissan. It works for Infiniti.
I believe there are some connection settings that need to be adjusted for your car to be properly recognized.
I no longer have the car and cannot show the specifics, but a few other members ran into the same issue.
I believe there are some connection settings that need to be adjusted for your car to be properly recognized.
I no longer have the car and cannot show the specifics, but a few other members ran into the same issue.
Specifically, which fuse did you pull? The 50 or the 30? I had the same issue, brought it to the dealership, they were able to get the roof to close except for the parcel shelf, and of course, I had the annoying beeping sound because the roof wasn't fully closed. I asked the tech to disable the roof to get rid of the sound. I don't know what he did, but it was behind the rear seat, and since then my rear windows, inside door lock switch and trunk release do mot work. I looked in the fuse box by the battery, both fuses for the top are there. How can I tell if one of them is bad?
Folks - I have fixed this as well. For reference, the noise comes from the roof control module located behind the drivers seat - in the drivers side panel of the passenger seat. As mentioned by ILM, use Klaus's video to guide you on the disassembly. You will need to take out the back seat (back and bottom cushion) since the panel is recessed behind the edges - not as hard as it sounds. I needed to remove the 12MM bolts for the seat belts in order to maneuver the cushion out of the vehicle. Once you clear that out, use a panel tool to separate the panel from the frame - there are two plastic rivets that double as the support for the optional piece that allows you to stow stuff in the back seat and not have it blow all over when the top is down. Behind one of the rivets is a 10mm bolt - the other is just a rivet.
When looking at the module, you will notice(as ILM pointed out) that there are brown connectors that need to be removed for the noise. However, they are in a VERY tight location. I removed the bracket holding the module (2 - 10mm bolts) in order to twist the module to get to the connectors - viola!
BTW, don't mess with the plastic panel on the frame with the gooey adhesive - that is to protect the rear window actuator motor - leave it's white(small) connector attached. Be cautious since that goo doesn't come off easy.
Lastly, due to this non-trivial exercise, I don't think this is a viable long-term solution unless you are comfortable declaring your vehicle a coupe forever. Based on the age, something is amiss with the hydraulic system - which is only expected to operate cleanly for the first 10 years. Everything described above is also necessary to DIY a hydraulic system rebuild. Look at the videos from Klaus (Top Hydraulics) to see if you want to embark on this journey.
When looking at the module, you will notice(as ILM pointed out) that there are brown connectors that need to be removed for the noise. However, they are in a VERY tight location. I removed the bracket holding the module (2 - 10mm bolts) in order to twist the module to get to the connectors - viola!
BTW, don't mess with the plastic panel on the frame with the gooey adhesive - that is to protect the rear window actuator motor - leave it's white(small) connector attached. Be cautious since that goo doesn't come off easy.
Lastly, due to this non-trivial exercise, I don't think this is a viable long-term solution unless you are comfortable declaring your vehicle a coupe forever. Based on the age, something is amiss with the hydraulic system - which is only expected to operate cleanly for the first 10 years. Everything described above is also necessary to DIY a hydraulic system rebuild. Look at the videos from Klaus (Top Hydraulics) to see if you want to embark on this journey.
The Infiniti tech that worked on my vert didn't remove the panel behind the driver seat. He did remove the back seat and did something there. I removed the back seat the following weekend to see if he simply unplugged something, but everything was as it should be. In any case, I am still trying to figure out how to reverse what he did so I can get the door locks, rear windows and trunk release operational. I recently purchased a Topdon 900 BT ODB II diagnostic tool that contains the ability to cycle the vert roof. I am going to see what codes it throws initially (if any) and see if there is something there that can re-enable whatever the tech turned off.







